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We do alot of antique repro signs. I usually start with an old board. Then I decide about the background. Sometimes this can be the most important part. If I choose to make it natural, then on to the second step. If I choose a color, then I usually decide whether the background is a solid color or whether I'm reverving the the lettering. If the latter, then I paint all the background the lettering color. If I want a solid color background then eith way I probably will use a watered down latex paint. The lettering I do is painted in either latex or poster. I think some of the sucess in making the sign look old is not to worry about covered. Pick a brush and paint that you are confortable with and quickly letter the sign. Do Not Worry about coverage.After the sign is lettered, I use a 50 grit sand paper to remove paint. You can use a wire brush or finer sand paper but I think the coarser the better. Edges must be softened but use of a hammer( beat down the edges) or sanding. I have used orange shelax over the signs to add color but never leave a gloss, always soften with steel wool. If all else failsssssss, lie and say it's old. Practice and play, something will work.
-------------------- Tom & Kathy Durham Weber Hill Signs House Springs, Mo. 63051 636-671-4676 Posts: 11 | From: House Springs, Mo. | Registered: Mar 2003
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I know someone who will remain nameless who used to bury signs in cow manuer for some time to speed up the ageing process. It worked and fooled many people.
-------------------- Rob Larkham Sign Techniques Inc. Chicopee, Ma Posts: 607 | From: Chester, Ma. | Registered: Apr 2002
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Laura, If you need any info, call Mike. . . .he is the true expert. John
-------------------- John Arnott El Cajon CA 619 596-9989 signgraphics1@aol.com http://www.signgraphics1.com Posts: 1443 | From: El Cajon CA usa | Registered: Dec 1998
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chain!!!
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