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» The Letterville BullBoard » Old Archives » Polishing One-Shot

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Author Topic: Polishing One-Shot
Mike Palombo
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Member # 3072

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Hi ,

Has anyone ever tryed wet sanding then polishing artwork done with One-Shot gloss enamels? I just finished a job on a guy's trailer and I painted the logo with the One-Shot. The brush marks are noticeable and it drives me mad. I was thinking about wet sanding with 1500 grit wet to smooth it out and then using polish and a buffer to bring back the gloss. I always polish urethane clearoats on most of my work but have yet to try it on one-shot.
If anyone has any suggestions on ridding of those brush marks, please let me know.

Cheers and thanks

Mike

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Kandyman
KUSTOM AIRWORKS
144 Valleyway Cres.
Maple, Ontario
L6A 1K8
(905)303-9687
kustomairworks@sympatico.ca

Posts: 19 | From: Maple, Ontario Canada | Registered: Jun 2002  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Joey Madden
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Answers 2 fold.

Next time try using a flow enhancer like ChromaFlo or 1-Shot 6000 which will reduce the brush marks and enhance flow out, and will make it so you can't tell how it was done.

To answer your question, I say depending on what the substrate, the dry time, amount of coats, anythings possible. Wet sanding with 1500 a week later shouldn't be a problem.

--------------------
HotLines Joey Madden - pinstriping since 1952
'Perfection, its what I look for and what I live for'




http://members.tripod.com/Inflite
http://www.pinheadlounge.com/hotlinesjoeymadden

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Gavin Chachere
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Not disagreeing with what joey said here...but the key words in his reply are anythings possible and should be ok....what i would really be worried about here mike is b/c of the way one shot cures(i dunno how big an area you covered) it may feel hard enough to the touch or even when you sand it,but you still may have softness/uncured portion underneath that and when you hit it with a polisher you run the real risk of pulling up or disappearing some or even all the layers of what you have down,or naturally burning thru some smaller details etc. This is only an opinion but i would leave it as is and use it to stress the fact to the guy thats its a "handpainted" graphic and not a digital print blah blah...be easier to work it to your advantage that way then to spend all that time trying to color sand and polish and haveit still not work.

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Gavin Chachere
Plotter in the garage,New Orleans La.

"Sgts Shugart and Gordon again request permission to rope down to crash site two"

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old paint
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sanding it aint gona help. what joey said about flow enhancers...is what you should have done. bigger brush when you painted would have not left brush strokes, not painting it when the surface was hot, most of the time it comes down to your knowledge of one shot. take a while to get it to lay with no brush lines.

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joe pribish-A SIGN MINT
2811 longleaf Dr.
pensacola, fl 32526
850-637-1519
BEWARE THE TRUTH.....YOU MAY NOT LIKE WHAT YOU FIND

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CJ Allan
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Mike.........
What Joey, Gavin, and OP said............

If this job really buggs you this much....I would suggest going ahead and wet sanding , then going back over the entire job using the recommended Flow-Enhancers.......

Lots more work.....but I guess it all boils down to what satisfies you & your customer...

Most all of us have had to do things over like that, and I'm pretty sure I will again.... [Smile]

Just a suggestion......hope it helps....


..........cj

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CJ Allan
CJs Engraving
982 English Dr.
Hazel, KY 42049

www.cjs-engraving.com

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W. R. Pickett
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Don't obsess about it.

Remember, I.O.A.F.S.

(It's only a f***ing sign!)

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WR Pickett
Richmond, Va.

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Stephen Deveau
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There is one other thing to take into consideration.
(Brush Size) as you are lettering..
But as most said, Flow Additives...

Now as far as wet sanding! I wouldn't suggest it to polishes the outcome.
But maybe allow it the proper Curetime and next go over it again with the same colour!
[Wink]

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Stephen Deveau
RavenGraphics
Insinx Digital Displays

Letting Your Imagination Run Wild!

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Bill Preston
Deceased


Member # 1314

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Hi Mike,

Have to respectfully disagree with Joey---and agree with the others. One shot does take a while to cure. I try to figure a month or even two before telling customers to polish/wax.

The other thing is that some of the colors don't cover very well in spite of the name "One-Shot." With those , brush strokes are pretty much a given.

Here we go with what works for me--others will disagree. Add a few drops of penetrol to about 1/2 to 3/4 oz. of paint, add high temp reducer as needed for flow, keep a cat food can of reducer nearby to clean out your brush or add to the paint as it thickens. White covers so-so, lemon yellow takes at least two, and sometimes three coats. Some of the others are in between.

With white some will say to add silver, and/or black for coverage. Well, maybe. I just get it on there, and routinely double coat the white as it comes from the can--no silver or black. The second coat the next day, otherwise you're asking for crazing/wrinkling.

When possible, avoid Smoothie---the appearance of fisheyes in your paint usually means one of two things; either the surface has wax or some other contaminant on it, or the surface isn't clean enough to begin with---or if a repainted surface then Smoothie was added to the finish.

FWIW, and flame away.

This is the edited part. Regarding CJ's suggestion to wet sand and go over it again-- I think you could probably skip the sanding and just go ahead and 2nd coat. Also, the slow cure time may get you into trouble if you try to sand too soon.

[ August 20, 2003, 01:24 PM: Message edited by: Bill Preston ]

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Bill Preston
Fly Creek, N.Y. USA

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Stephen Deveau
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Thanks Bill!

My thoughts and Your Text!
[Wink]

--------------------
Stephen Deveau
RavenGraphics
Insinx Digital Displays

Letting Your Imagination Run Wild!

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Joey Madden
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If anyone thought I meant that 1-Shot can be polished with a wheel, ya dead wrong. Using a wheel on 1-Shot is not the solution, but I've done it by hand with Meguires plenty of times. 1-Shot has a cure time of 30 days manually, not counting the hardener if it were added which would lead to less of a cure time. As far as my answers in the early morning, they are running around 84% at that time. Adding penetrol which is a flow enhancer, then adding reducer is going to thin this paint and of course more coats will be needed. Best to palette with the reducer, but I wouldn't use 1-Shots Hi-Temp. Penetrol isn't needed as long as 1-shots 6000 is used. I'm not disagreeing with anyone and I'm certainly not agreeing either. As far as flaming an old man like you, Bill Preston, thats not in my bag of tricks, but being on top of your trade means staying up with all thats available for your kind of work [Smile]

--------------------
HotLines Joey Madden - pinstriping since 1952
'Perfection, its what I look for and what I live for'




http://members.tripod.com/Inflite
http://www.pinheadlounge.com/hotlinesjoeymadden

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old paint
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maybe i aint readin right....but to sand the one shot you will need to take it down past the lowest brush mark, and this will take most of what you did away. then repaint with additives to be sure you dont get brush strokes...then you still might get em!!!! painting over one shot WITH BRUSH STROKES IN IT, will only adda second coat of paint.....and the brush marks will STILL BE IN THE BOTTOM COAT...which will show thru the 2nd coat...this is like paintin the old GM cars that had laquer paint...and it was all cracked and you paint over it only to see the crackin show up!!!! hers my sugjestion....LEAVE IT ALONE, if the guy whos payin you complains about the brush marks....tell him its part of having it hand painted by AN ARTIST!!!!!heheheheheheh

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joe pribish-A SIGN MINT
2811 longleaf Dr.
pensacola, fl 32526
850-637-1519
BEWARE THE TRUTH.....YOU MAY NOT LIKE WHAT YOU FIND

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Bill Preston
Deceased


Member # 1314

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OLD MAN???????? Sheesh!

Oh, well, Joey's right.

Frankly, I am not a big fan of One Shot's high temp reducer either. Paint seems to settle overnight, and gives a "skim" at the bottom of the container the next day, then that tries to mix in again as you are painting. The automotive reducers I have used in the past don't seem to do this, but hold the paint in suspension, and allow re-use of the reducer. Also, have never been a fan of hardener, but that's just personal preference.

On the "staying on top of what's available"---I try, but I fall off a lot.

Sorry, you meant paint stuff---thought you were talking about something else.

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Bill Preston
Fly Creek, N.Y. USA

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Joey Madden
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Bill, I meant no harm in regards to you being an old man just because I'm only 39 years old. I see alot of persons your age at the mental facility where I visit and I am amazed they can still raise their voice and point at me without a maulstick in their hand [Smile]

--------------------
HotLines Joey Madden - pinstriping since 1952
'Perfection, its what I look for and what I live for'




http://members.tripod.com/Inflite
http://www.pinheadlounge.com/hotlinesjoeymadden

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Steve Estes
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Brush size doesn't matter. "It's the motion in the ocean!"

--------------------
Steve Estes
Sign Studio
Calvert City, Ky 42029

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James Donahue
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I like alot of O.P.'s last reply.

I know it won't help this time, but one thing I just about ALWAYS do on wider brushed areas is to apply the paint with a horizontal movement of the brush, followed by a vertical movement using the tip of the brush. No sags, runs, brushmarks.

Try it, (if you havn't already been doing so for years).

--------------------
James Donahue
Donahue Sign Arts
1851 E. Union Valley Rd.
Seymour TN. (865) 577-3365 brushman@nxs.net

Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what's for lunch,
Benjamin Franklin

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