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I'm about to have to letter some sandblasted redwood signs that I have used a quality opaque white stain for the background. In the past I have used Oneshot bulletin for the backgroud and Oneshot lettering enamel for everything else. The customer has requested that I use a stain to fit in with her historic guidelines concerning the buildings that the signs are for. My question is this.... Should I prime the area that is to be lettered with a white enamel before lettering? My concern is that the Oneshot might not "stick" to the stained wood without it. Any advice on paint choices is greatly appreciated.
-------------------- Lee McKee McKee Studios Birmingham, Al Planet Earth (sometimes) Posts: 277 | From: Birmingham, Al | Registered: Jan 2003
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We do it all the time on natural background redwood sandblasted signs. We just use chromatic fast dry blockout on the letter and areas to be painted. Hope this helps.
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So Steve, You are saying that you use the blockout over stained Redwood and then letter with enamel? I guess what I'm saying is that the signs are already stained white, would you then use blockout before lettering enamel or just letter over the opaque stain? Thanks for your help by the way.
-------------------- Lee McKee McKee Studios Birmingham, Al Planet Earth (sometimes) Posts: 277 | From: Birmingham, Al | Registered: Jan 2003
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You didn't say what kind of stain you are using but I'll relay my experience. I stained a sign with SignLife stain and painted One Shot lettering enamel over it. The One Shot lasted longer than redwood with a paint primer ever did. I was amazed at how well the One Shot stuck to it and looked perfect for the life of the sign. Sign Life is an oil stain by the way. On redwood I'd use an oil stain instead of paint primer any day.
-------------------- Dave Sherby "Sandman" SherWood Sign & Graphic Design Crystal Falls, MI 49920 906-875-6201 sherwoodsign@sbcglobal.net Posts: 5403 | From: Crystal Falls, MI USA | Registered: Apr 1999
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Thanks Dave! I tend to think like you when it comes to the stain being better than a primer. The stain I used was a quality oil based product used on houses for the most part. I like the idea that there is no chance for the stain to ever peel or crack over time. I even used the stain on the posts for this sign as well. I think the matte finish of the white stain will help make the gloss lettering "pop". Thanks for your help.
-------------------- Lee McKee McKee Studios Birmingham, Al Planet Earth (sometimes) Posts: 277 | From: Birmingham, Al | Registered: Jan 2003
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Be aware of the possibility of extractive bleed. If the panel is already stained, I would try at least one coat of an oil-based stain blocking primer (like Zinsser Cover Stain) on the lettered areas before I put down my 1-Shot - especially if your lettering is done in a light color. If you have not stained the panel, you may want to prime the entire panel before doing so. Cabot makes a product called Problem Solver that would be ideal.
Also, make sure you back prime/seal the panel... that is if there is a ‘back’ to the sign. Solid stains can in fact blister and peel if moisture gets behind the finish.
Oh, and one last thing... do a test first! The proof is in the puddin'... or something like that.
Good Luck,
Marty
[ April 20, 2003, 07:51 AM: Message edited by: Marty Engel ]
-------------------- Marty Engel Berkley, MI Hill Mountain Signworks LLC
marty@hillmountain.com 248-890-8265 Posts: 58 | From: Berkley, MI | Registered: Dec 2002
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thanks for the common sense posts on finishes using oil based and water-based, steve an monte. i am currently working on a redwood project with a sandblasted background,stained. then painted and gold leaf top surfaces.
after i get the face back from the sandblaster, i will prime the "top" Surfaces with a good oil based primer. after it is dry i will lay in min-wax wood conditioner to the blasted areas(second level) next i will rag in a cherry stain(min-wax)
after coloring and gilding, a coat of helmsman spar urethane.(min-wax)
just my take on the project, not the rule.
experiment on cut-off pieces first if un-sure.
hope this helps.
bubba
[ April 21, 2003, 09:04 PM: Message edited by: Mark Fair Signs ]
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