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» The Letterville BullBoard » Old Archives » Painting concrete

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Author Topic: Painting concrete
Dave Sherby
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Member # 698

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I just installed a sign for a new customer. The removal of the old sign, which was 24 ft wide and 4 feet high, revealed an inset area of concrete surrounded by a frame of slightly protruding brick. The rest of the building is also brick. Well since the new sign is only 16 feet long, and 39 inches high, two feet of concrete on either end and a 4 inch strip across the top are visible and not very attractive. My customer and I decided that the least expensive way out was to paint the concrete to look like the rest of the brick.

SO.... what would you recommend for paint? It would be easier for me to match the colors by mixing One Shot. On the other hand, I painted the concrete block basement area of my house in 1978 with Sears concrete paint and 80% of it still looks great.

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Dave Sherby
"Sandman"
SherWood Sign & Graphic Design
Crystal Falls, MI 49920
906-875-6201
ICQ: 21604027
sherwood@up.net


Posts: 5430 | From: Argyle, TX | Registered: Apr 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Tony McDonald
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Hi Dave,
This isn't going to help you much because it was an inside job but the basement of my first house was poured concrete using those brick textured forms. I took a brush with black paint down in all the cracks and then came back with a roller and I think the color was "tile red" which I'm pretty sure came from Wal-Mart. It looked good for as long as I was there (about 9 years) I would think as long as the concrete was clean (maybe pressure washed) that there wouldn't be any problem with the sears paint.

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When good things happen...that must be a sign!!
Tony McDonald
DBA-Ace Graphics & Printing
P.O. Box 91
Camdenton, MO. USA
(573) 346-6696
<daddyo@advertisnet.com>
<tony@brownbeverage.com>


Posts: 1199 | From: Camdenton, MO. USA | Registered: Oct 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Kent Smith
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Member # 251

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If you want to use enamels, simply pre prime the area with high performance acrylic primer to seal the area from alkali migration. My favorate of course is Chromatic Universal 1008 waterborne.

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Kent Smith
Smith Sign Studio
Greeley, Colorado, USA
kent@smithsignstudio.com


Posts: 1025 | From: Estes Park, CO | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Dana Aaron
unregistered


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Hey Dave!!

Just before I left Nevis, the guys were getting into the poured walls and textured floors.

They make a paintable dye specifically for 'outdoor' concrete to make it look like real stone, brick, etc.

Maybe call a local mason to get the details on it. I know the stuff I saw before I left was pretty impressive.

Good luck!

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Dana Aaron
docs-gal on chat
www.sign-a-saurus.bigstep.com

Whatever happened to Preparations A through G?


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Dave Draper
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Member # 102

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Dave,

Why does the concrete need to look like brick? Can't it be painted with a contrasting color to look like a border frame around the new sign?

I guess I would have to see it. Hind sight is always 20/20

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Draper The Signmaker
Bloomington Illinois USA

Be Sure to Check Out My Next Article On "Sign Shop Photography" in the March Issue of Sign Builder Illustrated!
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Posts: 2883 | From: Bloomington Illinois USA | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Dave Sherby
Resident


Member # 698

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Dave, the concreted area sticks out beyond the ends of the sign about two feet at either end, and only a few inches at the top. In fact, you only see the top area from the other side of the street. I would definatly just paint the concrete a solid color to frame the sign if it showed on all four sides. Besides, the sign has an arc top and shaped ends whereas the concrete area is a simple rectangle which looks like it was a recessed area for a sign when the building was built. How short sighted to make that a permanent part of the building.

One more thing for any future replies.
I mentioned the Sears concrete paint simply because of how long it lasted on my own house. I would much rather use One Shot because I have all the colors to make good color matchs. The building is old rustic reddish brown brick with lots of almost black spots and it faces south.

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Dave Sherby
"Sandman"
SherWood Sign & Graphic Design
Crystal Falls, MI 49920
906-875-6201
ICQ: 21604027
sherwood@up.net


Posts: 5430 | From: Argyle, TX | Registered: Apr 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Monte Jumper
Resident


Member # 1106

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I'm with Draper...find a "filler for each end then tie it all together top and bottom ...make it lok like it belongs there...tmaybe a pic would help ...got one?

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Monte Jumper
SIGNLanguage/Norman.Okla.


Posts: 3185 | From: Norman,Okla.U.S.A. | Registered: Sep 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
   

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