Letterville Bull Board Letterville | Bull Board
 


 

Front Page
A Letterhead History
About Us
Become A Resident
Edit Your Database Info
Find A Letterhead

Letterville Merchants
Resident Downloads
Letterville BookShop
Future Live Meets
Past Meets
Step-By-Steps
Past Panel Swaps
Past SOTM
Letterhead Profiles
Business Cards
Become A Merchant

Click on the button
below to chat with other
Letterville users.

http://www.letterville.com/ubb/chaticon.gif

Steve & Barb Shortreed
144 Hill St., E.
Fergus, ON, Canada
N1M 1G9

Phone: 519-787-2892
Fax: 519-787-2673
Email: barb@letterville.com

Copyright ©1995-2008
The Letterhead Website

 

 

The Letterville BullBoard   
my profile login | search | faq | calendar | im | forum home

  next oldest topic   next newest topic
» The Letterville BullBoard » Old Archives » aging or patina for copper?

 - UBBFriend: Email this page to someone!    
Author Topic: aging or patina for copper?
Rick Cooper
Visitor
Member # 375

Icon 5 posted      Profile for Rick Cooper         Edit/Delete Post 
Hi- I have a customer that wants vinyl on copper faces he is having fabricated. He wants to have an "aged" look on the copper. Have any of you done this and with what? Hopefully whatever we do will leave a suitable base (temporary indoor display) for the vinyl.
Thanks in advance!

------------------
Rick Cooper
Sierra Sign & Award
Lake Tahoe, USA
www.engrave.pctrader.com
$$$Letterheads Website Supporter$$$

"The early bird gets the worm but the second
mouse gets the cheese."


Posts: 135 | From: Incline Village, NV, USA | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Jennifer Flinchpaugh
Visitor
Member # 1412

Icon 7 posted      Profile for Jennifer Flinchpaugh   Email Jennifer Flinchpaugh       Edit/Delete Post 
Greetings!

I'm not sure about the patina vinyl for which you're looking. But if you'd like a different type of patina finish, try contacting this company, which was included a paint survey I recently conducted for our magazine:

Patina Finishes & Copper Coats Inc.
San Diego
(800) 995-9946
(619) 683-7401
Bulletin and lettering enamels: additives and specialty products, clearcoats, color topcoats, low-VOC products and primers
Paints/finishes for metals and architectural signage: additives and specialty products, clearcoats, color topcoats, low-VOC products and primers
The company offers bronze, copper, brass/gold and pewter/silver water-based coatings for all surfaces. In addition, the company offers patinas for all coatings and for natural copper, bronze, brass and steel.

Hope this information helps!

Take care and God bless,
Jennifer Flinchpaugh
Senior Associate Editor
SIGNS OF THE TIMES Magazine www.signweb.com
(800) 925-1110, ext. 304

------------------


Posts: 31 | From: Cincinnati, OH, USA | Registered: Mar 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Rick Cooper
Visitor
Member # 375

Icon 1 posted      Profile for Rick Cooper         Edit/Delete Post 
Thanks, jennifer- I'll check that stuff out. I should have been more clear though- the copper itself needs the aged or patina finish- probably some kind of acid bath or something. Then we'll apply regular HP vinyl lettering over that.

------------------
Rick Cooper
Sierra Sign & Award
Lake Tahoe, USA
www.engrave.pctrader.com
$$$Letterheads Website Supporter$$$

"The early bird gets the worm but the second
mouse gets the cheese."


Posts: 135 | From: Incline Village, NV, USA | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Mike Languein
Visitor
Member # 319

Icon 10 posted      Profile for Mike Languein         Edit/Delete Post 
If there is a Home Depot near you they carry a whole range of different aging effects in their "Decor" section, around $20 a bottle. Aaron Bros. (and probably any hobby or craft store) carry a small bottle of copper aging stuff that looks like green paint to me, I haven't used it. I mix up some blue green One Shot with some pale green & white and squirt it on with a small squirt bottle and let it drip down. Copper turns green as it oxidizes. For a temp. indoor job it's what I would use. I've made phony "stills" for props in restaurants and I spray them with copper paint and do the drip - it looks like a real, leaky old still.

------------------
"If it isn't fun, why do it?"
Signmike@aol.com


Posts: 1859 | From: / | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
stein Saether
Resident


Member # 430

Icon 1 posted      Profile for stein Saether   Email stein Saether       Edit/Delete Post 
Ammonium water solution makes copper go green instantly
Try put some vinyl on copper them floood it with ammonium and see if the vinyl still sticks, maybe you could even clear it
Copper oxide is poisenious

------------------
Stein Sæther
GullSkilt AS
Trondheim


Posts: 1183 | From: Trondheim Norway | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Si Allen
Resident


Member # 420

Icon 4 posted      Profile for Si Allen   Email Si Allen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
If I were to do this job, I would clean the copper and apply the vinyl berore doing the patina (better bond).
Most "craft stores" or Home Depot carry kits to "age" copper. You simply slobber it on and you get "instant aged copper"!
Sounds like a fun job!

------------------
Si Allen #562
La Mirada, CA. USA
(714) 521-4810
ICQ # 330407
"SignPainters do It with Longer Strokes!"

Brushasaurus on Chat



Posts: 8827 | From: La Mirada, CA, USA | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Bruce Jackson
Visitor
Member # 45

Icon 1 posted      Profile for Bruce Jackson   Author's Homepage   Email Bruce Jackson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I often use a painted finish as a solution because of it's controlability but if you want a chemical solution I suggest a book:

Hughes, R. & Rowe, M. 1992. The Colouring, Bronzing and Patination of Metals, Thames and Hudson, London. You can buy it at http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0823007626/theletterheadwebA/

THe choices are wide:
1. A simple ammonia/acid solution
2. Proprietry mix from a stained glass supplier or art/craft shop
3. If you want a particular color or effect, let me know and I'll post a recipe for it. There are MANY colors possible.

------------------
Bruce Jackson
Melbourne, Australia
home.connexus.net.au/~bruceja

[This message has been edited by Steve Shortreed (edited March 10, 2000).]


Posts: 264 | From: Melbourne, VIC, Australia | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Vance Galliher
Visitor
Member # 581

Icon 1 posted      Profile for Vance Galliher   Author's Homepage   Email Vance Galliher       Edit/Delete Post 
hi rick.......i've done several background recently using patined copper , not with vinyl but with dimensional gold leafed letters...looks great ! my solution is : 2 cups white vinegar, 4 cups ammonia, 2 tbls salt...
scuff copper with scotch pad first, then apply sloution (brush it, pour it ...get it on the surface, let it stand for awhile ..move it around with a brush let it stand some more.. wipe it off...and do it again or leave it alone...have fun and play with it !
caution !!!!.... strong aroma ( i like it, but it can get heavy so best not to spend too much time inhaling it)....

enjoy where you be....vance

------------------


Posts: 324 | From: springfield,or. | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Joe Rees
Visitor
Member # 211

Icon 1 posted      Profile for Joe Rees   Author's Homepage   Email Joe Rees   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Wow, great responses. I had to print this one out for my files.

I want to reinforce Si's advice to letter the copper BEFORE the patina. I have done enough of this to know that the green is mostly a powder that will rub right off. I've gotten paint to stick to it before after a little selective compressed air blowing, but the vinyl would never stick. You don't even want to handle this puppy after its treated cuz the green will come right off wherever its disturbed.

------------------
Joe Rees
Cape Craft Signs
(Cape Cod, MA)
http://www.capecraft.com
http://www.dave-joe-show.com
e-mail: joerees@capecraft.com


Posts: 1974 | From: Orleans, MA, Cape Cod, USA | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Bruce Jackson
Visitor
Member # 45

Icon 1 posted      Profile for Bruce Jackson   Author's Homepage   Email Bruce Jackson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Joe, you're right that the green is fragile. THis happens with many of the quickly developed patinas. It's just a superficial layer of copper nitrate.

If the verdigris is allowed to develop over a longer period, of several weeks or more. It tends to be much more robust.

Further, you can clear coat it or rub on some wax.

------------------
Bruce Jackson
Melbourne, Australia
home.connexus.net.au/~bruceja


Posts: 264 | From: Melbourne, VIC, Australia | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
   

   Close Topic   Feature Topic   Move Topic   Delete Topic next oldest topic   next newest topic
 - Printer-friendly view of this topic
Hop To:


Contact Us | Letterville. A Community Of Letterheads & Pinheads!

Powered by Infopop Corporation
UBB.classic™ 6.7.2

Search For Sign Supplies
Category:
 

                  

Letterhead Suppliers Around the World