posted
I have been looking into getting a laminator. I want one that does hot and cold and I could get away with a 25"-27" for now. Any recommendations?
-------------------- Laura Butler Vision Graphics & Sign 4479 Welch Rd Attica, Mi 48412 Posts: 2855 | From: Attica, Mi, USA | Registered: Nov 2000
| IP: Logged |
posted
Can't go wrong with a SEAL--they're excellent, but they're expensive! GBC also have some very good machines, but again, it depends on what you're looking to spend.
Why are you looking at 25" or so Laura? Just like a plotter or a printer, you're always going to have some joker want you to do something that won't fit---you can't piece laminate the way you piece vinyl. Any laminator can be used many ways, from just re-rolling of stock, to premasking, laminating of course, but also a great way to lay-down/hinge large vinyl. One shop I worked at, we had a cold only for applying vinyl, and a hot/cold for laminating, etc.
As with anything, you get what you pay for. I've seen many customers purchases cheaper laminators over the years only to kick themselves afterwards. Remember, if you ball something up in a laminator, it's not just the laminate you're out, but all your work leading up to that point as well!
posted
Hiya Laura, I can't suggest a specific model, but, we use the GBC Protech series 60" and have had a lot of success with it. You may want to look into a 36"+ wide model because once you own one, you'll find yourself using it for a lot more than laminating prints. They're great for applying application tapes to longer runs of vinyl and applying vinyl, bubble free, to smooth rigid substrates. Look for one with a foot pedal, variable heat, pressure & speed control. A media holder and a rewind tube would be nice too. I don't know if this may be an issue or not but make sure that you can reverse or back up the rollers when things go wrong and jam up. A word of caution though. I feel a laminator is the most dangerous tool in the shop. It seems harmless until you get your hand or clothing stuck in the rollers and it starts to pull you in. Knock on wood, I never had a problem, but, I have heard the horror stories.
Havin' fun,
Checkers
-------------------- a.k.a. Brian Born www.CheckersCustom.com Harrisburg, Pa Work Smart, Play Hard Posts: 3775 | From: Harrisburg, Pa. U.S.A. | Registered: Nov 1998
| IP: Logged |
posted
We are shopping for a new printer and laminator ourselves. I keep getting told "cold". I'm curious as to exactly what the need for "hot" is in our business?
Thanks
-------------------- Bruce Evans Crown Graphics Chino, CA graphics@westcoach.net Posts: 913 | From: Chino, CA | Registered: Nov 1998
| IP: Logged |
posted
I figured that I could only afford this size for now. I have a 36 HP inkjet but so far haven't printed anything bigger than a 24 x 36" print. I just heard about being able to use a laminator with cold settings to pre-mask so that was the reason for needing a cold. Before this, I had been lookin at the GBC 425 but now I don't know whether that will do the cold premasking.
-------------------- Laura Butler Vision Graphics & Sign 4479 Welch Rd Attica, Mi 48412 Posts: 2855 | From: Attica, Mi, USA | Registered: Nov 2000
| IP: Logged |
posted
I got side-tracked while posting my last comment & Ted beat me to some comments. Heat is used for hot melt laminates. The adhesive is activated when heated to 190+ degrees. The material is less expensive to buy, but they're a lot more difficult to use, unless you're set up for them. All the laminates we use are pressure sensitive adhesive backed. Any heated laminator should be able to run cold for p.s.a. laminates. We run our machine at about 100-110 degrees for most applications. It warms up the adhesive and increases the flow, improving the initial bond to the substrate. Another thing to consider if you do go with a heated laminator is a power supply. Some require 220v and they should be put on their own circut to prevent problems.
Havin' fun,
Checkers
-------------------- a.k.a. Brian Born www.CheckersCustom.com Harrisburg, Pa Work Smart, Play Hard Posts: 3775 | From: Harrisburg, Pa. U.S.A. | Registered: Nov 1998
| IP: Logged |
As for Cold, Hot, Hot/Cold, you'll find that a cold laminator is less money up front. You'll also find that cold (pressure sensitive) laminates cost more per sq ft. If you go Hot/Cold, you get the best of both worlds---you can go to a hot lam and lower your costs. It can still be used as cold as well.
Even many cold laminates like to have some heat put to them. We recommend when our customers use our 3M Lustre Laminate for vehicles that the heated rollers run around 95-110F---it gets the adhesive nice and gooey so that it flows well (helps eliminate bubbles), and less chances of a wrinkle as the face film is softened slightly.
Also, a hot laminator will help keep your shop warmer in the winter!
posted
i use a 60" GDC Orca 3 everyday. it's a 2 stage hot and cold. so i run one side hot (electrostatic paper transfer) then it goes into the cold side (overlaminates). roll to roll, vinyl slitters on the back side after the laminate, then it's ready to go.
-------------------- Scott Pagan Admark Graphic Systems Admark Motorsports Graphics 9700 Metromont Ind Blvd Charlotte, NC 28269 www.admarkgraphics.com Posts: 325 | From: Charlotte, NC | Registered: Nov 2001
| IP: Logged |
posted
Some of you must have misunderstood what I was asking. I already know that I want a machine that does Hot and Cold. I just don't know which machines in the 25"-27" are both hot and cold.
-------------------- Laura Butler Vision Graphics & Sign 4479 Welch Rd Attica, Mi 48412 Posts: 2855 | From: Attica, Mi, USA | Registered: Nov 2000
| IP: Logged |
Printer-friendly view of this topic