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» The Letterville BullBoard » Old Archives » Ever paint a signicade?

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Author Topic: Ever paint a signicade?
Robert Davis
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Member # 1641

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I need to come up with a lightweight A-frame sign. I was thinking of using a Signicade plastic A-frame but the client wants an old wood looking sign. I was thinking of painting the signicade and adding a little wood grain effect. Will this work? Thanks!

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Robert Davis
Sticky Sam's Signs
(828)488-1715
stickysam@dnet.net
The Great Smoky Mountains
Bryson City, N.C.

Posts: 133 | From: Bryson City, N.C. US | Registered: Jul 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
KARYN BUSH
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Member # 1948

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doubt it...but ya never know! the small bumpy texture would give it away to me.

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Karyn Bush
Simply Not Ordinary, LLC
Bartlett, NH
603-383-9955
www.snosigns.com
info@snosigns.com

Posts: 3516 | From: Bartlett, NH USA | Registered: Jan 2001  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Jillbeans
Resident


Member # 1912

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Hi Robert...
I was worried about the paint adhering to the somewhat "greasy" texture of the signicade.
Couldn't you pull a Dennis Gerathy "Old-Style" and use some T-111 instead? It is fairly thin & lightweight. You could stain it, then add a satin polyurethene finish, then letter it with a dry fitch...it would look awesome.
Bill Berberich & I did this on a T-111 barn in Mars last fall & it was sinfully easy to get that "aged" effect.
Of course, I am no carpenter, but you would have to build a lightweight frame, maybe using 1-by-whatever, and hinges, etc., but it still seems easier to me than paintin' friggin' wood grain on plastic. Anybody could move it around easily, yet it would be heavy enough to stay up.
Just my 2 cents...Good Luck!
Love- JILL

[ October 02, 2003, 09:41 AM: Message edited by: Jillbeans ]

--------------------
That is like a Mr. Potato Head with all the pieces in the wrong place.
-Russ McMullin

Posts: 8834 | From: Butler, PA, USA | Registered: Jan 2001  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
James Donahue
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If the client wants it to look like a PAINTED wooden sign, then MDO will work fine, as long as the laminates showing on the edge aren't a problem.

What you do is get a fine pinstriping brush, and paint the "joints" where the "boards" meet, after you've painted the plywood in the usuall way. Think about colors like antique white, Arizona red, or New England blue. Great pnstriping practice, great results, and you can even age or distress the background. Maybe fake "chip" or "miff" the ends of the fake boards to give it more of a grain look.

Fast, easy and fun.

Edit: the colors I mentioned are for the background color, not the stripes. They should be a grey-brown color, not black.

[ October 02, 2003, 10:03 AM: Message edited by: James Donahue ]

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James Donahue
Donahue Sign Arts
1851 E. Union Valley Rd.
Seymour TN. (865) 577-3365 brushman@nxs.net

Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what's for lunch,
Benjamin Franklin

Posts: 2057 | From: 1033 W. Union Valley Rd. | Registered: Feb 2003  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Brian Stoddard
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Member # 39

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I have tried to paint a Signacade and trust - dont try it. I tried flame treating it and even a vinyl primer (all in seperate sections for tests) and several different paints from urathanes to one shot and even some krylon... It just dont stick.

I get PVC aframes from a company near me called Howmac www.howmac.com and they paint great except for the hinges which are a clear type rubber material. There are very light though and work great for contractors and such for putting behind a truck seat.

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Brian Stoddard
Northwest Signs

brian@nwsigns.com
www.nwsigns.com

Posts: 790 | From: Monroe, WA | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
ScooterX
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I never found SignCade signs to be all THAT lightweight by the time you add a sign face to them and all. And they're damn ugly.

If you use the T-1-11 you just need a hinge. Cut out some "feet" from the bottom and you'll reduce the weight a bit.

OR, you could cut a hollow-core door in half and just beef it up in the middle with a cut down 2x. Painting a wood door to look like wood would be a lot easier than making a Plasticade look like anything else.

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:: Scooter Marriner ::
:: Coyote Signs ::
:: Oakland, CA ::
:: still a beginner ::
::

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John Lennig
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What is this stuff called T-1-11??

what and where to get, any other details??
Always looking for new materials.

Thanks, John / SignRider

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John Lennig / Big Top Sign Arts
5668 Ewart Street, Burnaby,
British Columbia, Canada
bigtopya@hotmail.com
604.451.0006

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Jillbeans
Resident


Member # 1912

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Hi...
T-111 is a substrate commonly used as an exterior covering for sheds, porches, and -in Butler- to trim out the bottoms of mobile homes. It comes in 4x8 sheets, like plywood, but you can get it in either pine or cedar. It is grooved to look like paneling or barn siding, and it is tongue & grooved as well. You can also get it with varying widths of grooving, they are all the same with on a sheet, however.
You can get it at Lowe's, Home Depot, etc. I want to say it's around $15/sheet. It can be finished with primer & paint, stain, poly, or even boiled linseed oil. It is a thirsty board to coat out, but it is kinda cool for certain applications.
I was thinking, if the lady wants a wooden sign, why fake it with plastic? I agree w/Scooter.
love-jill

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That is like a Mr. Potato Head with all the pieces in the wrong place.
-Russ McMullin

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Ray Rheaume
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Call me nuts, but would shelf paper work?

You could get a roll for about 5 bucks in a woodgrain pattern and lay it down for a backround, then letter over it. (less weight)

just a thought...
Rapid

--------------------
Ray Rheaume
Rapidfire Design
543 Brushwood Road
North Haverhill, NH 03774
rapidfiredesign@hotmail.com
603-787-6803

I like my paint shaken, not stirred.

Posts: 5648 | From: North Haverhill, New Hampshire | Registered: Apr 2003  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
   

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