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» The Letterville BullBoard » Old Archives » Panels-One Shot?

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Author Topic: Panels-One Shot?
ShaneMussche
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Member # 3028

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I am going to attempt my first panel. When I do striping I use a flow agent but is it neccessary for lettering and general sign art. Do you guys just use the one shot straight out of the can for that stuff? Thanks

Shane

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Shane Mussche
Sin Custom Graphics
Hamilton Ontario

Posts: 52 | From: Hamilton, Ontario | Registered: Jun 2002  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Kissymatina Kissymatina has just turned 47
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Member # 2028

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One-shot makes reducers. There is regular, low temp and high temp. As I am slow, I like hi-temp. I wouldn't use one-shot straight although I have seen some people do this.

There are others that know a lot more than me about this, hopefully they chime in here.

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Chris Welker
Wildfire Signs
Indiana, Pa

Posts: 4254 | From: Indiana, PA | Registered: Mar 2001  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
James Donahue
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Member # 3624

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I'll assume you're talking about lettering and graphics.

For years I had wrong thinking about this. I thought that to get the performance I wanted, I had to go from thick and sticky to thin and flowing. Not so. What you need is to go from thick and sticky to THICK AND SLICK!
THe way I accomplish this is with a careful amount of boiled linseed oil, but I think Penatrol will also work. I usually also add a few drops of quality thinner. I have a modified plastic soda bottle that has a very small hole made into the cap. This allows for adding thinner one drop at a time.(Be careful toddlers don't think this is pop.)
The reason for leaving it thick is to get better coverage. When I say quality thinners, I'm talking about something other than average mineral spirits.
Something I myself could use help with is knowing whether or not the "synthetic enamel" sold at automotive paint stores is really just glorified alkyd (oil based) paint. All my current indicators say pretty strongly that it is. It's what the old auto painters call "straight enamel". If it is alkyd, then the reducers could be quality stuff.

Hmmm, who'd know? Maybe Timmy. You out there?

Another trick that I just love to pieces: Don't just use a dixie cup (non-waxed) the way it is, 'cept on larger letters. On smaller stuff, cut the cup down to 3/4" tall or even less. the sharper edge will give you more control over how you remove paint from the brush. You can cut it in such a way as to leave the seam of the cup intact,(tall) to use as a little palleting place.

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James Donahue
Donahue Sign Arts
1851 E. Union Valley Rd.
Seymour TN. (865) 577-3365 brushman@nxs.net

Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what's for lunch,
Benjamin Franklin

Posts: 2057 | From: 1033 W. Union Valley Rd. | Registered: Feb 2003  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Stephen Faulkner
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I like the line of thinners, hardener and flow enhancer from One Shot. I also like terpentine(sp) for a thinner rather than mineral spirits it seems to have a better gloss. I use minneral spirits for cleaning my brushes.

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"No excuses!.... No regrets!..."

GEET
www.goldrushsigns.com
known associate... pinstripermafia.com

Posts: 724 | From: Florissant, CO | Registered: Dec 2001  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
George Perkins
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Reducing One Shot for striping or lettering is pretty much the same, a little heavier for the lettering but not much. If you stripe, you've already got it figured out. I pretty much stick with the One Shot reducers and when it gets warm ad a little Penetrol. One Shot straight out of the can does work but it depends on the atmospheric conditions, around here that's five days in a year maybe [Smile]

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George Perkins
Millington,TN.
goatwell@bigriver.net

"I started out with nothing and still have most of it left"

www.perkinsartworks.com

Posts: 4327 | From: Millington, TN. USA | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Tim Barrow
Deceased


Member # 576

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George is right about atmospheric conditions,...I use an appropriate thinner in a separate cup and then dip my brush in the paint and then pallette it on a slick piece of paper to make sure it has good coverage and the correct amount of drag for brush control,diping my brush in the thinner as little as possible to adjust to my comfort....often as not I will add penetrol by the drop to an oz. or so of paint to get it to flow out and hide brush strokes. Just like striping you have to adjust your paint mixture to the weather as there will be a totally different mix on a july day in the sun and a 70 degree day in the winter shop,....

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fly low...timi/NC is,
Tim Barrow
Barrow Art Signs
Winston-Salem,NC

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Bob Stephens
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I used Naptha or as it was formerly known as Benzine for my entire career. So long as you can work the paint to the proper consistency is all that matters.

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Bob Stephens
Skywatch Signs
Zephyrhills, FL

www.skywatchsigns.com
www.skywatchgallery.com

Posts: 2481 | From: Zephyrhills, Florida | Registered: Jun 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
ShaneMussche
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Member # 3028

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Okay thanks guys/gals I usually use penetrol for my striping. So..I'll try that first. Gonna do up a novelty sign for my Pop. I just didn't know if I should reduce letters and graphics as well. Thanks again.

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Shane Mussche
Sin Custom Graphics
Hamilton Ontario

Posts: 52 | From: Hamilton, Ontario | Registered: Jun 2002  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
   

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