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» The Letterville BullBoard » Old Archives » Tool Time series - circular saws

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Author Topic: Tool Time series - circular saws
Dana Aaron
unregistered


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Hey Nettie, great idea and perfect timing...

Currently whenever I need to use a circular saw, I borrow the DeWalt that my hubby has for his business. Unfortunately it is really big and heavy... and usually needed at the same time by both of us.

Sooooo... that means I'd better go get one of my own. I have tried a couple others (borrowed when needed) and I have found out that I need one that will follow a straight VERY easily... either that or I will have to start designing signs with wavy edges...

Suggestions?
THANKS!!!

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Dana Aaron
Sign-A-Saurus
Nevis, MN
ICQ# 37949659
It's a dog-eat-dog world... and I'm wearing milk bone underwear.



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Brad Ferguson
Resident


Member # 33

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Hi Dana,
The main cause of a wavy cut is a dull blade. If you can afford it, always buy carbide tipped blades. A good brand is Freud. The general rule of thumb about a carbide tipped blade is: It costs three times as much, but stays sharp five times as long.
Sometimes a worn 'mother' bearing will allow a blade to wiggle and cut wavy. The better the saw, the longer these bearings last before needing to be replaced. It's not an expensive repair, though.

For a lighter saw, have you thought of a trim saw? You lose a good two pounds in weight. They use a 6" blade and a smaller motor. The blade's usually mounted left of the motor, so a right-hander can see the mark better. Check to see that it can cut a 2x4 in one pass (I know the Porter-Cable can). It would be a nice companion for your big DeWalt.

I saw a reconditioned Porter-Cable trim saw in the Harbor Freight catalog today. Check your email.

Brad in Arkansas

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signbrad@cswnet.com


Posts: 1230 | From: Kansas City, MO, USA | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
jimmy chatham
Resident


Member # 525

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i have several circular saws but the 1 i use the most is my makita 18 volt saw it is not too heavy and works great. for straight cuts i have a 2 inch aluminum straght edge 8 feet long that i clamp to whatever i am cutting.
plus i don't hane to worry about cutting a cord.
jimmy

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Jimmy Chatham
Chatham Signs
164 Poplar Rd.
Commerce, Ga 30529
706-335-2348
Fax 706-335-3378
icq#11718273


Posts: 1766 | From: Commerce, GA, USA | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Nevman
Resident


Member # 332

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Hi Dana

I'll offer the same advice to you that is on Nettie's threads. Get the best. Makita, Bosch or Porter Cable. They're worth the price. Just add it into you're next 4 or 5 quotes (they'll never know ).

Some are heavier than others, but here are a coupla tricks.

Buy 4' & 8' legnths of angle-iron without holes - one each (I like aluminum but it's expensive). I use these for straight edges all of the time also.

Also get a sheet of 2" thick insulation foam - the cheap stuff and cut it to 3.5'x7.5'. Set an old piece of plywood or two 2"x4"s across your saw horses and place the foam on that. I like to have the horses lower than waist height so I can reach all the way across the panel. Then put the panel that you're cutting on the foam. C-clamp your guide to the plywood (that's why we took off the 6" from the foam). Vice grips work too but you usually have to use a piece of wood to keep the vice grips from damaging the panel.

Once the guide is in place - cut away! Be sure to keep the saw blade depth just deepenough to cut through the panel. Don't eat up your foam. On 8' legnths, you may want to work on the ground so you can 'crawl' along with the cut. Depending on the thickness of the angle iron, you may need to put push pins along the legnth of the guide (backside) to keep it from bowing.

After you figure out how to do this procedure quickly enough, you won't need the guides 'cuz by then you will be able to cut a straight line from all of the practice!!

Good luck with the purchase and use of you're saw. E-mail me if you have any other questions.

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Pat Neve, Jr.
Sign Man, Inc. Melbourne, FL
nevman@aol.com
Capt. Sign
"Strive for the stars - you just may reach the Moon"
!! Site Supporter !!



Posts: 2279 | From: Melbourne, FL, USA | Registered: Jan 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Cam Bortz
Visitor
Member # 55

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Years ago I bought a used Skil worm-drive circular saw at a flea market. Heavy as lead, but it tracks like a locomotive on long cuts.

For those who are wondering, "worm drive" is when the motor is set at a 90 degree angle from the blade, and the motor shaft turns the blade via a spiral-cut or "worm" gear. This type of drive has tremendous torque and a powerful motor. I also have a standard-drive Porter Cable circular saw (also bought used) which has very accurate depth and angle settings.

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"A wise man concerns himself with the truth, not with what people believe." - Aristotle

When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Raoul Duke (Hunter S. Thompson)

Cam
Finest Kind Signs
256 S. Broad St.
Pawcatuck, Ct. 06379
"Award winning Signs since 1988"


Posts: 3051 | From: Pawcatuck,Connecticut USA | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Brad Ferguson
Resident


Member # 33

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The foam idea is most excellent!

A couple more points to consider.
There are quick lever adjustments and then there are adjustments that take more time and effort. This may or may not be important to you.
Also, I hate safety lock outs on the trigger. After all, these aren't firearms. Why not just a label that says: "Ages twelve and up."

Brad

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signbrad@cswnet.com

[This message has been edited by Brad Ferguson (edited September 13, 1999).]


Posts: 1230 | From: Kansas City, MO, USA | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Dave Sherby
Resident


Member # 698

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If you can afford it, worm drive is the way to go. Just look at what 99% of the carpenters use. And why? Power, smooth cuts, and look where the blade is. Its on the left side of the saw instead of the right side. Much easier to see where you're cutting. (Sorry lefties)

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Dave Sherby
"Sandman"
SherWood Sign & Graphic Design
Crystal Falls, MI 49920
906-875-6201
ICQ: 21604027
sherwood@up.net


Posts: 5396 | From: Crystal Falls, MI USA | Registered: Apr 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Brian Ooms
Visitor
Member # 487

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SKIL Model 77 Wormdrive.

Its unstoppable. I used it to cut some 1 1/2 inch thick plywood, and it didnt slow down.
Put a grit blade in it and cut a bunch of 6" steel channel, into littler pieces.

It pulls about 15 amps, and is as heavy as a Buick, but if you want a saw to do it all, this is the one.

They also make a lighter version of the 77 out of Titanium,magnesium,or aluminum or something, I think its about 2 pounds lighter.

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-Slashin' Vinyl by the big lake-
Brian Ooms for
CVD -Custom Vinyl Designs ....New to it all, but tryin'!
Zigman or Vinylslasher On Mirc
ICQ 124334 ziggy@netnitco.net



Posts: 244 | From: Merrillville, IN | Registered: Dec 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Mike Duncan
Visitor
Member # 316

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I agree about the Skil 77worm drive-bought one in 1977 for about $119-and its been used pretty hard for the last 22 years and shows no sign of breaking down(probably just jinxed myself!!).I don't like the new ones-too much plastic in them.
I agree with Cam-it tracks really well-also will put 19 stiches in your shin if you "block" up the guard and aren't careful with it-don't ask me how I know-but it did hurt a little!!!! Also have a Porter Cable 6" that cuts on the same side as the 77 and I love it for lighter duty stuff.

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Mike Duncan
2315 H Street
Bellingham, WA 98225
eves 360-738-9846
days 360-671-7165
mduncan@telcomplus.net
$$ Supporter, 1998 & 1999

"Good Luck many times comes disguised as hard work."



Posts: 367 | From: Astoria, Oregon 97103 | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
   

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