posted
anyone know a good supplier of sandblasted stone, marble, or avenite? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks
------------------ Dave Axton, owner of Signtek Graphics in Port Byron NY. Specializing in motorsports graphics and design. "I'm so messy, I have paint in places paint should never get to!"
Posts: 88 | From: Port Byron NY | Registered: Apr 1999
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posted
Hi Dave and Cheryl. I have been thinking of sandblasting some stones for my garden and to give as gifts also. (you know, to mark where peonies and other plants are going to sprout up) Any hints on stones to use? Do you use the regular sandblast mask? Thanks! I am excited to do this.....been wanting to for years. Thanks again! Cheryl
posted
Check with you local monument company (as in: tombstomes "r" us) I work with a local one on a regular basis. If you aren't wanting to go very deep the regular sandblast mask will work.
------------------ Greg Gulliford aka MetroDude Metro Signs and Banners 1403 N. Greene St. #1 Spokane, WA 99202 509-536-9452
posted
I have sandblasted a lot of marble and some granite. The granite is quite a bit harder to blast. It just takes a little longer. Like Greg says, you can use the same resist that you use for redwood. The key is to keep the nozzle moving quikly and constantly. This will make the stencil last long enough to get a good deep blast as it will prevent it from burning prematurely.
Hey, I'd like to find some stone like big, smooth river boulders or something. All we have here is limestone and iron rock.
------------------ Wayne Webb Webb Sign Studio creators of "woodesigns" "autograph your work with excellence" webbsignstudio@digitalexp.com
Posts: 7405 | From: Chipley,Florida,United States | Registered: Oct 1999
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Lately, we've been blasting mostly sandstone and pavers bricks. We use high tack sandblast stencil. Clean the surface as best you can with laquer thinner and blow it off with some air. I usually weed before applying the mask, helps to line things up. Ditto on the blasting technique already mentioned. If the stone is hard, the masking may turn black and start to blow away, that's when I encourage it to stay put with a light dose of 3m77 spray adhesive. Spray a little on both the stone and the mask, let it tack, then remind it where is's suppposed to be. (try not to use much adhesive spray, it can be a bugger to get off) If you're gonna paint the recessed areas, make sure the masking is secured around the edges of the letters,(3m77) paint and remove masking...
Good luck and have fun!
------------------ Cheryl Lucas a/k/a "Shag" on MIRC Vital Signs & Graphics, Etc. Cape Coral, Florida VSignsNgraphics@aol.com
Posts: 987 | From: Cape Coral, FL USA | Registered: Aug 2000
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posted
Check your local phone book for tile and marble stores. you can get marble slabs quarried or the kind they use in home and building culturted. Also demo copmanies are removing it and reselling the real old good stuff from building they are tearing down. If you are looking for a finished product try you local cutter for the hoods boneyard. most will blast anything that you bring in the door. for a fee some even have the latest cutter and software on thier puters. Now all we need to do is find the web site and chat room for tombstoneheads lol. Also check out www.signwebs.com the directoty of suppliers ect.
------------------ PTSideshow been there, probally done that.
Just an additions of general info: during a cruise of the tile dept at Home Depot this evening. Picking up some items happened to see that they carry 12x12" stone tile in a number of different stone and colors. Also marble sill strips for windos and doors, in assorted widths. the floor tile is about 1/2" thick. Practice suppies or fill in the blast area with a paint and flood coat it with a good quaility floor poly for deco pieces or accent for floors. Names, sports, car or whatever logos. for the person who has everything but a monogrammed marble or granite floor.
[This message has been edited by Glen Perye Jr (edited January 31, 2001).]
Posts: 120 | From: Mount Clemens,MI,USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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