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» The Letterville BullBoard » Old Archives » stuck on install, suggestions?

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Author Topic: stuck on install, suggestions?
Tim
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Member # 1699

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Sign is 2'x10' 3/4" mdo with a raised framed border, and gemini 3/8" acrylic letters with a 1/4" standoff.

It is to be attached to a concrete block wall of the 8"x16" variety, but not the flat ones, these are textured or should I say like cut granite faces with high and low spots. Know what I mean Vern?

I would like to keep to a flush mount, and preferably without mounting through the face of the sign. I could pin the backside and drill the blocks and mount with an adhesive, but I do worry about some stupid kids that may try to pull it off the wall.

Theres probably an easy solution to this that I'm just not seeing or thinking about. Any suggestions?

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Tim Rieck Signs
Halfmoon Bay, BC

Posts: 736 | From: Halfmoon Bay, BC, Canada | Registered: Sep 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Doug Allan
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I don't feel I have all the specs I would want to avoid making suggestions that can't work, but as for not mounting through the face... Is that raised border already permenantly attached? I could see a frame on the back out of 2x2's If this could be mounted w/ deck screws through the face at the edges where the raised frame would cover them, then you could have 2 horizontal ledger boards mounted to the blocks, spaced so the 2x2 framing on the backside of your sign can rest on the top ledger & screws can go down through the top 2x2 & up through the bottom one.

This would give less surface area on the back where high spots could give you grief... if you have to shave down the depth of a few spots on the 2x2 frame, at least its just small areas compared to the area of the whole sign. It will also give a beefy thickness to the sign that your raised frame already does, but will probably still add some nice dimension. It also lets your main securing to the block happen with a light weight ledger. Then when you lift up the heavy sign, it immediately rests on the ledger while you easily blast in a bunch of deck screws through your 2x2 framing into ledgers.

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Doug Allan
http://www.islandsign.com

"you get what you settle for"

Posts: 8981 | From: Kahului, HI, USA | Registered: Sep 2001  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Tim
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Thanks Doug,

the raised border is permanantly attached, it is 1 1/2" wide of the same mdo, epoxy and screwed and finished to the backboard.

I like your idea, I was first thinking about some kind of french cleat design.

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Tim Rieck Signs
Halfmoon Bay, BC

Posts: 736 | From: Halfmoon Bay, BC, Canada | Registered: Sep 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Chuck Churchill
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Almost full lenghts french cleats would work well here. I would use two of them one set about 4" down from the top and the second 4 to 6" up from the bottom. We did a 12"h x 8" wide pictoral (on 3 pieces of 3/4" marine grade plywood) with french cleats about 3 years ago. We used 1"x4" ripped down the centre because the client did not want to stick out from the wall very far. He though it would attrack vandalism is it set off the wall much.

You don't say this is going up outside but I assume it is. Put a bead of silicone on top of the wall cleats before you set the sign cleats on them . After a couple of hours it will stick real good. Wind won't blow it off and vandals will give up trying to pull it down. Also you can put a screw through the two parts of the cleat near the ends. This will help keep the sign on the wall also.

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Chuck Churchill,
It's A Good Sign Inc.
3245 Harvester Rd, U-12
Burlington, Ont.
Phone: 905-681-8775
Fax: 905-681-8945

Posts: 633 | From: Burlington, Ontario, Canada | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Tim
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Good input Chuck,

Sign is for my firehall, and will be hung outside. We do have a problem with some kids that like to pull off light fixtures and anything else they can, which is why I have concern about the install.

I went to the fastner shop today looking for ideas and came across an adhesive I might use to pin and set into the blocks. Its 2 part like an epoxy but its acrylic and made for fastening into block. Apparantly it is so strong when set that the pin will shear before the adhesive lets go. Sounds like tough stuff.

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Tim Rieck Signs
Halfmoon Bay, BC

Posts: 736 | From: Halfmoon Bay, BC, Canada | Registered: Sep 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Monte Jumper
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Member # 1106

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I "keyhole" a lot of my work, especially if an invisible mount is required.

The "keyholes" are easy...use aluminum .090 or even .063 (about 4" square for this size job)drill the mounting hole dead center...and a smaller hole below it (to fit mounting hardware)and file(or saw) a slot between the two holes.

Mount them on the back of the panel with appropriate hardware with a hole recessed behind the keyhole large enough to accomodate the head of the fastner.

Make a pattern off the back of the sign marking each keyhole ...tape it to the wall, drill and mount your hardware.

Hang the sign and at the top (where no one can see it) mount a small angle and screw it to the wall (a locking devise that keeps the "kids" from lifting the sign from the anchors) .

I avoid adhesives like the plague they are...however if I think a sign will not be coming dowwn any time soon I might put some silicone inside the keyholes to keep it from being lifted off...God help ya tho if you have to remove it in the future

"Werks fer me it'll werk fer you"

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"Werks fer me...it'll werk fer you"

Monte Jumper
SIGNLanguage/Norman.Okla.
jumpers@itlnet.net

Posts: 3185 | From: Norman,Okla.U.S.A. | Registered: Sep 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
   

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