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» The Letterville BullBoard » Old Archives » How would you create an 'antique' pub sign?

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Author Topic: How would you create an 'antique' pub sign?
Marty Happy
Resident


Member # 302

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Hi Lettervillians:

I have recently been contracted to construct an aged, antique-looking two-sided projecting hanging wood pub sign. Being a real stickler for detail and perfection in previous efforts this is going to pose quite a challenge to me. I am likely going to use rough-grained thin plywood as the logo lends itself well to layered construction, probably 5-6 layers on each side. Sandblasting is out! I have done some research in the sign mags for some ideas and welcome all ideas and thoughts as to techniques, materials and finishes.

Thanks and Happy Signing.....Marty

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Marty Happy
Signmaker Since 1974
Happy Ad Sign & Design
Regina SK, Canada S4N 5K4

306.789.9567
e-mail: happyad@sk.sympatico.ca
website: www.happyad.ca

Get Happy & Get Noticed!

[This message has been edited by Marty Happy (edited February 17, 2001).]


Posts: 773 | From: Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada | Registered: Jan 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
cheryl nordby
Visitor
Member # 1100

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Hey Marty.....ask Mike Languein. I have seen his antique looking signs....they are great! calling Mikey.........calling Mr. Languein!

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surf or MoJo on mirc
Cheryl J Nordby
Signs by Cheryl
(206) 300-0153
Seattle WA.....!
signsbycheryl@hotmail.com
A day without sunshine is like, you know...night http://signsbycheryl.homestead.com/home.html
http://mojosignco.homestead.com/home.html



Posts: 3729 | From: Seattle | Registered: Sep 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Cam Bortz
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Member # 55

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Hi Marty
This post is right up my alley! I've done dozens of faux antique pieces, and they are fun.

The main thing here is authenticity, and for that, I have to advise you forget plywood. As a commonly-used material it's only been around 60-70 years. Get yourself some rough-cut pine or other quarter-sawn wood, in various widths; if it has loose or missing knots, even better! Build your signboard with battens - narrow strips of wood or metal - across the grain to hold the planks together. Before you assemble your panel, distress the edges of the planks to chip and splinter the edges, and you can hit them on the grain end with a hatchet to create authentic-looking end-grain checking.

After your panel is assembled, its painting time. Use a flat oil-based poster paint or Japan color (gloss finishes are just wrong for antique signs). Don't prime the wood - you want the color to soak in, like stain - then when dry, scuff with sandpaper to knock paint off the high spots. If your background color is light, mix a greenish-brown stain and get it into seams and edges, to look like dirt and mildew. Mess with it til it looks like its been leaning against the back of a barn for thirty of forty years. When you letter, again, thin your paint too much - you want it to look faded - and don't use any kind of "contemporary" typeface. Scuff your lettering again, to look old and faded. If it's a hanging sign, use rusty screws and fasteners, and paint rust stains on the face with a mixture of red and black or dark green.

These can be so much fun to do, and you can be very creative with your treatments. Don't be too careful with it, the idea is to beat the bejesus out of it so it looks old and funky.

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"A wise man concerns himself with the truth, not with what people believe." - Aristotle

When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Raoul Duke (Hunter S. Thompson)

Cam
Finest Kind Signs
256 S. Broad St.
Pawcatuck, Ct. 06379
"Award winning Signs since 1988"


Posts: 3051 | From: Pawcatuck,Connecticut USA | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Monte Jumper
Resident


Member # 1106

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I'm not going to be of any help here but it is humerous to me that only the Canadians and Americans would want an antique looking pub sign...ther oldest Pubs in all of Ireland had either brand new or extremely well maintained signs.

If you want to see the best Ireland has to offer go here...http://www.letterhead.com/meets/cork99/index.html

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Monte Jumper
SIGNLanguage/Norman.Okla.


Posts: 3185 | From: Norman,Okla.U.S.A. | Registered: Sep 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Dave Grundy
Resident


Member # 103

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Marty..to add to what Cam said....If there is a store/lumber yard near you that specializes in selling to farmers they will have rough cut barn board. It would be ideal for what you want to do...AND it is really inexpensive.

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Dave Grundy
AKA "applicator" on mIRC
"stickin' sticky stuff to valuable vessels and vehicles!"
in Granton, Ontario, Canada
1-519-225-2634
dave.grundy@quadro.net
www.quadro.net/~shirley



Posts: 8899 | From: Chelem, Yucatan, Mexico/Hensall, Ontario, Canada | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Deb Fowler
Resident


Member # 1039

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Great idea, Dave!

I used to by old barn wood from a man who tore down barns. He was in his eighties! He finally bought a planer. Before that, I bought it, knowing it was solid oak, but one or two of the pieces turned out to be rotten inside. It is good to check it well. Other
than that those old barns are worth their weight in gold. I used the wood for everything from birdhouses and signs to benches and shelving, paneling and crafts.

have fun!
I also love those antique labels on bottles and cans. They have a lot of interesting flourishes.

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Deb
Creative Signs


Posts: 5373 | From: Loves Park, Illinois | Registered: Aug 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Deb Fowler
Resident


Member # 1039

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oops BUY not by.

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Deb
Creative Signs


Posts: 5373 | From: Loves Park, Illinois | Registered: Aug 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Dave Hodge
Visitor
Member # 1415

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Hi Marti
I agree with Cam, go for old timber. you can still build it up.
We do a lot of this type of signage for an emporium called bygone times.
we use rough timber then acrylic primer and colour.
I use Deka for the lettering . The main thing with this type of sign is not to fill the grain up with 'runny' paint, let your paint lie where it touches the raised parts of the grain, (like a dry brush effect )
you can then dab a few suitable colours into the lettering to make it appear that paint from underneath is showing through.
I tend to use dark traditional colours for backgrounds with white or gold lettering. I then add suitable outlines, shades etc.
Finally I brush a light wood stain over the whole lot and stipple it to dull down the lettering.When it is dry rub over with sandpaper to let bits of lighter lettering show through. if needs be give it a bit of protection with a matt acrylic varnish (clearcoat) and voila a genuine antique sign made yesterday.
I agree with monte Jumper as regards pub signs in the UK. I know that the customer is always right!!
but I prefer gleaming old type signs done as if they had just come out of a signshop in a bygone age. I think if I was a customer walking past your client's pub , I'd think tatty old sign outside - It's going to be tatty inside and give it a miss.
The signs we do for the sign emporium I mentioned are 'inside' and are for sale to collectors. Outside their signage is gleaming well maintained 'old'

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Goldenmahl
Dave Hodge's Traditional Signs. Preston, England.
01772 743352
GOLDENMAHLDAVE@aol.com


[This message has been edited by Dave Hodge (edited February 18, 2001).]


Posts: 108 | From: Preston, Lancashire, England | Registered: Mar 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Neil Riley
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Member # 383

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There's a good article in Signcraft - issue 102 - by Peter McCullen on creating faux antique signs.
I know coz I've had it laying around for some time now...waiting for me to try that "project sign" I've been meaning to do.
Good luck with yours...at least you'll be paid for it... but at least I get to keep mine!

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Neil Riley
Riley Signs
Adelaide,
South Ozzz
A "Down Under" Supporter!


Posts: 157 | From: Adelaide, South Australia | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
   

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