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This is sort of a beginner question, I guess. I've had the paint on smaller Dibond panels nick on light impact, and I want to be sure my paint is going to last.
I'm doing an 8' x 10' multi-color sign painted on Dibond. other than "scuffing lightly with a Scotchbrite pad and clean with Rapid Prep" is there anything I should do to insure paint adhesion?
One person told me to mix some Frog Juice into the 1-shot (1/10) to make it "bite" better. OR, I could use the 1-shot Hardener. Any experience with either? SInce I'm doing color on color, do I need to add Hardener to the top layers of color to make them stick to the bottom layers, or just the base layer to stick to the Dibond?
Finally, is it better to cut-in the background on a complex sign, or just roller coat the background, let it dry overnight, and then paint the rest?
(if you want to see the layout, its in the Portfolio section here. )
-------------------- :: Scooter Marriner :: :: Coyote Signs :: :: Oakland, CA :: :: still a beginner :: :: Posts: 1356 | From: Oakland (and San Francisco) | Registered: Mar 2001
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Back when I use to do a lot of my signs with 1-shot, I would use a product called WilBond that was liquid sandpaper. I havn't seen it anywhere down here in the south but the stuff worked great.
-------------------- Bob Stephens Skywatch Signs Zephyrhills, FL
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Scooter, good questions as always. There is no need to 'add' anything to the One Shot Paints to make it adhere better. The mechanical abrasion should take care of that, and Rapid Prep should take care of the cleanliness required. Hardeners for One Shot do just what the name implies, it 'hardens' the paint on curing. This allows you to apply topcoats that are 'hotter' (solvent wise) in nature. Never apply straight one shot, then the next day apply one shot with hardener mixed in, this will cause you plenty of grief. I've used Frog Juice as an intermediate coat between cured One Shot and an automotive clear with good results, as I did not have the One Shot Hardener at that time.
[ December 22, 2003, 05:51 PM: Message edited by: Peter Schuttinga ]
-------------------- "Are we having fun yet?" Peter Schuttinga DZines Sign Studio 1617 Millstream rd Victoria BC V9B-6G4 Posts: 521 | From: Victoria BC | Registered: Mar 2002
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Scoot, I would be doing that one in vinyl, if I were going to use Dibond, and probably go to MDO, if I were going to paint it. Somehow the Dibond is so smooth that it looks like a brush job on a car hood to me. The MDO seems to be ok with it...... I would probably use vinyl and scuff and spraypaint the parts that I couldn't find paint to match. I would also cut the design down to about 7 or 8 colors max.... I believe the vinyl will last better than the paint also. I would definitely spray the back in one continous coat using hardener.
-------------------- "Don't change horses in midstream, unless you spot one with longer legs" bronzeo oti Jack Davis 1410 Main St Joplin, MO 64801 www.imagemakerart.com jack@imagemakerart.com Posts: 1549 | From: Joplin, MO | Registered: Mar 2000
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Hi Scooter! I know that you need to use DiBond due to the height of this installation. MDO would be so heavy, and I hate that stuff anyway. The background always seems to break down before the lettering does when I see it on other signs. I never use it. Is Alumalite just like DiBond? (an aluminum/coroplast sandwich)I use it all the time. Be careful about layering 1-Shot...on the overlaps you might get orange peel. I am no chemist, so I can't tell ya what to mix. As around in herelike yer doing. But I sure as hell would paint this sucka, nobody will be able to see the brush strokes if it's up as high as you said in the portfolio page. (I think they enhance a sign, BTW) And it would be SO much cheaper, less frustrating, and good for your soul than dat demon vinyl. Make sure to mix up extra paint from all those blends you're doing, save it in baby-food jars or plastic prescription bottles or some such. That way in case it does scratch, you can just touch it up. Good Luck. Love- JILL
-------------------- That is like a Mr. Potato Head with all the pieces in the wrong place. -Russ McMullin Posts: 8834 | From: Butler, PA, USA | Registered: Jan 2001
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I was told to wipe the surface lightly with a little bit of acetone before applying the paint. This removes the gloss and gives the surface something to "bite" to. I've been doing this for 4 years and it seems to work well.
I have noticed that it scratches fairly easily in the first couple of days, but once it hardens up, it is really durable.
I'm interested in what people will tell you with the "roll out or cut-in method of painting". Thats something I always wonder too.
I'd love to see a pic when it is done.
Suelynn
-------------------- "It is never too late to be what you might have been." -George Eliot
Suelynn Sedor Sedor Signs Carnduff, SK Canada Posts: 2863 | From: Carnduff, SK Canada | Registered: Nov 1998
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Jack, this is the first time anybody ever told me vinyl would outlast paint. And I find it hard to believe painted MDO would outlast painted Dibond.
Maybe I just need to wait a few days for a full cure to avoid the nick and scratch problem, as Suelynn says.
Jill, there aren't any blends on this baby -- its just solid colors, straight from the can. (this customer has so many different little signs that i didn't want to have to try to re-match anything in a year or two, so i'm using just standard 1-shot colors, and a few vinyls for smaller jobs that sort of match the 1-shot colors).
-------------------- :: Scooter Marriner :: :: Coyote Signs :: :: Oakland, CA :: :: still a beginner :: :: Posts: 1356 | From: Oakland (and San Francisco) | Registered: Mar 2001
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