posted
It'll go on great. The dibond is so smooth to begin with, all the prep needed is a little scuffing with 400 grit or even scotchbrite.
Durability? A couple years? I wouldn't choose Krylon for an important surface like a sign background that's going to have a lot of other labor invested over the top of it. Fine for a reveal or other solid panel that can be repainted easily.
SONGPAINTER Original Sign Music by Sign People NOW AVAILABLE on CD and the proceeds go to Letterville's favorite charity! Click Here for Sound Clips! Posts: 1974 | From: Orleans, MA, Cape Cod, USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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Sounds like I had better look in to some other type paint we are not setup for automotive type paints, any thing else that we could use that would last out doors.
-------------------- Dennis Raap Raap Signs Posts: 843 | From: Coopersville, MI | Registered: Feb 2003
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posted
1shot it's probably the best, if you can't spray... use a sponge roller, after you roll it the first time, give it about 10 min to set, and then re-roll with the same roller, in one direction to knock out the bubbles that appear in the first coat, You should have a mirror like finish.
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SIGNS1st. Neil Butler Paradise, NF Posts: 6277 | From: St. John's NF Canada | Registered: Mar 1999
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Dennis 1 coat should do it, but a second would never hurt, just be sure to wait at least 24 hrs before the second coat, and sand lightly between coats.
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SIGNS1st. Neil Butler Paradise, NF Posts: 6277 | From: St. John's NF Canada | Registered: Mar 1999
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Neil, when you get to a premium panel that needs to really last its longest and look its best, there are alternatives besides automotive acrylic enamels. 1-Shot makes a hardener that will improve gloss retention, UV stability and adhesion. You can also use automotive brands of urethane catalysts - I use Martin Senour 8875(from NAPA) which far outperforms the 1-shot product, but it's like $85 for a pint. There's been some discussion of whether hardeners limit an enamel's ability to flex. Don't know, but I havn't had that problem, and I love the hardness. It's a guaranteed overnight cure regardless of temperature or humidity. Next best thing to full acrylic enamel or more exotic urethanes. Oh, I use it mostly in Benjamin Moore Impervo enamels for rolled backgrounds, and in 1-shot for single coat brushed areas like letters.
SONGPAINTER Original Sign Music by Sign People NOW AVAILABLE on CD and the proceeds go to Letterville's favorite charity! Click Here for Sound Clips! Posts: 1974 | From: Orleans, MA, Cape Cod, USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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Good information Joe, that's one thing I've never done in my 26 years in this business, is to add chemicals, I've added a little Japan Dryers over the years, but that did'nt always make a difference, so that is some good info.
Here is a dibond sign that we did about 5 years ago using 1shot black straight out of the can... Rolled with a sponge roller. I know that Black will last a lot longer than red, so Maybe using these chemicals would certainly enhance durability with other colors.
[ October 01, 2003, 06:41 AM: Message edited by: Neil D. Butler ]
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SIGNS1st. Neil Butler Paradise, NF Posts: 6277 | From: St. John's NF Canada | Registered: Mar 1999
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1-shot recommends scuffing lightly with a Scotchbrite pad AND using an automotive "adhesive promoter". Otherwise i've noticed a tendency for the 1-shot to scratch easily.
The adhesive promoter is a chemical that sort of softens the top coat of the Dibond so the 1-shot can "bite" into a bit and form a chemical bond. (APs were developed for all these new automotive 2 and 3 stage catalyzed paints. the new paints are so tough that you need to soften them for touch up work.)
-------------------- :: Scooter Marriner :: :: Coyote Signs :: :: Oakland, CA :: :: still a beginner :: :: Posts: 1356 | From: Oakland (and San Francisco) | Registered: Mar 2001
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