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does anyone screen print there own shirts. I was wondering what kind of ink to use for that Ive used nasdar 9700 for signs but im not sure what to use on shirts? I only want to do my own shirts so I dont wanna buy any expensive equiptment for uv inks. Any help would be appreciated
This ink is dryed by hot air. In the past, I have used a heat gun to dry shirts with similar inks. Some heat guns can go up to 1500 degrees and can dry plastisol inks as well. Might take a while to get them done drying them by hand, so to speak, but if your doing a short run (3 dozen or so one color prints), might be just right for you. Anything multicolor or longer runs, you might want ot have done at a local tshirt shop.
Hope this helps... Rapid
-------------------- Ray Rheaume Rapidfire Design 543 Brushwood Road North Haverhill, NH 03774 rapidfiredesign@hotmail.com 603-787-6803
I like my paint shaken, not stirred. Posts: 5648 | From: North Haverhill, New Hampshire | Registered: Apr 2003
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Hi, we can get a cold-cure catalyst to add to the (water-based) pastes for fabric printing, so you don't need heat to set it. It's expensive- about $80 per 250mls from memory, but you mix it at 3% by volume with the paste. Permaset is the brand.
PS Spelling 'there' and 'your'..... their & you're ??? best wishes
-------------------- "Stewey" on chat
"...there are no limits when you aim for perfection..." Jonathan Livingston Seagull Posts: 7016 | From: Highgrove via Toowoomba, Queensland, Australia | Registered: Dec 2002
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Just trying to be the devil's advocate here, but I've seen shirts that were printed with sign inks and such and they don't look or work as well as plastisol inks that are designed for t-shirt printing. You have to cure them a certain way or they won't last, they fade and wash out, it's hard to print multi-color stuff, etc.
If you are just wanting to print them for a novelty effect, that would work fine, but if you are wanting them for advertising, go ahead and have them printed right.
I would be happy to print them for you, (as we are a t-shirt shop, and have the right equipment and inks)or point you in the right direction to others who would help you out, give me a call or e-mail me.
Again, don't misunderstand me, it can be done with other inks and equipment like others have posted, and you more than likely will get somewhat adequate results.
Of course you can also paint a car with house paint and a roller...
-------------------- Michael Clanton Clanton Graphics/ Blackberry 19 Studio 1933 Blackberry Conway AR 72034 501-505-6794 clantongraphics@yahoo.com Posts: 1737 | From: Conway Arkansas | Registered: Oct 2001
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Richard, If there is a local art store near you they may carry textile printing inks. That's where I got my first inks. They worked fine - were waterbased and easy cleanup. They had to be heat pressed on but had information on how that could be done with an iron. I'm still wearing them for workshirts 10 years later - I think they were "speedball" brand but I'm not sure. Anyway they were cheap - about $10 Canadian for 12 oz. If you are interested I can check the make for you.
-------------------- “Did you ever stop to think, and forget to start again?” -Winnie the Pooh & A.A. Milne
Kelly Thorson Kel-T-Grafix 801 Main St. Holdfast, SK S0G 2H0 ktg@sasktel.net Posts: 5496 | From: Penzance, Saskatchewan | Registered: May 2002
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Hi, I don't want to contradict Michael's post, but just clarify what I was saying- "Permaset" is a brand of fabric/T-shirt screen-printing paste avail here in Oz. (It's not a plastisol, but is designed as an air-dry fabric printing product.) Normally you would pass it through a drier at pretty darn hot for 2-3 minutes to cure it. (read the instructions for specific times & temps) If you don't have a drier, a cold-cure catalyst can be added to 'set' the paste the same way. Some screen printers I know still add the catalyst, even though they use a drying tunnel, 'just to make sure'. Best wishes.
-------------------- "Stewey" on chat
"...there are no limits when you aim for perfection..." Jonathan Livingston Seagull Posts: 7016 | From: Highgrove via Toowoomba, Queensland, Australia | Registered: Dec 2002
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Sorry, I was afraid my post may have come across a little condesending, after I re-read it. I was just off on a tangent to make the point of using the right stuff for the job. Before I worked in a textile screenshop, I was around several sign painters who would swear by just using whatever they had laying around to screen onto shirts, some worked okay, most did not. When I read the original post, that is what I imediatly thought of, hence my post. Most of the posts here, however, were right on with other types and brands of ink that are specific to textile printing. A store like Hobby Lobby or Michael's, Dick Blick (or other arts and craft stores) should have some of the paste type inks. How you cure them is most critical, some being water based, they could wash out if not properly cured.
Most of the plastisol inks we use have to be cured at 340-350 degrees for one minute. We have a conveyor dryer, and other specific equipment for textile screening, so that is why I offered our services or info to find a t-shirt shop closer that might make the curing process a little easier.
I have also found that a Heat Press has been a great tool to have around for stuff like that. A lot of people nowdays can buy inkjet transfer paper and print iron-on transfers from their home computer, but the problems come when they believe that using an ordinary iron will give them flawless results on the shirts. A local church just recently made some shirts using pre-made iron-ons, and we donated the use of our heat press to help them do the job right.
-------------------- Michael Clanton Clanton Graphics/ Blackberry 19 Studio 1933 Blackberry Conway AR 72034 501-505-6794 clantongraphics@yahoo.com Posts: 1737 | From: Conway Arkansas | Registered: Oct 2001
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Just trying to be the devil's advocate here, but I've seen shirts that were printed with sign inks and such and they don't look or work as well as plastisol inks that are designed for t-shirt printing. You have to cure them a certain way or they won't last, they fade and wash out, it's hard to print multi-color stuff, etc. ![[Big Grin]](biggrin.gif)
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Sorry, I was afraid my post may have come across a little condesending, after I re-read it. I was just off on a tangent to make the point of using the right stuff for the job. 
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