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This is basically a post to update you on my progress on learning to use an airbrush.
The task is to produce flames on vinyl,(yellow) a blend of red, orange, yellow then blue. I had plenty of lead time as the car it is to be applied to was not available until last Friday. By Thursday night, everything was done with the exception of the clear coat (Krylon). I laid everything out and started spraying. Assuming from the blotchy-orange peel result which ruined the appearance of my hard work, I was spraying too close, too heavy... After seeing my project seemingly melt before my very eyes, I sat the spray can down and walked away. I phoned the customer and gave them the bad news that I had botched the flames, they were understanding and said to phone them when I'm ready. (thank goodness)
Well, through this learning curve, I was just wondering if any of you make as big of a mess as I do? And if not, why not? We're talking about a small setup here, one airbrush, a half a dozen small bottles, one cap with a feeder tube, one cup, etc. (the basic starter kit) I tried using the cup, it was a real mess to change the colors; pull the cup off and the paint left in the brush drips out. It was less of a mess for me to use the bottles, then dealing with cleaning out the feeder tube before submerging it into another color. Any suggestions here?
Also, storing mixed paints. I'm using Oneshot for this job and I've found that leaving the thinned down paints in the bottles for more than a couple of days creates a skin. Someone mentioned using those little squirt bottles, stored upside down. What happens when you shake them up before use? Is it best not to use Oneshot if I want to store a mixed color? Then what?
For this project, I've sprayed the vinyl with Frog Juice prior to cutting it. Has anyone sprayed it after cutting, with positive results? I guess I'm asking this question since I measured short once.
I found it difficult to blend from red to orange, the red kept a hard edge. Finally, I decided to lessen the width of red and carry a light mist of red through where the orange was supposed to be. This created the orange color. Then I followed that up with a mist of orange, fading it out into the yellow.
For those you that don't use the airbrush on a continous basis, I'm wondering what kind of setup you have. Are you like me, and drag all the stuff out and go at it? If I pursue more airbrush work, I'll need a better setup.
A special thanks to all who've helped me thus far, hope I make you proud! I'll be sure to post a pic of the finished product!
Cher.
------------------ Cheryl Lucas a/k/a "Shag" on MIRC Vital Signs & Graphics, Etc. Cape Coral, Florida VSignsNgraphics@aol.com
Posts: 987 | From: Cape Coral, FL USA | Registered: Aug 2000
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posted
I am far from an airbrush expert but you may want to try Createx Auto air on the vinyl so you dont have to use the vinyl primer. Of course I like the way One shot sprays better but you I dont use it on vinyl. Also for the flmae blend, I have found that it is easier to get a good blend spraying wet on wet. Carry the yellow farther than you want it to end up then overlap with your next colors. Im sure a pro can give a lot better pointers. Good luck
------------------ Brian Stoddard Expressions Signs A few puddles east of Seattle
Posts: 790 | From: Monroe, WA | Registered: Nov 1998
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I airbrush with 1shot all the time. You don't SAVE 1shot for the airbrush.. just mix what you need and what ever is left is discarded... or you can let it skin over and use it some other day for some other purpose.. I only use the color cup.. no bottles... Here's how you change colors w/a color cup. I spray with about 40 PSI. When I've finished with one color.. I pour it back into the container I mixed it in. Then I hold a rag over the tip of the airbrush, gently depress the trigger to backflush any residual paint from inside the airbrush being careful not to look into the color cup while doing this... usually a little paint comes back into the cup and I pour this back into the mixing cup. Next I run Mineral Spirits thru the color cup.. maybe 3 times. Ready for next color. I don't like messing with bottles. I also don't like airbrushing any water base media. I never clear my airbrushing so I can't help you with that. I always airbrush wet into wet. LE
------------------ LazyEdna in RL known as Sara Straw from southern Utah 5 National Parks within 3 hours drive Red Rock Heaven
Posts: 776 | From: Aurora, Utah, USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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Sorry to hear about the mess. I do some airbrush with OneShot and have not had any problems. I do have a couple of questions for you. 1)What kind/brand/model airbrush do you have 2)What size needle are you using (it makes a difference). A friend of mine tried to shoot 1 Shot and couldn't 'cuz he had a Paasche brush that is only used for fine detail work with inks and fine paint. It was a huge mess! 3)Is your brush clean?
After I shoot 1 Shot, I shoot some mineral spirits thru it until it shoots clear, then I remove the needle and wipe that down and shoot a little more mineral spirits (needle is still out)and then I finish it up with a shot of WD-40 sprayed thru it. This keeps the brush lubricated and clean for next time. I learned this WD-40 thing from a master airbrush artist. I have yet to replace o-rings, or needles in my brush since doing this. Also, because of the skinning over of 1 Shot, LazyEdna is right, get rid of it. If you try to take just the skin out of the bottle "it ain't gonna happen". You will have some residue that will end up on your needle tip and cause your brush to sputter or not work at all. Anyway, hope this helps and if you have any more questions please e-mail me at home screamingbeavergraphics@yahoo.com or heygargoyle@aol.com
Thanks!
------------------
Posts: 268 | From: Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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Sorry about your luck Yes I'm sure all of us have made a mess now and then. Thats how you learn. Even when you do just as some-one has asked you to , it still happens. On your mix colors.... Keep a record on how you mix them. If you like how it came out keep the record, if not.... Throw away the un used paint. Now you ahve a record of it so you don't need it later. Enjoy airbrush'n is a blast
------------------ Ed CJ Williams CJ Graffx Christiana,Pa. cjgraffx@epix.net Just have'n fun....
posted
Hi Cheryl It really doesn't matter on the medium you are using for the artwork..One Shot or Auto Air. With One Shot I put a small drop or two of hardener in the paint for quick drying time.. Scuff the surface with the scotchpad and wipe clean.. Airbrush your blends wet to wet as this allow the paint (either one) to dry at the same rate...One colour is not trying to bite into the other with different drying times. As for the clearcoating...If you spray to much at once this will soften the vinyl and make it turn into Orange peel.. The clearcoating is something that has to be done in stages...From left to right a fine misting (Top to Bottom) allow time for it to sit and cure properly. Next after curing spray from top to bottom from left to right and let cure..Cross hatching the clearcoat.. let it sit and dry as well.. Don't rush the finish work as you burn the material (2 mil is not much between it and the adhesve) Work it slow and light on the spraying. Once it's cured to the point of finger testing just a small amount of tack then (Weed as the clearcoating will seal the edges of the cuts and you will be back to square one again!)
Hope this helps!
Raven/2001
------------------ Raven/2000 Airbrushed by Raven Lower sackville N.S. deveausdiscovery@sprint.ca
Posts: 4327 | From: Lower Sackville, Nova Scotia, Canada | Registered: Jan 2000
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Stephen...I don't use the same paint materials as you folks..but....I agree totally with you on the clearcoating..... 2 or 3 light coats are a LOT better than layin on one heavy coat!...AND you can have a beer between coats to time the process!!!!!!
------------------ Dave Grundy shop#340 AKA "applicator" on mIRC "stickin' sticky stuff to valuable vessels and vehicles!" in Granton, Ontario, Canada 1-519-225-2634 dave.grundy@quadro.net www.quadro.net/~shirley "A PROUD $ supporter of the website"
posted
You don't need a whole lot for a quick setup. The key to it not being a mess is to have your one shot in the squeeze bottles and make sure to have a small dipping can (1 lb coffee can or small jar) to dip the end of your gun when you're cleaning it. Two rags, one takes the heavier paint off the other is a finisher. Remember to leave the air on and rock back and fourth, controlling the paint. Try to make sure there is a length of air hose between your airbrush hose and the compressor and keep at least 40 to 60 psi. Let us know how you do!
------------------ Robert "Bobby" Salyers Airbrush & Graphics Studio Clearwater, FL website:http://airbrushbobby.com
He put in your heart certain wishes and plans, in my heart he put other and different desires. Each man is good in his sight. It is not necessary for eagles to be crows.---Sitting Bull
Posts: 505 | From: Clearwater Florida USA | Registered: Feb 1999
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I wasn't sure when you said you clearcoated before cutting the vinyl if you are using fj on the vinyl, then painting, and then clearing again. The fg helps the paint stick to the vinyl, but when you clear coat the paint the fj will react with the layer under the paint, and it will orange peel. Some get around this by mixing fj with the paint before spraying, and then a light clearcoat after.
I wouldn't clean my brush between steps, and I would just use the paint cup. I would start with yellow, dump what I don't need, add orange & spray off to the side till the next color comes out, then switch to red the same way. You can work quickly and get a nicer blend this way. I would buff the vinyl, cut it, spray it (with a little fg in the paint), let it dry, clearcoat lightly, then heavier and then weed.
Another hint I stole from Dave Grundy was to make your own airbrush bottles out of film canisters. I like the clear ones. You need some plastic tubes (the ones in windex spray bottles work perfectly) cut them to the desired length. Drill a small hole in the middle of the lids, poke your tube thru and walla!!!! Don't forget to poke another small hole in the lid to let air in. These work like a charm, and then you just dump them and soak them in cleaner.
Good luck.
Sue
------------------ "It is never too late to be what you might have been." -George Eliot
Suelynn Sedor Sedor Signs Carnduff, Sk Canada
Posts: 2863 | From: Carnduff, SK Canada | Registered: Nov 1998
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John, I'm using a Paasche VL with a #1 needle. I've been experimenting with thinning the OneShot with mineral spirits with good success. Air pressure is set at 40 lbs. and produces a fine, even mist. To the best of my knowledge, I've kept the airbrush cleen. Between colors, I spray mineral spirits through it, remove and clean the needle. I've been spraying wet on wet.
Stephen,
quote:Scuff the surface with the scotchpad and wipe clean..
When using OneShot, are you saying that you eliminate applying Frog Juice (primer) by scuffing the surface? Should I scuff the surface prior to Frog Juice anyway?
I was using alcahol to clean before Frog Juice and after plotting. (prior to painting) I was experiencing some contamination, fine streaks that sorta looked like wipe lines. Looked like I didn't dry it off completely and/or there was still fluid laying in the cut lines and when the air hit it, out it went, creating neat swooshy designs. Could have passed for an artsy flare! haha I'm gonna try RapidPrep this time, instead of alcahol.
Mr. Grundy: Next time, I'll have some iced down silver sodas on hand! I will not forget to apply a light mist of clear coat, 2 or 3 times, allowing drying time between coats.
Thanks again for all your help! Cher.
------------------ Cheryl Lucas a/k/a "Shag" on MIRC Vital Signs & Graphics, Etc. Cape Coral, Florida VSignsNgraphics@aol.com
Posts: 987 | From: Cape Coral, FL USA | Registered: Aug 2000
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fear not this project is not as difficult as it now seems to you here's how I would attack the problem. 1st I would strongly reccomend using Iwatta's eclips airbrush either the kind where you use the bottles or the HP-CS with the big cup on the top W/cover to prevent those spills that you mentioned. now to get a good blend from one color to the other I'd work wet on wet or at least wet on slightly tacky ( we're talking the use of one shot here )
pre mix your colors in cups or bottles,
step 1. make sure your vinyl is clean and free of hand oils and such,
step 2. roll your first color on and let it tack up ( not dry ) completely cover your unweeded vinyl with the 1st color at the same consistancy you'd paint a sign with, then let it sit for a few minutes to tack up, but not dry. ( we let it tack up so your next sprayed on colors don't just melt into the 1st color. but if you let the 1st coat dry, the sprayed on colors will look less glossy. ) I'd use the yellow first if it we're me.
step 3. take your next darkest color and start from the tips of the flames and blend back towards the front ( where they start from ) blend about 2 thirds of the way back until you have a nice transition from orange to yellow. ( it may help to make yourself a nice blend of colors pre mixed also ).
step 4. now while the 2nd color is still wet, do the same thing with the next darkest color only don't blend as far down the orange as you did with the orange down the yellow.
then do the next darkest color and then the next keeping in mind that you want to see less and less of each succesive color till the last color is just barely on the tips. then weed the vinyl while its still tacky so you don't have a paint bridge between the flames and the weeded background.
well I hope that helped you. good luck! and lets see pictures! Mike
------------------ Work like you don't need the money, Love like you've never been hurt, And Dance like no one's watching. :) Mike Lavallee Mike Lavallee's Pinstriping & Airbrush Art Everett, WA
Posts: 449 | From: Everett, WA | Registered: Dec 1998
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posted
I would use your #3 tip Cher. The size of the needles is relative to the viscosity paint that you use. I use my #1 tips with inks and #3 for most other. I hardly use my #5.
------------------ Robert "Bobby" Salyers Airbrush & Graphics Studio Clearwater, FL website:http://airbrushbobby.com
He put in your heart certain wishes and plans, in my heart he put other and different desires. Each man is good in his sight. It is not necessary for eagles to be crows.---Sitting Bull
Posts: 505 | From: Clearwater Florida USA | Registered: Feb 1999
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I'm with Bobby on the paasche tip/needles. I use my #3 needle, cone and aircap most of the time, but I also have the #1 needle and cone setup with the #3 aircap which widens and softens the spray pattern while restricting the paint flow (for really close-up stuff without blowing the paint all over the surface). I have a 3rd VL with the #5 setup and like Bobby, I rarely ever use it. If I use the #5 it's to spray those little bottles of touch-up paint they sell to match OEM paint on autos. Sometimes customers want their windshield lettering painted to an exact match of their vehicle... heh.. even though it only costs me a couple extra $$$, they do pay dearly for it. =)
------------------ Mike Pipes -----trapped in a box with a computer and a slice of cheese-----
Posts: 145 | From: Lake Havasu City, AZ | Registered: Dec 2000
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