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» The Letterville BullBoard » Old Archives » Painting Exterior Brick

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Author Topic: Painting Exterior Brick
Corey Wine
Resident


Member # 1640

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Any primer recommended prior to painting exterior brick or can I just run out there with some one shot enamel and GO!?
Gotta downtown building that wants 200' x 14" Black band with White lettering wrapping around the top of the 2 story building.
I imagine I will paint solid 14" x 200'White 1st coat and then pounce my patterns and cut my Black in around the letters. 2 coats do it? Primer? Problems to look out for?

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Corey Wine
SignCONCEPTS
Airdrie, Alberta, Canada

Posts: 670 | From: Airdrie, Alberta, Canada | Registered: Jul 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
old paint
Visitor
Member # 549

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is it red brick 3"x 8" or is it concrete block 8" x 14"?????? you will need some kinda sealer if its unpainted brick or block. so you can count on painting twice. and how deep are the grout lines??? are they flush or recessed?

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joe pribish-A SIGN MINT
2811 longleaf Dr.
pensacola, fl 32526
850-637-1519
BEWARE THE TRUTH.....YOU MAY NOT LIKE WHAT YOU FIND

Posts: 11582 | From: pensacola, fl. usa | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
PKing
Deceased


Member # 337

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Contact me via e-mail for my preferances over the last 30 years.
Wouldn't want to give any information that might or might not be the ABSOLUTE correct answer!
Only what has worked for me all my wall painting years

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PKing is
Pat King
The Professor of
SIGNOLOGY

Posts: 3113 | From: Pompano Beach, FL. USA | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Steve Eisenreich
Visitor
Member # 1444

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Oh no this is not good, when expert craftsman with years of experience become so discouraged that they can not post their best answers to fellow letterheads. I personally try and read everything I can possibly read about this craft because someday I may need to use some of this valuable information. Right or wrong if you believe you are answering someone to your best ability that is all that can be asked and expected. I will be the one that will double check or test the procedure, that is my responsibility.

From what I understood about this not posting correct answers topic I feel the main motivation was for people to think through their answers. Just like when people ask questions but leave out critical information that make it impossible to answer. Like how much does a sign cost?

Come on guys/girls Letterville is about sharing. [Big Grin]

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Steve Eisenreich
Dezine Signs
PO BOX 6052 Stn Forces
Cold Lake, Alberta
T9M 2C5

Posts: 774 | From: Cold Lake | Registered: Mar 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Gary Winebarger
Visitor
Member # 154

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Corey

My advice is to contact your local paint distributor. I prefer the Benjamin Moore dealer here. Ask them to take a look at the wall with you. Let them suggest the proper primer / sealer before you tackle the job.

The best example that I can give you for this is…Once I had to do some lettering and logo on the floor of a corporate airplane hangar. The floor had been painted with some type of epoxy paint that battery acid would not even harm. I was told it was a Glidden product. The Glidden salesman was familiar with the floor and recommended the proper paint to use. That was about 20 years ago and to my knowledge it is still holding up.

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Gary Winebarger
Art & Sign
Conover, NC

Posts: 88 | From: Conover, NC USA | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Dwayne Hunter
Visitor
Member # 133

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From my vast experience, the first thing you must do is head to the liquor store. Purchase one LARGE bottle of anything for every 100 square feet of wall. Buying a lil' extra for good measure is ALWAYS a good measure. On the way to job, sample at least half of one of the LARGE bottles. At this point, you may want to employ a driver so as not to interfere with your 'chemical-quality-testing'. Unload the truck, evaluate your inventory and get started. Be sure to take your remaining LARGE bottles from the ABC store with you. At this point, once you have decided that the wall isn't spinning as fast you thought it was, consume the remainder of the first LARGE bottle...and whatever goes on the wall after that will look (hic) GREAT...

(Consider folks, my experience with wall painting is limited to what I've watched the old-timers in my area do...so I've got NO experience, but I couldn't pass up the chance to poke a lil' fun at how serious things are gettin' lately...)

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Dwayne Hunter
DAC Products, Inc.
625 Montroyal Road
Rural Hall, NC 27045

Posts: 215 | From: Rural Hall, NC | Registered: Jan 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Glenn S. Harris
Visitor
Member # 2190

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Would love to see an experienced "walldog" post on this one.

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Glenn S. Harris

....back in the sign trade
full time.

Posts: 293 | From: Baton Rouge, LA, USA | Registered: Jul 2001  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Matt Fontaine
Visitor
Member # 3405

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i like to use finger paints!!!!!! i know nothig and dont want to claim to anything

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Matt Fontaine
Crown Designs
Modesto, CA

Posts: 23 | From: Modesto, CA | Registered: Nov 2002  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
PKing
Deceased


Member # 337

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Corey
Check your e-mail
If any others are REALLY,REALLY intersted on this subject,my e-mail STILL works!
Lurkers,Antagonist,Wannabes,and Know-it-alls
are like "TIRE KICKERS" that I have the option to
not deal with. [Dunno]

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PKing is
Pat King
The Professor of
SIGNOLOGY

Posts: 3113 | From: Pompano Beach, FL. USA | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Glenn S. Harris
Visitor
Member # 2190

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...whatever

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Glenn S. Harris

....back in the sign trade
full time.

Posts: 293 | From: Baton Rouge, LA, USA | Registered: Jul 2001  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Monte Jumper
Resident


Member # 1106

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If you're painting "raw" brick seal it first with a good coat of XIM ...it's clear and drys extremely fast (you can paint and letter right over it in about an hour)I almost always coat out over this with white traffic marking white (rolled with a 3/8" shag roller) it sets up in about30 minutes or less.Then cut in the lettering with a colored back ground (One Shot)or letter(One Shot) right on top of the marking white...(if you have drips or the occasional run you can dob on a little marking white and correct it in a matter of minutes.
All these materials will allow you to continue working on the project in one day start to finish if you want...(something that is very important to you if you are working high and want to minimize the "set" you make with your scaffolding /ladders or stage)

If this is raw cinder block go to your favorite paint store and purchase a good "Block filler" and follow their instructions (usually two coats will give you a smooth enough surface to take the pain out of the bruch work.(Block fillers and traffic marking white can be tinted with "tinting colors)...

Hope this helps e-mail me if you need any more info!

It's werked fer me 38 years it'll werk fer you"

Incidently this edit is to clarify the following...

If you are concerned about this method of coating and lettering walls or if you're concerned about the longevity of the job...Look at some of the old Pepsi and Coke Walls that have been up for 30 40 and 50 years...this is the exact proceedure (with personal variations) that was used on them...I stil go back to Denver from time to time and see walls that I have done nearly 30 years ago (weathered and tired but still there).

Walldogging was my everyday occupation for a lot of years thru the 60's and 70's...today I prefer the life of the ground hugging air conditioned sign painter/shop owner...we'll leave this stuff to you young "dawgs". [Smile]

[ August 23, 2003, 11:32 AM: Message edited by: Monte Jumper ]

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"Werks fer me...it'll werk fer you"

Monte Jumper
SIGNLanguage/Norman.Okla.
jumpers@itlnet.net

Posts: 3185 | From: Norman,Okla.U.S.A. | Registered: Sep 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
   

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