I've got some sandblasted cedar signs on the go, and thought I'd leave some of the natural wood showing. My supplier recommended Sign Life clear to protect the raw wood.
Anyone use this stuff, and what do you think of it?
Suelynn
-------------------- "It is never too late to be what you might have been." -George Eliot
Suelynn Sedor Sedor Signs Carnduff, SK Canada Posts: 2863 | From: Carnduff, SK Canada | Registered: Nov 1998
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Hiya Suelynn, I assume it's the same stuff that I used to use back in New Jersey - when I did real signs We used Signlife on raw redwood to lessen grain peel when we removed the sandblast mask. Also, we tinted it with 1 Shot and used it as a transparent stain. My old boss did this for many years and it appears to be very durable.
Havin' fun,
Checkers
-------------------- a.k.a. Brian Born www.CheckersCustom.com Harrisburg, Pa Work Smart, Play Hard Posts: 3775 | From: Harrisburg, Pa. U.S.A. | Registered: Nov 1998
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Just be sure to use the right Sign Life product.
They make products for both applications Checkers mentioned, but they aren't the same one.
These are from a supplier's web page:
FIRST STEP clear bonding primer Apply primer before applying sandblast stencil. Paint surface to be protected, apply stencil and blast. Stain sandblasted area before removing stencil
STAINS semi transparent SignLIFE’s unique blend of oxides, pigments and fungicides assures you of total color retention, longer life than other stains useable on all types of wood.
I have used the First Step, and was happy with it. I haven't used the other, so I can't really endorse it. Good Luck.
-------------------- Joe Endicott NEXCOM (Navy Exchange Service Command) Signing Programs Specialist Virginia Beach, VA jeendicott@msn.com
"I want to be Stereotyped....I want to be Classified." Posts: 681 | From: Virginia Beach, VA USA | Registered: Mar 1999
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The can I have is the Sign Life natural clear. My supplier said it soaks into the wood very well, and won't need any touching up for several years. I was wondering if it could be used over the whole sign, and then painted overtop? Sounds like that should be done with the First Step. I didn't see that in my suppliers catologue.
I'll stick with only using it on the blasted part for now. Thanks for your help.
Anybody else?
Suelynn
-------------------- "It is never too late to be what you might have been." -George Eliot
Suelynn Sedor Sedor Signs Carnduff, SK Canada Posts: 2863 | From: Carnduff, SK Canada | Registered: Nov 1998
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-------------------- Jimmy Chatham Chatham Signs 468 stark st Commerce, Ga 30529 Posts: 1766 | From: Commerce, GA, USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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Suelynn I have used the Sign life products They work well and last You can tint the clear with oneshot Add quite a bit of paint and slosh it on really wet..place sign in horizontal position so the clear can soak in well....redwood and cedar will absorb a lot... You can use it on the entire sign as well....but thats not a real good idea...it dries very slowly I do like the First Step ..This dries quickly and seems to stick well...I top coat with a thin coat of Jay Cooke primer....then use either oneshot or acrylics. If you roll the first step..be prepared to smooth out bubbles with a brush....it dries so fast that bubbles form...
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