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Any good souls out there familiar with auto painting - I have a bunch of questions to what paints are the best for the job. I plan on using Createx Auto Air for the flames and think I have that down pat but need help getting the bumper, plastic accessories (grill) etc spruced up. Also wondering about a broken plastic shroud (I think that is what they call it)- is there any way this can be repaired or do I have to get a new one. This is our own truck so I have room to screw up If any one is knowledgeable about this, can you email me (or post the answers here). I know I could get the info from an autobody shop, but they are not nearly as willing to share!
-------------------- “Did you ever stop to think, and forget to start again?” -Winnie the Pooh & A.A. Milne
Kelly Thorson Kel-T-Grafix 801 Main St. Holdfast, SK S0G 2H0 ktg@sasktel.net Posts: 5499 | From: Penzance, Saskatchewan | Registered: May 2002
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Kel, best to talk to a body shop supply, probably Acklands Grainger, there are different types of shroud covers, some are thermoplastic, some thermoset. They can tell you what material your shroud is by cross reference. They also are paint experts. Lord Adhesive makes a bumper repair kit, I just talked to them about aluminum adhesive. Call them in Winnipeg at 1-877-285-2032. Check to see if it is compatible with your bumper.
posted
Repairing the plastics can be interesting, due to the different types and the fact that some are textured also. If you can get it repaired, there is a plastic adhesion promotor you spray on the plastic prior to painting, after that prime and paint as per normal vehicles. Talk to a body shop or auto paint shop, they are usually very helpful.
-------------------- "Are we having fun yet?" Peter Schuttinga DZines Sign Studio 1617 Millstream rd Victoria BC V9B-6G4 Posts: 521 | From: Victoria BC | Registered: Mar 2002
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kelly....do you have someone you know who has done body work? trying to tell you how to paint a vehicle here is like trying to give you boxing lessons in text only!!! there are so many little things that we do on a vehicle to prep and sand to get it ready to paint....then there is the mixing of paint, additves, what not to do and to do.....its so much easier if you get someone to give hands on help.....for the 1st couple times....
-------------------- joe pribish-A SIGN MINT 2811 longleaf Dr. pensacola, fl 32526 850-637-1519 BEWARE THE TRUTH.....YOU MAY NOT LIKE WHAT YOU FIND Posts: 11582 | From: pensacola, fl. usa | Registered: Nov 1998
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What colour is the Truck? How much flame work?
Front to Back? Only on the sides? Hood/Bonnet/Roof?
Createx Auto is a great paint! (Easy Joey) to use but you have to know the prep and set-up to finish the job.
Are these Ghost Flames? 3-D? Outline only? Embost?
Best mask going....... Spraylat.
Test First on skin of the vehicle if it has been repainted.
Wet Sand the area that you are going to paint with no less then 600-800 Hundred Grid, With the lightest of Touch! Enough that the Clear Finish comes off! not the paint....
Make sure you cover the rest of the areas that is not going to be painted..... with 3-M masking tape as well as..Transfer or Silicone Paper.
Cover it UP!
Now draw and cut your design. I like Stabilo Graphite..And work over (Refine) with a Sharpie.
Spray preasure? I don't know as to the area!
Brush to use? That is the same on volume!/Design!
But remember to use the Heat gun as you travel with your Paint!
Remember you have to clear anything you did and make sure you use the right portions of Createx/Auto Mix.
Like to see the final outcome
I have no idea on the bumper but some great ideas here on how to fix it......
If this is any help and you like to hear more say soo... If I am full of it then tell me ( I like new insights to ways things are done..... REALLY
-------------------- Stephen Deveau RavenGraphics Insinx Digital Displays
Letting Your Imagination Run Wild! Posts: 4327 | From: Lower Sackville, Nova Scotia, Canada | Registered: Jan 2000
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I just wanted to warn you about using Createx for any outdoor applications. the color will fade dramatically in the sun even if you use a clear that blocks UV rays. I'd strongly reccomend using automotive paint to paint your flames. Mike
-------------------- Work like you don't need the money, Love like you've never been hurt, And Dance like no one's watching. :) Mike Lavallee Mike Lavallee's Pinstriping & Airbrush Art Everett, WA Posts: 449 | From: Everett, WA | Registered: Dec 1998
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Lots of replies! I'm actually going to make my 18 yr old son paint this - it will be his first real try at airbrushing, and I'll just be there to straighten him out every time he tries to take a shortcut -full time job! I showed him the truck in the step by step on tribal flames and he really likes it so we will be attempting something similar. I am going with the createx auto air paints, because I already have them from painting goalie masks. Will the actual Auto Air paints fade badly Mike? It probably won't matter as much on this 'cause it's just a learning project, but that is something I'd like to be aware of. Stephen- lots of good info - thanks! I'd sure be interested in knowing more about "ghost flames" and "embossed". Anyway we took the bumper off and one fender, cause it had a little rust (yeah right - it had a whole lot of rust hiding!) - a whole new can of worms - I guess we better start learning some autobody repair first We WILL do this!
-------------------- “Did you ever stop to think, and forget to start again?” -Winnie the Pooh & A.A. Milne
Kelly Thorson Kel-T-Grafix 801 Main St. Holdfast, SK S0G 2H0 ktg@sasktel.net Posts: 5499 | From: Penzance, Saskatchewan | Registered: May 2002
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Kelly,Mike is right...we tried at one time to sell Auto Air and had absolutely ZERO luck with...for tshirts its great stuff,for everything else it flat out sux...there's no happy medium it seems with it,it either lasts 18 months or takes a dump at 18wks.....seems like theres no telling...and i've seen plenty of panels we painted with it only get flourescent light exposure and still fade. For the size project you're looking to do,i can't see where using the stuff is gonna be that easy to work with..i know its less humid there than it is here so drying and adhesion may not be as much of a problem,but i also wouldn't count on that...if he's never sprayed anything b4 you can count on at least one re-do area just by human nature.....the auto air in all honesty isn't that bad to work with over a small area like a helmet or a goalie mask,but over a larger area it sprays not so nicely,esp if yoiure trying to cover the whole area with an airbrush..you're spraying with a cone shaped patter instead of a fan or elliptical shaped pattern so when youre covering a bigger area you're covering less in each pass and you run a bigger risk of holidays,uneven coverage,dry spots,lighter and darker areas,not to mention if you get condensation in the line youre gonna get a nice dissolved spot and crater probably b4 you can get back to it or even notice it,if its more humid that day than usual you can easily 'overwet' the second coat you put on,or if you happen to be spraying with too much air youre gonna have a grainy surface thats gonna be hard to fix after the fact....its alot harder to lay down a nice even,smooth coat with it when you're covering a large surface area than other types of paint so it makes the learning curve a little bit harder to negoitiate...particularly if you get some sags one vertical surfaces you're not gonna have the quick solvent evaporation like you would with basecoat so then you have to deal with base thats still wet maybe when youre trying to fix it...and sanding and repairing waterbase stuff if you do have spots you need to recoat isn't always as easy as repairing the same area with basecoat/clearcoat,nor will it be as blendable or easy to hide,and it's gonna give you a bigger tape edge on the flames than basecoat will. I would rather see you mask off the whole area with application tape than spraylat if you stick with the createx...thats a waterbase product just like the auto air and if you get a weak spot where you get some 'blowthru'..everyone does...and some of the moisture creeps under the liquid mask its gonna bond itself together and when you pel the mask off either part or all of the flame is gonna go with it..if you decide to go wth automotive,you don't have that worry with the mask. Also,i'm hoping you're gonna put an automotive clear over the top of it...thats a product thats gonna 'look' to bite and crosslink with whats underneath,and you can easily pull up the createx or sink enuff of the clearcoat solvent into the base to where you give it a nice textured grainy finish under the clear no matter what kinda gloss you get overall,no matter if you use the bond all and catalyst they sell. I know a lot of people feel safer for some reason spraying it b/c they feel since its a waterbased acrylic its safe....not true,it has many of the same pigments the solvent based stuff has,its just more readily and easily absorbed by the body when its waterborne. The mental intimidation factor is the biggest obstacle in getting someone to use basecoat but believe me its not very difficult and very easy to master,theres nothing magical about it you just have to stick pretty tightly to the directions,moreso than 1shot or other waterbase stuff...its very user friendly....if you can spray the auto air,automotive stuff will be very easy to pick up and easy to direct him with. Just my $.18 cents
-------------------- Gavin Chachere Plotter in the garage,New Orleans La.
"Sgts Shugart and Gordon again request permission to rope down to crash site two" Posts: 1223 | From: new orleans.la. | Registered: Mar 2000
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Steven when i say blowouts i mean areas where overspray creeps under the masking,i didnt mean failure,spraylat should no way out and out fail unless you take a pressure washer to it... but all it takes for 'creep' to happen is a couple of particles of dirt,an uneven surface or maybe cutting the shape out the mask edge weakened that one spot enuff to where some paint blew underneath when you made a pass,that kinda thing,just enuff no matter how small to give you a weak area where moisture can get underneath and it can start to weld to itself...may not be a prob up where you guys are b/c you have significantly less humidity,but it would suck to have that one very humid day the same one as the day you spray this,or have the temp drop enuff at nite for the metal on the truck to cool off to a condensation point or something like that..i've also seen liquid mask sprayed on too thin in some spots and working repeatedly over an area, esp close in with an airbrush tears it up and blasts tiny holes into it you'll never see much like sandblast mask tears up at times blasting wood. Even though you cant see em theyre big enuff to let moisture underneath and then its hell trying to figure out whats going on when you start peeling the mask off. If you've never had bleed thru or under a mask or tape edge when you've used it consider yourself very lucky cuz you're one of the very few and it usually happens exactly when you can afford it to.
-------------------- Gavin Chachere Plotter in the garage,New Orleans La.
"Sgts Shugart and Gordon again request permission to rope down to crash site two" Posts: 1223 | From: new orleans.la. | Registered: Mar 2000
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Automotive paint is SOOOOOO much EASIER to use than waterbased t-shirt paint!
It's easier to spray.. it lays down smoother and you don't have to worry about it.. just follow the directions exactly as they are on the can and you will have no problems whatsoever with it!.. and it won't fade, unless you use that crappy OMNI AU from PPG (ask me how I know about that junk!!)
-------------------- "If I share all my wisdom I won't have any left for myself."
Mike Pipes stickerpimp.com Lake Havasu, AZ mike@stickerpimp.com Posts: 8746 | From: Lake Havasu, AZ USA | Registered: Jun 2000
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Yes Alfred, the new Createx is better then the old Createx but all in all, it does fade. Stick with what really works and avoid problems in the long run. I am a vehicle artist who knows what to use without problems. Mike is a vehicle artist who knows what to use without problems. Createx is a problematic paint for use on vehicles which never sees sunlight
-------------------- HotLines Joey Madden - pinstriping since 1952 'Perfection, its what I look for and what I live for'
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If any one is knowledgeable about this, can you email me (or post the answers here). I know I could get the info from an autobody shop, but they are not nearly as willing to share! ![[Wink]](wink.gif)
![[FYI]](graemlins/fyi.gif)
Kel, best to talk to a body shop supply, probably Acklands Grainger, there are different types of shroud covers, some are thermoplastic, some thermoset. They can tell you what material your shroud is by cross reference. They also are paint experts. Lord Adhesive makes a bumper repair kit, I just talked to them about aluminum adhesive. Call them in Winnipeg at 1-877-285-2032. Check to see if it is compatible with your bumper.![[Smile]](smile.gif)
![[Applause]](graemlins/clap.gif)
![[Cool]](cool.gif)
![[Thanks]](graemlins/thanks.gif)
![[Eek!]](eek.gif)
-full time job! I showed him the truck in the step by step on tribal flames and he really likes it so we will be attempting something similar. I am going with the createx auto air paints, because I already have them from painting goalie masks. Will the actual Auto Air paints fade badly Mike? It probably won't matter as much on this 'cause it's just a learning project, but that is something I'd like to be aware of. ![[Roll Eyes]](rolleyes.gif)
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