posted
Hi all, I am looking for the best method of attatching ziptrack to a lexan sheet. Any ideas? Need a good attatchment without the risk of breaking the acrylic track.
Thanks in advance for your input
-------------------- Phil Giesbrecht Encore Enterprises 216 Spring Haven Close, Airdrie, Alberta, Canada T4A 1E4 403 560 1132 (cell) 403 948 2902 (fax) Posts: 1 | From: Airdrie, Alberta, Canada | Registered: Jun 2003
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The best method we have found is to measure out where the track is going, tape it into place, and apply Weld-On cement. Do one half at a time and you should be good.
Do not wiggle it around or you will leave glue tracks and if they are big enough, the become unsightly.
To insure proper spacing, make a jig out of heavy card stock or thin masonite, butt it to the top of the holding edge, and butt the upper piec to to the jig. Do not use any kind of plastic for a jig or you run the risk of gluing the jig into the track. This is not a good situation. Trust me.
Have a great one!
-------------------- Bruce Bowers
DrCAS Custom Lettering and Design Saint Cloud, Minnesota
"Things work out best for the people who make the best of the way things work out." - Art Linkletter Posts: 6464 | From: Saint Cloud, Minnesota | Registered: Jun 1999
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With the temp. differences in canada you might want to use some 1/8" alum.rivets to make sure the tracks do pop loose.I always used them when I was in salt lake city and never had tracks come loose. The alum.rivets will not hurt the tracks put steel one will plus they will rust.
That statement is untrue. Period. I have been gluing ziptrack to lexan for years. I have not been imagining it. I haven't had a failure yet. Honest.
As far as riveting goes, the extreme heat and cold will make the tracks bow out and shrink,causing the letters to slide out of place. A good adhesive will not give way. Riveting, in my opinion, is an unnecessary step and expense.
Been my experience anyways but then again, what the hell do I know? I've only been making signs for 30+ years.
-------------------- Bruce Bowers
DrCAS Custom Lettering and Design Saint Cloud, Minnesota
"Things work out best for the people who make the best of the way things work out." - Art Linkletter Posts: 6464 | From: Saint Cloud, Minnesota | Registered: Jun 1999
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OK Bruce Tell us you secret? Weld Bond? I have yet seen anything that last.
It may seem to be bonded but give it a little time and see how brittle it becomes or how it seperates(SP) But like you stated, I to have been doing this for 30 years... So have I.
Now I like to know what is the Magic Goop!
-------------------- Stephen Deveau RavenGraphics Insinx Digital Displays
Letting Your Imagination Run Wild! Posts: 4327 | From: Lower Sackville, Nova Scotia, Canada | Registered: Jan 2000
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posted
Use Weld-On #55. It is a two-part adhesive formulated for polycarbonate to acrylic and polycarbonate to polycarbonate. The down side is that the glue and the special applicator gun are both expensive. I use, in addition, plastic rivets.
Nothing lasts forever.
Brad in Kansas
-------------------- Brad Ferguson See More Signs 7931 Wornall Rd Kansas City, MO 64111 signbrad@yahoo.com 816-739-7316 Posts: 1230 | From: Kansas City, MO, USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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I find this interesting because I always use long shank rivets. No matter how nice and even or how many you use, it seems as though a letter will dip below on occasion. I hate that! Readerboards are a necesssary evil here, My artist lauughs everytime I have to do one. and I'd like to be more efficent in making them, Please share.
""Good judgment comes from experience; and a lot of that comes from bad judgment" - Will Rogers Posts: 3503 | From: Beautiful Newaygo, Michigan | Registered: Mar 2003
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