posted
I've not had any experience with window splashes or painting on glass. A lady in town wants her shop logo painted on her window. So it's not a temporary thing.
How do I prep the glass to make sure it's not got something on it that would ruin my paint job? Alcohol?
How do you decide whether to paint on the inside or outside. I'd rather not work in reverse so outside would be better for me, but it's suppose to rain and be cold all week and it would be nice to work inside since I can't work on our mural project this week.
I'll use a paint mask for the lettering. And then freehand the rest of the design. What would happen if you painted the design on the outside with One Shot flattened with talcum powder (are we talking baby powder here, or something more purely talcum?) and then went on the inside and painted a white background?
I don't have time to order special window paints. It's either house paint, acrylics or something from Wal-Mart, or One Shot. I'd love to just use latex house paint, only because I have "enamel fear". I always have some problem or other with it! Usually bubbles or orange peel.
You can put One Shot straight over flat white latex house paint, right?
I know Adrienne uses tempera paint, but why?
-------------------- Penny Baugh Lee Edmund Spyro Design Group
Spyro Graphics 3458 Main Street, East Fort Payne, AL 35968
I could answer your questions better if I knew what the logo looked like.
Is it simple, sillouette like...or really detailed with lots of fussy stuff?
There are lots of alternatives.
I feel your pain regarding cold and nasty outside, but it will look better if on the outside of the glass.
One Shot goes really nice on glass. I don't have a lot of experience with One Shot on glass though...but what I have done I don't remember putting any base paint behind it and it turned out fine.
You might just get an old window pane and experiment at home.
posted
did you check to see if the glass is tinted? if it is and you paint white on the inside from outside it will look gray. on shot is what you want to use. ive done windows with it and they last 5-7 years. i dont think the "enamel/lead" hype is that bad...only if you eat the paint. so dont eat any. i dont know any old signpainters who ever died from lead poisoning.
-------------------- joe pribish-A SIGN MINT 2811 longleaf Dr. pensacola, fl 32526 850-637-1519 BEWARE THE TRUTH.....YOU MAY NOT LIKE WHAT YOU FIND Posts: 11582 | From: pensacola, fl. usa | Registered: Nov 1998
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I'm still in the process of design. You're right OP, I'm not worried about the One Shot harming me, we've got an old sign painter around here who must be pushing 90!
Adrienne, do you use a work table when you set up to paint or just an area on the drop cloth for your stuff?
-------------------- Penny Baugh Lee Edmund Spyro Design Group
Spyro Graphics 3458 Main Street, East Fort Payne, AL 35968
posted
Hi Penny, oil based paint is all we ever used on glass for permanent signage before vinyl took over. Normally it would go on the inside though, as it lasts just so much longer. Not all colors will cover the same, brilliant blue for example is really bad. Of course you could get a transparent look if you wanted that, but you would have to dab the paint (with a round brush) evenly to make it look good, if not you should back it up. Question is, why not go with vinyl, as it is just so much easier and faster.
posted
For permanent Lettering I would suggest nothing but One Shot, that what is made for. You can paint it over latex , but why ? I have done window promos using that technique, but when it comes to logos/clean lettering etc. stick with lettering enamel. Now if you were looking for a base coat in white you could use One Shot Poster White, that is a technique I have used in painting light letters on dark awnings. I used to use nothing but Bon-Ami for years when doing glass, and never had a failure. Scrub it on wet, let dry, and wipe off. When I use masks, I usually remove them as soon as possible. You roll paint on and "tip-off" using brush for smooth finish. Oh,yeah, have fun!
-------------------- Rich Stebbing RichSigns Rohnert Park CA 707-795-5588 Posts: 755 | From: Rohnert Park, CA | Registered: Nov 1998
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if your not sure how clean the window is....you know those china markers, the paper wraped and you pull the string to unwrap more of the marker. if you can lay a line with this and have no "skips"(places it wont write on)then you got a clean window and the one shot will stick well. i have had windows that i painted and the only way to get them totally clean was with bon ami and one of those 3M green stratch pads. if the china marker wont write on it, it aint clean!!
-------------------- joe pribish-A SIGN MINT 2811 longleaf Dr. pensacola, fl 32526 850-637-1519 BEWARE THE TRUTH.....YOU MAY NOT LIKE WHAT YOU FIND Posts: 11582 | From: pensacola, fl. usa | Registered: Nov 1998
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Adrienne, I talked to O.P. by phone a while ago, well, I think O.P. must get the worst jobs in the nation, the glass he says hes talkin bout is REAL BAD !
I told him about a "stain remover type of compound" or, replace the glass !
Too much time, effort, and risk for me.
Roger
-------------------- Roger Bailey Rapid Tac Incorporated 186 Combs Dr. Merlin Oregon 97532 Posts: 3020 | From: Merlin Oregon | Registered: Dec 1998
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OP. that was cool! (the tip about the china marker) I've done more windows than I can count, and that makes alot of sense.
Penny, just before computers came on the scene, there was a tecnique that was used alot. It's called cut and roll. I still use it when appropriate. You get some transfer paper, lay it out flat and wide enough to cover the area of your logo or artwork. Then you draw or pounce the design onto the paper that's stuck on the glass. Using an exacto knife, cut out the areas to be painted. peel them up, and paint in the exposed glass with mini roller, spray, brush, sponge, or a combination of these. It's fast and expands your abilities. Can make a job that's blah a little funner. Also, I have an obscure little paperback book about window painting that describes a method called "stippling". After the paint was applied ( probably one or two letters at a time) they used a stick that had a cotton ball with cloth wrapped around it on the end. If I recall, the "ball" was used to smooth out brush marks and give it a translucent look. I've only done it once or twice. What I did to get the same look on the front of my shop is mix in binder with the paint. With one-shot, linseed oil or varnish is close enough. You don't want to try it with thinner, the paint will just run and look dull. The idea is to maintain thickness while spreading the pigments apart. This gives it the translucent look. I must confess, I used that method on the background effects, not the letters. On the letters, I waited 'till night and no cars, then sprayed the letters. THe effect is very nice, modesty aside. It has the look of a warm, cozy, Old word pub when lit from behind with ordinary incandescent lighting. (Ee-Gads! I'm a Christian, can I get away with that?) Besides I don't even know if pubs back there have window lettering. I knew an old Mexican guy that used the term "MUCHO BLAH-BLAH". Sorry if that's how this sounds, just neat stuff. Jim.
-------------------- James Donahue Donahue Sign Arts 1851 E. Union Valley Rd. Seymour TN. (865) 577-3365 brushman@nxs.net
Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what's for lunch, Benjamin Franklin Posts: 2057 | From: 1033 W. Union Valley Rd. | Registered: Feb 2003
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rian if you put stratches in a window with a 3M pad....you did it way to long......all iam sayin is with the 3M pad wet just wipe the window with it ONE TIME!!!!!
-------------------- joe pribish-A SIGN MINT 2811 longleaf Dr. pensacola, fl 32526 850-637-1519 BEWARE THE TRUTH.....YOU MAY NOT LIKE WHAT YOU FIND Posts: 11582 | From: pensacola, fl. usa | Registered: Nov 1998
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