posted
ok, gonna do window splash from the inside out. Got my tempura paints (minus White). Thought I would mix a little latex White with my, say, yellow (turning it into Canary Yellow or such).
Will there be a risk of flaking, crackling because of the latex in the tempura?? Being a big window, I just wanna make sure before I am out there in a week re-painting.
posted
The white will also dull your colors and on the inside of the glass will be less effective due to the shine of the window and any tinting that is in the glass....
Never use poster paints, if temps use a good quality like Radient or Day Glo...
I know it's cold up there.....you might try Pierre's method and paint on Tyveck and tape to the outside, contact him about that.
If inside is the only way, charge more for it, do it all in latex or acrylics and back up with while latex.
posted
do it on the outside!!! hands down!....if you want it to last a "very" long time or if there is a problem with bad weather on the window you can clearcoat it....but then down the road clean off is much harder
-------------------- Aaron Haynes Aaron's Signs & Windows Napa Ca aa4signs@sbcglobal.net ------------ Important Rule For Life: "Look out for number one... Don't step in number two" ------------ If your never the lead dog on the sled...the scenery never changes. Posts: 241 | From: Napa Ca. USA | Registered: Dec 1998
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Due to WINTER, outside is out (or I would do it). I plan on it lasting on the window for a month or two but, I have seen some on windows well past their prime.
You've seen some of my stuff Adrienne. I like to be on site from start to finish and Tyvek is not something I want to use. I see ALL (every window here is painted on the inside) windows here have been done in Tempura. I plan to use Black and paint letters in reverse and then back it with a solid White or other light color. Been concerned about the Black coming off on my White roller. Adrienne (I believe)recommended a clear spray over the Black and before the back ground coat. Scraping off the window is no big deal and if the customer wants to save some $$$$ and do it themselves, that is when I get my laughs. Either they scrape it dry ( which kicks flakies in the air) or they pull out the hose (leaving a MUDDY clean-up)......it's a hoot to see!!! My main concern is that the windows I see here don't have "overlapping" colors. Everyone paints inside the lines like a coloring book. If "LATEX" White and Black are encouraged AND WILL NOT GET "flaky" then that is the avenue I am leaning towards. Again, that's why I am here at Letterhead, just to make sure before I EFF UP! Thanks for the advice and I will always accept more.
posted
Corey, I know your's will stand out from the others regardless....it's just too bad you can't paint on the outside...us Californians (and former Californian's ) are just not used to the kinda cold you have up there in Igloo country
So....yeah, problem I had, even with the acrylic black outline paint I use, is the lifting that happens when you try to roll that final coat on.
Reason being, the outlines are only on the glass itself and not on top of a ground, like latex, therefore since it's on a non-porous surface, there is not much for the paint to adhere to....
I once tried to give it a shot of clear enamel before rolling the white on the back, it will help, just keep in mind the smell isn't pleasant, and if the biz is a restaurant or pet shop you may have a problem.
When I clean off it's always wet, and I use a 3 inch wallpaper scraper, catching the rubbery old paint with my other hand and dropping it in a pail...squeegee and your done!
Try the fades on your letters, the blends look pretty smooth on the outside, you could even carve out the highlights when it's dry before backing with the white to get bright spots on the letters, I bet no one else is doing that around there.
Let us see what you end up with...
Dan Sawatzky made an excellent point at the meet last weekend....on the subject of doing it on a substrate vs. painting on location...people want to see the MAGIC! He's so smart!!
posted
Thanks for all the response. Tomorrow will be my first INSIDE window. Not drawn out, chisel letters like I am use to...just spelling backwards and painting a back ground, what could go wrong? Peice of cake. If and when I have 2 minutes to actually read and figure out how to post pics here, I will, along with some Cali. style splashes I did years ago.
I bought some Varathane Clear Satin Water Based quick dry spray that I am thinking of lightly hitting my first color, Black with and before the White back. No?
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Hi..Corey ! Just had to dig up this post, back in the 80's & 90's that was my line of work in calgary doing stampede windows one year there was a bonus after christmas windows it was the calgary winter olympics yeah them was the days ! from doing klondike days in edmonton to whop-up days in lethbridge the brushes smoked ! then the lettering at rodeos to the chuck wagon covers to pro rodeo trucksand doing signs for spruce grove , anyway had this phone call from chum last week he was also a splash painter, now retired and havin too much fun on his harley, anyway... back then we used oil base sho-card black one shot for outline and shadow lettering then fill in the colors with E.harris water colors thats no longer in the market too bad !!!! but now a'm using rich art window paint not the same but does the trick ,dam hard to come off there is a sollution they also carry that makes it easier to come off but you gotta mix it %%% to all your colors its just not the same , then on the jars they tell ya to use ammonia to take it off!!! NOW I PAINT FROM THE OUTSIDE WITH LATEX AND OILS. hope this helps ya!!!!
-------------------- Brian Hansen Heritage Signs & Graphic Designs 6003 Route 495 St.Marie New Brunswick (506)955.8885 Posts: 315 | From: St. Marie , New Brunswick | Registered: May 2002
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posted
Hi..Corey ! Just had to dig up this post, back in the 80's & 90's that was my line of work in calgary doing stampede windows one year there was a bonus after christmas windows it was the calgary winter olympics yeah them was the days ! from doing klondike days in edmonton to whop-up days in lethbridge the brushes smoked ! then the lettering at rodeos to the chuck wagon covers to pro rodeo trucksand doing signs for spruce grove , anyway had this phone call from chum last week he was also a splash painter, now retired and havin too much fun on his harley, anyway... back then we used oil base sho-card black one shot for outline and shadow lettering then fill in the colors with E.harris water colors thats no longer in the market too bad !!!! but now a'm using rich art window paint not the same but does the trick ,dam hard to come off there is a sollution they also carry that makes it easier to come off but you gotta mix it %%% to all your colors its just not the same , then on the jars they tell ya to use ammonia to take it off!!! NOW I PAINT FROM THE OUTSIDE WITH LATEX AND OILS. hope this helps ya!!!!
-------------------- Brian Hansen Heritage Signs & Graphic Designs 6003 Route 495 St.Marie New Brunswick (506)955.8885 Posts: 315 | From: St. Marie , New Brunswick | Registered: May 2002
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posted
I do the occasional window splash in MN, it CAN be done outside in the cold, even below freezing. I just use xylene instead of mineral spirits with the 1-shot poster paint, and use oil-base primer instead of water-base (I use KILZ) One splasher in my area whose work I admire very much is a fellow named Darwin Stall, whose splashes are are awesome. He now uses a gas-powered leaf blower to make his paint dry faster! He pretty much paints all winter, I just do them more as a hobby.
posted
Hello Corey, Jon Butterworth from Australia taught me this trick and it works great. I do all my window splashes on 6 month removable white vinyl. I use Mac tac brand. I design all my splashes in my computer and have my plotter pen plot them right on the vinyl. I also have it draw a contour line about 1.5 inches around the design. When it is done plotting I put the blade back in and select the contour line and have it cut it out. Now you just paint by numbers. They come out awesome. I have a 24" plotter so my splashes go up in 24" strips. Don't let the 6 month removable scare you. I have had some up for over a year and I just removed them with no problem. NO MORE SCRAPING PAINT!!! You will have to ticote the vinyl so the paint will stick. THANKS JON!!!
[ October 22, 2003, 06:52 AM: Message edited by: Robert Larkham ]
-------------------- Rob Larkham Sign Techniques Inc. Chicopee, Ma Posts: 607 | From: Chester, Ma. | Registered: Apr 2002
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posted
One Shot/oil based "Poster" paint. Pattern from outside...paint from inside. Staying inside lines like coloring book,IS NOT a BAD thing! Very effective with proper color next to color in posterization "STYLE" Used on Billboards and Theactrical Showcards Hence the name "Poster Paint"
Hope this helps
-------------------- PKing is Pat King The Professor of SIGNOLOGY Posts: 3113 | From: Pompano Beach, FL. USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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That's a pretty cool idea about pen plotting the vinyl and then painting it. Are you using any special paint? Did you have any problem with premask pulling the paint off?
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Rob, the "window splash" vinyl we use is paint receptive (matt white) made by Avery company. It does not have to be precoated. I think 3M make a similar product.
It does not need to be premasked. We find it's real easy to install large rectangular panels with a soft squeege then cut around the profile with an acto knife.
I tried to get the enamel receptive vinyl in the states but could not get it. I was told this is a European Avery product. I have been forced to use the ticote which dries in seconds with a heat gun. The rich art can come up with premask but as Jon said you don't have to use it.
-------------------- Rob Larkham Sign Techniques Inc. Chicopee, Ma Posts: 607 | From: Chester, Ma. | Registered: Apr 2002
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