We're relatively new to the signmaking business, and recently when we tried to apply some vinyl decals to glass, we had some problems.
First off, we tried using Rapid Tac on the glass. Not too much, just enough to allow repositioning. We found this method to be highly efficient in allowing us to reposition the vinyl; in fact, TOO efficient. The Rapid Tac wouldn't dry, leaving the vinyl too wet to even pull the transfer tape off. We let it dry for three hours (!!!) and the transfer tape STILL wouldn't come off without a fuss. It took quite a bit of VERY careful pulling to remove the transfer tape from the vinyl.
Secondly, we tried applying the vinyl without any Rapid Tac. Although this method is great in terms of removing the transfer tape (ie: only takes seconds, don't have to worry about the vinyl lifting as you pull it off), it's horrible in terms of repositioning. In fact, the vinyl sticks so well to the glass that once it sticks (even if the vinyl isn't positioned correctly), trying to lift and reposition it results in the vinyl getting wrecked.
How does one apply vinyl to glass and reposition it? We COULD use Rapid Tac, but it seems that method would take at least 24 hours to dry before the transfer tape can be removed with ease.
Any suggestions are welcome.
Thanks,
Dylan Cooke
-------------------- Imagine That Laurie Walling 734 1st Ave N. Saskatoon, SK, Canada S7K1Y1 Posts: 16 | From: Saskatoon, SK, Canada | Registered: Aug 2003
| IP: Logged |
posted
How does one apply vinyl to glass and reposition it? ... One doesn't... one positions it right the first time Are you using a tape hinge? I always position my graphics while the release liner is still on. Get my ruler out, or cut little holes in between letters to see things behind, or line up multi-color work in advance on a light table. (or on clients window, w/ sun behind) If you can get it positioned right before removing liner, then tape into position along the top like a hinge (sorry if obvious stuff, but you said "new" to signs... so giving the install 101 here) then flip up, partially remove liner & start squeegeeing. If you really can't get a bubble free application w/o wetting the vinyl... I suggest not only a light mist, but also rubbing the wet adhesive side of vinyl to spread fluid evenly & also remove excess. I would also plan on waiting anywhere from a lunch hour for large shapes/letters, to the 24 hours you mentioned on fine detail. (also I seem to recall RT-2 being better for this aspect of wet app troubles?)
Don't try repositioning, use a "hinge" of masking tape after you have aligned the stuff the way you want it.
I can't remember the last time I tried "eyeballing/splatting" vinyl on any surface. I buy masking tape by the case!!!
-------------------- Dave Grundy retired in Chelem,Yucatan,Mexico/Hensall,Ontario,Canada 1-519-262-3651 Canada 011-52-1-999-102-2923 Mexico cell 1-226-785-8957 Canada/Mexico home
posted
first go purchse rob ivers vinyl application cd's then use RT II with calandered (lower performance)vinyl on glass
-------------------- Leaper of Tall buildings.. If you find my posts divisive or otherwise snarky please ignore them. If you do not know how then PM me about it and I will demonstrate. Posts: 5274 | From: Im a nowhere man | Registered: Jul 2001
| IP: Logged |
posted
Most of us use a hinge. To create a hinge, use masking tape and apply it to the top(in this case) or bottom after you have positioned your graphic on the window. Then pull the release backer, and squeege down the graphic. Here are some pics to help you visualize.
Hope this helps. -Rich
-------------------- Richard Bustamante Signs in the Pines www.signsinthepines.com Posts: 781 | From: Nevada City, California | Registered: Nov 1998
| IP: Logged |
posted
Hey Richard!! Glad to see someone else who bottom hinges!
Good pics, they demonstrate things nicely.
-------------------- Dave Grundy retired in Chelem,Yucatan,Mexico/Hensall,Ontario,Canada 1-519-262-3651 Canada 011-52-1-999-102-2923 Mexico cell 1-226-785-8957 Canada/Mexico home
posted
Newbies from Saskabush....Coool! You will find that if you wet the outside of the adhesive with a spray bottle that it comes off easily. I find that it is easiest to apply wet especially with large pieces - I also use the hinge method in conjunction with this. Take a few scraps and try experimenting on your shop window or an old piece of glass. Once you get the hang of it it is easy.
-------------------- “Did you ever stop to think, and forget to start again?” -Winnie the Pooh & A.A. Milne
Kelly Thorson Kel-T-Grafix 801 Main St. Holdfast, SK S0G 2H0 ktg@sasktel.net Posts: 5496 | From: Penzance, Saskatchewan | Registered: May 2002
| IP: Logged |
posted
Yes, get a video about installation, then go practice, and maybe find somebody's who's done a bit of it to show you.
For glass, use RapidTac 2. Then you'll only have to wait about 30 minutes. (I apply it, then go have a cup of coffee or schmooze the customer and sell them their next sign.)
I'm told it "shouldn't" take that long, but I'm near the ocean and that's about how long it seems to take. It is also important to have the glass super-clean. The RapidTac website talks you through the process. I use cast vinyl.
-------------------- :: Scooter Marriner :: :: Coyote Signs :: :: Oakland, CA :: :: still a beginner :: :: Posts: 1356 | From: Oakland (and San Francisco) | Registered: Mar 2001
| IP: Logged |
posted
If you followed instructions and it still won't bond in 90 seconds, then call me-800-350-7751.
If you get bubbles, your not getting the substrate wet enough, getting it real wet will not prolong bonding (there is a stimulant in the formula to activate the adhesive in 90 seconds) Chances are you are not getting the substrate contaminant free or you may be ADDING the contaminants.
![[Smile]](smile.gif)
![[Big Grin]](biggrin.gif)
![[Confused]](confused.gif)
Printer-friendly view of this topic