I need to build a lectern out of 1/2" clear acrylic. Getting the material cut is not a problem, but i need to know the right method of adhering it together...does anyone have any experience gluing plastic like this? What kind of glue? Any special precautions/ methods?
Thanks!!
Barry
------------------ Master's Touch Signs & Screenprinting Clinton AR 5017456246 ICQ 17430008 "Imagine the Possibilities..."
Posts: 2500 | From: Clinton, AR USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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what kind of dry time? Should I dado grooves in the plastic so that one piece "fits" into another? I just wanna do this right the first time.......
B
------------------ Master's Touch Signs & Screenprinting Clinton AR 5017456246 ICQ 17430008 "Imagine the Possibilities..."
Posts: 2500 | From: Clinton, AR USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted
Weldon is good, another good one is Acryfix. I think the manufacturers suggests either rebating or bevelling the pieces to be glued. If you do, scrape it/them with the edge of a steel rule or something similar afterwards, this'll help get rid of the scuff marks. if its say one piece to be glued along its edge to another piece on the flat, run a bead of the glue along the edge of the piece to be glued, then stick it down to the other piece and run a bead along the web of the join. I havent a great deal of experience with the weldon, but acryfix is best left overnight or for about 8 hours or more. (in warm conditions approx 20c + ) Can someone please put me out of my misery here... there is also a chemical generally available at your local pharmacist that you can use to tack the pieces but I cant think of the name and its driving me nuts. I keep thinking of formaldahyde but I know thats not the right one. Good luck, David
------------------ D.A. & P.M. Fisher Signwriting Brisbane Australia da_pmf@yahoo.com
Posts: 1450 | From: Brisbane Queensland Australia | Registered: Nov 1998
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------------------ St.Marie Graphics & Makin' Tracks Sound Studio Kalispell, Montana stmariegraphics@centurytel.net http://www.stmariegraphics.com 800 735-8026 We're chiseling every day of the week! :^)
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Barry, the parts will look better in most cases if there's a notched joint, but it's not absolutely necessary. Just as long as they fit together well without forcing. You can apply the Weld-On to one or both sides, just make sure that you set them together while the cement is still wet. It dries fairly quickly. Try a few scraps at first to get the feel for how heavy to apply the cement and the time you have to work with it. The bond time is 24 hours, although I rarely clamp the pieces together that long - usually about 8 hours. The joint strength will increase over a period of weeks.
posted
Barry, we build 3-D trade show displays out of clear acrylic. We make them for seed companies, that fill them with corn etc. We use Rez-n-Bond, and if we use polycarbonate for some pieces we use methylene cloride. Both are available here at sign suppliers but I don't know about the US. The nice thing about both products is that it is an instant bond, because it melt's the plastic together.
------------------ Dennis Veenema The Sign Shop Dresden, Ont. & GigaBytes Plus "Where the plus is the service!"
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dave the answer is acetone liquid used as a solvent. don't think the druggists here in the states sells anything anymore but prescricption drugs and lottery tickets. Home depot type ect has it in pints to gallons. Same stuff as liquid plastic cement. best used with a syringe and capiallary (sp) action. it will cause hazing or cloudiness of the plastic were ever it lands. so don't drip it across the face of the piece. been there,done that! unless you are looking for a abstract design on it. use padded clamps or masking tape to hold the sides together the groving for a press fit along with the glues named in other posts is the way to go don't use duct tape to high tack and a mess to remove adhesive after. acetone is fuming and no smoking unless you want that mad max after the end of the world look.
------------------ PTSideshow been there, probally done that.
Posts: 120 | From: Mount Clemens,MI,USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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Sorry folks ...the magic chemical is Methylene Cloride.
Weldon IS Methylene Chloride and comes in its regular state "thin" for use in hypodermic needles and "heavy body" for use in a squeeze bottle ...the heavy body is nothing more than the "thin" with acrylic mixed and dissolved into it.
You will be talking to an plastic supplier...so ask them about the glues and application...if you have never done this before...be sure to get some scrap material to play with it's easy to use but hard to recover from if you make a mistake.
Usually the plastic supply houses also provide fabrication services...If it were me I'd have them "weld" it up you,mark it up the cost and take the credit.
"Werks fer me it'll werk fer you"
------------------ Monte Jumper SIGNLanguage/Norman.Okla.
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I agree with Monte, we also use Plex-Weld, #5 is the thin MC and #19 is the thicker version. I prefer dado and pencil polishing for a more durable bond. Not only will the groove make for a tight fit that will not allow the unit to wobble but also you get two more surfaces to weld. From my recollection, MC is for acrylic and polycarbonate should be adhered with epoxy or silicone (poly-weld did not work well and has been pulled from the market.)
------------------ Kent Smith Smith Sign Studio Greeley, Colorado, USA kent@smithsignstudio.com
Posts: 1025 | From: Estes Park, CO | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted
Sorry to let this go a few days, been busy. Pencil polishing is a method of buffing all the edges of acrylic so they are as clear as the rest of the sheet. They also will conduct light better when edge lighted. For small edges there are pencil sized buffers that do a great job. We have had subs precut and polish the pieces for us and it makes a real sharp looking finished product.
------------------ Kent Smith Smith Sign Studio Greeley, Colorado, USA kent@smithsignstudio.com
Posts: 1025 | From: Estes Park, CO | Registered: Nov 1998
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