posted
Hey Mark. 99% of my signs are done using MDO. Heres what I do. After cutting the sign to shape, seal the edges with either exterior wood putty,which I use, or caulk. I prefer the wood putty cause after drying, you can sand it smooth as silk. I use my fingers to put it on smoothing as I go. Also use a sander to round over the edges of the sign to keep the paint from creeping any away from the edges. Then prime two coats and finish coat two coats. Ive been using latex based paints for all my backgrounds for quite awhile now, and thats the way I do on all my signs. I use porter brand paint which is a top quality acrylic. Also, for the brackets, Ive been using the ones advertised in Signcraft when installing signs with square corners. They are a U bracket and work very nicely. u brackets Otherwise, I usually fabricate from angle iron and a steel blade in my jigsaw.
[ July 31, 2003, 07:57 PM: Message edited by: John Deaton III ]
-------------------- Maker of fine signs and other creative stuff. Located at 109 N. Cumberland ave. Harlan, Ky. 40831 606-837-0242 Posts: 4172 | From: Ages-Brookside, Ky. Up the Holler... | Registered: Jul 1999
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posted
I think John's comments about rounding the edges are so, so important. Make sure you do this before priming. Otherwise your sign will look like a crack-n-peel decal at the corners in no time at all.
-------------------- Best Regards, Mark Smith EstiMate Sign Pricing Software It's Not Luck. It's EstiMate.™ http://www.EstiMateSoftware.com 1-888-304-3300 Posts: 724 | From: Asheville, NC, USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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You can get details right from the manufacturer as well as how to prep MDO.
What kind of MDO is it?
is it single sided or double sided?
Primed or unprimed?
I always buy Simpson Brand MDO, I always use good 2 sides MDO and buy primed.
Sand it with 220 before first coat of primer. and as mentioned above just "break" the edge dont go putting a 1/4" rounded edge on it lol.
I never just use the primer that is on it, I always prime it again with Chromatic Metal/Wood primer, sand between each coat with 220 sand paper, then I use Chromatic Background enamel. Minimum 2 coats on primer and top coat.
The reason I buy primed is at least it has a less chance of absorbing moisture sitting in some wharehouse somewhere, the reason I never use it as is is because I dont know WHAT it is.
Now the edges, that is a tricky one, I've been trying to solve that equation for years, I've tried everything form leaving it alone to applying caulking, and just recently using titebond II exterior glue to seal the edges, minimum 2 coats, lightly sand between coats. lately I've been doing 3 coats, it dries in about 20 minutes each coat.
Dude you definetly took the hard road, you should have apprenticed, thats like the first thing I teach before even weeding hahaha
Good luck
Next cross road, smoothing the bubles out of enamel!!! lol
[ August 01, 2003, 09:33 AM: Message edited by: Bob Rochon ]
-------------------- Bob Rochon Creative Signworks Millbury, MA 508-865-7330
"Life is Like an Echo, what you put out, comes back to you." Posts: 5149 | From: Millbury, Mass. U.S. | Registered: Nov 1998
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I do the just about the same as John does except I use a router with a ¼” round over bit to break the edge and I use Tight Bond II (a tip I picked up here from Rob Larkham) to seal the edges. 2 coats applied after the edges have been rounded over and sanded. (I have also used Pelucid to seal the edges, it a product I got from Pierre)
The Tight Bond goes on straight to the edge from the container. It has a nice slot in the cap for application. I the smooth it out with a used (but dry) 1” foam brush. Just the tip has dried paint on it, so the sides work well for spreading the glue for me…
2 coats of Zessner primer (which means 4 coats on the edges). Prime one side and edges, flip over, prime side 2 and edges...ect
posted
Hey Ray, have you tried any acrylic paints on MDO? They will far outlast the enamels. Most top quality are rated at 15 to 20 years. Ive used every type of oil based out there and one shot enamels. The bulletin types never lasted long enough. I used one shots lettering enamels for my base coats for years, but decided to change over when I talked to some friends of mine who were using acrylics. Gary Anderson uses them and also sells his own line which I think is made by Porter. They dont fade out or chalk like the enamels do, and vinyl and paint both work very well on them. Give them a try sometime, but make sure its quality stuff, not the Wal Mart special.
-------------------- Maker of fine signs and other creative stuff. Located at 109 N. Cumberland ave. Harlan, Ky. 40831 606-837-0242 Posts: 4172 | From: Ages-Brookside, Ky. Up the Holler... | Registered: Jul 1999
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I have tried Dupont, PPG and Martin-Senour acrylic enamels, sprayed, but had problems with primers for it adhering. (Can you say lift?) Most of it wound up in the air anyway as overspray. I guess I tend to think of enamels more for metal and plastics than wood (paper is wood pulp after all).
I use a polyfoam brush or roller with a screw in it (so it drags) to keep out the bubbles out and can get a really smooth, durable finish from a can of Impervo. 12 years and not one has failed yet.
Latex is just generally not something I've had any luck with in the past. But then again, I could be completely wrong.....
Rapid
[ August 01, 2003, 10:43 AM: Message edited by: Ray Rheaume ]
-------------------- Ray Rheaume Rapidfire Design 543 Brushwood Road North Haverhill, NH 03774 rapidfiredesign@hotmail.com 603-787-6803
I like my paint shaken, not stirred. Posts: 5648 | From: North Haverhill, New Hampshire | Registered: Apr 2003
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