posted
About two years ago, I designed and built a twelve ft by 8ft high vertical worktop using white face laminated chipboard on a steelframe. I find it invaluable when working on 8 * 4 projects or larger wher several shhets have to be joined. I can hold two or three sheets at a time on it using velcro fasteners and the fact substrates are vertical, it gathers little or no dust during lettering. I have found working on the vertical as opposed to flat is both far easier and probably about 20% quicker. Also excellent when applying large gerber edge graphics
-------------------- Kevin Gaffney Artistik Signs Kinnegad County Westmeath Ireland 044-75187 kevingaffney@eircom.net Posts: 628 | From: Ireland | Registered: Oct 2003
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Kevin.....sounds like a great idea. Have any pics of it? How does the velcro hold the panels to the table? C'mon now man, show us the goods.........cool!
-------------------- Mike"Spud"Kelly zipperhead design Westminster, MA Posts: 367 | From: Westminster, MA | Registered: Mar 2001
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posted
I built mine like an easel, just slightly off vertical. And you're right, very little dust and stuff in your paint. Plus, I don't understand the physics of it, but painted panels dry quicker on the vertical as opposed to laying flat.
-------------------- Tim Rieck Signs Halfmoon Bay, BC Posts: 736 | From: Halfmoon Bay, BC, Canada | Registered: Sep 2000
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I've been wanting to build myself one for years & years, but somehow just never make it a priority. I just bought (3) 6' heavy-duty shelving units that are only 18" deep. I want to bolt them to each other & to the wall for storage of items not used on a regular basis. Then I want to come up with a plan for a steel frame that supports (2) 4x10 sheets of 3/4" MDO as an easel w/ a lip to support panels but is attached to the shelves w/ hinges & I can fold down either one or both 4x10's to a horizontal work surface.
The height of the bottom of the easel would probably be nice if it was lower then the height when it is a table, & that is what makes this a half-baked design in mt head instead of a done deal in my shop.
Anyone already make anything similar that might have some clues?
I'm thinking... weld a hinged ledger bar on the shelves at "table" height, shimmed out enough for a slight sloap... but then have 4 to 6 points of attachment on the back of the 4x10's that are like 12" long slots allowing the bottom of the easel to hang 12" below the ledger. Then, I could unhook the top, raise it up a foot, lock it into the alternate hinge position & fold it down. Then the front "legs" could either be attached to the back side of the easel, or could just be some saw horses set to the right height. The main problem with that idea, is my slotted brackets on the back of the easel would now be on top of my table.
hmmm maybe the slotted brackets go on the shelves (or wall) not the easel...
posted
Hi, I made a workbench 5 months ago like that. I have a wall that anything can be screwed onto, but a big workbench was always a wish, and what about when it's in the way... A local business advertised 12 x 6 ft sheets of chipboard 2" thick for $25 each , second hand, with a melamine coating. I didn't need any more motivation then. I bolted some 2" angle iron to each short edge, and welded a bit of 1 1/2" pipe to the middle of each piece. I then had a board like a giant butterfly valve in a carby. I welded some 2" pipe to the top of three legs like a braced triangle, so this would hold the bench, and made two stays so it can be bolted flat/horizontally, or bolted vertically & shoved up against a spare wall to give more floor area. The top sits 1 metre from the ground- I like that height- our kitchen benchtops & sink are also 1 metre up. I then bolted some angle iron to the bottom edge, to give me a straight edge to use a bit like Mark Matykowski shows in his website, plus I bored a hole & put a bit od dowel in it, so I can drop a 4 ft ruler over it to give me a non-slipping 90 degree straight edge, for cutting vinyl, stickers, anything, with a knife by hand. It's been great- except it sags a bit, so I knocked up a truss to go under the centre, but haven't fitted it yet. It's been worth a fortune so far with the ease with which I've done some jobs, even welding up 8 x 4 steel frames- no bending over or down to the floor needed and my back appreciates it. It also makes a good spare wall to attach banners to for projecting onto them. Photos- well I'll have to clear the mess off to get a view first- not this weekend!
They're great though.
P.S. I was going to add some extra holes so I could bolt it an various angles, but I've found that horizontal, & vertical are all I need.
[ October 31, 2003, 02:02 AM: Message edited by: Ian Stewart-Koster ]
-------------------- "Stewey" on chat
"...there are no limits when you aim for perfection..." Jonathan Livingston Seagull Posts: 7016 | From: Highgrove via Toowoomba, Queensland, Australia | Registered: Dec 2002
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posted
Sounds good Ian. When you can get some piocs please post them. I got a little lost one the description, but maybe in a week or two you can show us.
posted
us old paint guys....dont feel right workin on a flat table. no matter where i set up to work.....i make a 4x8(4x16 if space available)hanging or proped up on a wall at about 15 degrees off a 90. at my home in sarsota i had a entree way that was 4' x 10', in it i framed a 5/8 sheet 4x8 with 1'x4, put 2 hooks on the wall and 2 hooks on the board, had 2 legs that folded up or down to a 90 with the wall...and that where i did all my vinyl or paint application. here i have a 4x8 on a cople 2x4 frames and its in the carport on one wall.
-------------------- joe pribish-A SIGN MINT 2811 longleaf Dr. pensacola, fl 32526 850-637-1519 BEWARE THE TRUTH.....YOU MAY NOT LIKE WHAT YOU FIND Posts: 11582 | From: pensacola, fl. usa | Registered: Nov 1998
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