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I cut a huge decal for a customer that wanted to put it on the bow of his Thompson boat. The previous owner did lettering on the transom which sticks with no problems. I cut this silver metallic for the bow and some for the windows of his vehicle. It sticks fine on his windows but not on the boat. He has spent hours cleaning surface with everything - even light sanding the fiberglass. It still won't stick.
-------------------- Laura Butler Vision Graphics & Sign 4479 Welch Rd Attica, Mi 48412 Posts: 2855 | From: Attica, Mi, USA | Registered: Nov 2000
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I had a similar problem once. I cleaned the surface as usual- can't recall now what it was- the vinyl would not stay. Matter of fact, the masking tape wouldn't even stay in place. Finally poured rubbing alcohol on it, let it set a few minutes, wiped it down, repeated once more. Let it alone for about half hour- vinyl stuck perfectly. Hope this helps but maybe you've already tried this.
-------------------- Linda Schmidt Vital D'Signs Greers Ferry, AR signlady@ozarkisp.net Posts: 160 | From: Greers Ferry, AR | Registered: Sep 2001
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Boat wax or mold release. Don't matter what it is it won't allow vinyl to stick.
Rapid Prep. Works every time.
-------------------- Leaper of Tall buildings.. If you find my posts divisive or otherwise snarky please ignore them. If you do not know how then PM me about it and I will demonstrate. Posts: 5278 | From: Im a nowhere man | Registered: Jul 2001
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I always clean the surface of any vehicle using Fantastic and then "Final Wash" or Prepsol then quite often I will hit it with rubbing alcahol as a final step. This will usually get off anything including wax. Although my initial thought is that it has a good coat of was (which the final Wash should remove) or it could possibly have a poly coat that was applied at the factory. If this is the case you need to get a producct called "Poly Cracker" which will remove the the poly coat. I lettered a van once that had polyglycoat on it and ended up having to reletter the whole job! Not fun. Hope this helps, best of luck
Dan
-------------------- Dan E. Kearfott KEARFOTT GRAPHIX 312 W. 8th St. Gibson City, IL 60936
Success comes in "Cans", Failure comes in "Cant's" Posts: 121 | From: Gibson City, Illinois | Registered: Mar 2003
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You have to remember, "never try to letter a boat below the water line while it is in the water"! I use Ditzler 440 grease and wax remover. It is very aggresive! Auto body supply shops carry it. It cleans anything!!!! Test anything you put this stuff on first. If the rag sticks........don't use it!
-------------------- Tony Vickio The World Famous Vickio Signs 3364 Rt.329 Watkins Glen, NY 14891 t30v@vickiosigns.com 607-535-6241 http://www.vickiosigns.com Posts: 1063 | From: Watkins Glen, New York | Registered: Sep 2001
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Hey Laura. When I run into a situation like yours I break out my Porter Cable polisher and go over the area with 3m rubbing compound. That'll knock off any oxidation or other impurities that prevent adhesion. I finish preping with mineral spirits or a degreaser. Lettering should be good to go then. But like Tony says, do a test piece first. Good luck. Ray
-------------------- Ray Skaines League City, Tx www.srsigns.com Posts: 130 | From: League City, Texas | Registered: Mar 2003
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polythinner maybe but take care it's rought.. and maybe try to spray fast dry polyurethane clear(same finish as the boat).,,if this not works try rivets ...hihihihihi
-------------------- Steven Girard steven@lettragesgirard.com
-------------------- Chuck Gallagher Pro Graphics Signs by Design Cabool, MO 417.962.3291 "I grew up in Letterville" Posts: 776 | From: Cabool, Mo. USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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Hi Laura, Up until sensible communication between our fisherman and local consevation groups was lost, I usually had up to 80 trawlers a year on my list, things are much quieter now, ... anyway when I first tried using vinyl for the names on the bow, we had lots of trouble, lucky for me this time that I have more friends than customers LOL, I lost a few stickers, the glue seemed to hate the saltwater and if there was a weld or a gap in some planks where the vinyl wasn't quite stuck to, or it was stretched, the salt would get in and suddenly the "William Kelf" became the "William elf", the skipper was no elf, I don't paint much now, but I still hand write this guys boat. I don't have too much trouble now, vinyls seem to be much better. Now days I start by getting the hose and a bit of kitchen creme cleanser ('JIF') and giving the surfaces a good scrub from the start, after it dries then I get it with the wax and grease remover, very seriously in joins or tight spots. I always apply vinyl dry and try to allow any fresh paint to breathe for a day at least before applying it. On older wooden boats where the chalking has sunk into the gap between the planks, I fill it with clear "sika-flex", a water proof sealer, theres always some on a boat. Sometimes have used a painted outline to make myself feel safe. I'm guilty ( through necessity only ) of using real estate vinyl on the hull of a speed boat that gets a work out most week-ends, but it's still there after 2 years. If the fibreglass is the ripply kind, I found that a quick blast with a heat gun helps conforms the vinyl to the surface. Anyhows...goodluck...Rik
-------------------- Rik Russell, RIK THE SIGNWRITER Innisfail, NQ. Australia rikthesignwriter@msn.com Posts: 28 | From: Innisfail, NQ. Australia | Registered: Jun 2003
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I'm with Ray and Curtis. Rubbing compound to get off oxidation, etc. and Rapid Prep. Sometimes use isopropyl alcohol when even the masking tape won't stick, but since using Rapid Prep haven't needed to. Also, when I installed a large metallic decal for a boat dealer, it was a factory supplied decal and the vinyl was different from what I'm used to. The first side got too slippery with regular Rapid Tac so on the second side I used a light spray of Rapid Tac II (the blue stuff) it worked great. Rapid Tac II makes the vinyl stick more.
-------------------- Dawn Ellis Signs by Dawn Long Beach, CA signsbydawn@aol.com
Trust yourself. Listen to the voice within. It is always right. Posts: 456 | From: Long Beach, California | Registered: Jan 2003
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Perhaps orientation to the sun, or more oxidation buildup or more wax residue from being polished. I sometimes notice a difference from one side to the other and which side faces the sun more.
-------------------- Dawn Ellis Signs by Dawn Long Beach, CA signsbydawn@aol.com
Trust yourself. Listen to the voice within. It is always right. Posts: 456 | From: Long Beach, California | Registered: Jan 2003
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Laura, a local boat yard polishes their boats with a one step combination compound/wax. Can be a little misleading. If someone says the boat is compounded and polished doesn't mean it's wax free. Don't know if there is a absolute right answer for your situation. Just sounds like whatever is in the pours of the gelcoat is the real problem. Ray
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... anyway when I first tried using vinyl for the names on the bow, we had lots of trouble, lucky for me this time that I have more friends than customers LOL, I lost a few stickers, the glue seemed to hate the saltwater and if there was a weld or a gap in some planks where the vinyl wasn't quite stuck to, or it was stretched, the salt would get in and suddenly the "William Kelf" became the "William elf", the skipper was no elf, I don't paint much now, but I still hand write this guys boat. I don't have too much trouble now, vinyls seem to be much better.
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