Thought it would be good to ask he HDU gurus to publish (here, in short form) their various techniques for finishing HDU. I've given a couple of cases to initiate and ponder, but feel free to elaborate on the case-type and methodology. Remember, we're not looking for the "best" method(s), just various ones, because not all shops are on paar with one another; e.g., some have spray booths, some not.
Also, I'm not talking about final finishes either, but various prep methods per case too. OK, here's a couple of sample cases (I think will be helpful to the novice and reference for the aspiring and seasoned HDU shopsmiths).
Case 1: Raised backgrounds with either carved or blasted graphics. (Personally, I'd like to hear the pre-finish method before carving and leafing...ya know...the mask method. And what if it's an oval and re-indexing the piece is required?) Does or does not have to be a "mirror" or glass finish, but spare the orange peel.
Case 2: Raised graphics (applied, carved or blasted) with a recessed background... from smoother textured backgrounds through blasted stone texture and all, with and without leaf on graphics.
Hope everybody takes a piece of this one. I'll add my two cents here and there once the thread gets rolling. I know we've had threaded discussion about HDU and CNC and finishing recently and before, but here's a chance to pull it all together. I'll save the most constructive comments for future reference and mail/post for anyone seeking knowledge that is not carnal in nature...LOL!
Thanks. Hey ho!
-------------------- Fran Maholland Pro Sign NJ Posts: 169 | From: Voorhees, New Jersey | Registered: Feb 2003
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Hi Fran. Just to let you know that everyone isn't ignoring your thread, and to give it a bump up to the top. There was an excellent step-by-step article in SignCraft of a faux/finished Church sign made using HDF. If you go to the SignCraft site (accessible through the find a merchants link to the left of your screen), you can get a PDF copy that you can view with Acrobat Reader. I didn't try, but you could probably print it out as well. It is in the back issues section, and scroll down the listings of step-bu step articles to find it. There are some photos of the processes and steps as well that I'm sure you will find most interesting.
Hope this helps you out.
-------------------- Ken Henry Henry & Henry Signs London, Ontario Canada (519) 439-1881 e-mail: kjmlhenry@rogers.com
Why do I get all those on-line offers to sell me Viagara, when the only thing hardening is my arteries ? Posts: 2690 | From: London,Ontario, Canada | Registered: Feb 1999
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Thanks, Ken. I thought this topic would bring all the specifics of methodolgy together in one lump sum, but feel that the LHBB responds better to specific questions rather than spill your beans topics. No one, frankly, has the time to write scenarios. Neither do I. The best and most useful responses are specific questions. Then, if someone chooses to elaborate in detail, well, all the better. This might be the most significant fact to come about from this thread and appropriately re-titled: How to get the best from your Letterhead. Anyway, thanks, and yes, I know there are many articles on the previously-headlined subject. Even links would be nice, though.
-------------------- Fran Maholland Pro Sign NJ Posts: 169 | From: Voorhees, New Jersey | Registered: Feb 2003
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Day 1 Sand the face side of the HDU with 220 grit. Blow off the dust Wash off the remaining dust with hard stream of water. Let dry. Apply high tack sandblast resist to raw unpainted foam. Apply duct tape to protect edges. Blast sign. Remove duct tape. Trace sign edge with pencil. Remove rubber and cut out the final shape. Sand edges smooth. Add a little Paint Easy to a quality latex stain. Coat out entire sign with background color. Use high build primer from PB or SF on edges. When dry to the touch, flip sign and prime the back side.
Day 2 Repeat with second coat of background stain.
Day 3 Make sure sign is level laying on the bench. Use Dura Finish from Sign Foam or PB Resin from Precision Board. Follow directions for mixing. Apply to letters, graphics, borders. Average 4 x 8 will take about 2 hours.
Day 4 Paint sign edges and back. Usually before I blast the sign I will do any mounting bracket work on the back side.
Day 5 Spray two coats of Krylon Clear Acrylic on all areas with the resin. (It will not affect the look of the flat background.) When dry ...install. Some signs, depending on color and environment will get one coat of One Shot lettering enamel over the resin AFTER 24 hours cure time, instead of the Krylon.
This resin will give you a very hard VERY smooth finish... ideal for gilding. Various special affects are possible with this stuff. I will be demonstrating these techniques at the International Letterheads meet in Tomahawk next week.
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