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I've been painting helmets in the winter when I have time. Mostly for friends and family just because I like doing them. The helmet looks good when I'm done but when I clear it-the paint gets all funky and chunky looking. Everything I have learned so far is self taught or trial and error or stuff I've pickup up. I know all about the sanding and that stuff, but when I clear that is when it all goes to sh**. I use one shot paints. Any help? And what exactly is baking them?
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Your 1-shot isnt setting up enough for the clear coat. Your paint may be applied to thick and isnt cured or the clear coat that your using may be incompatible with the 1-shot. If you clear coat gets hot it might be reacting with the enamel and causing it to shrivel up, crinkle, or turn a puke green color.
Shoule be many articles here about the proper materials to use on helmets. Always use compatible paints and clears.
-------------------- Bob Stephens Skywatch Signs Zephyrhills, FL
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Amy, I'm assuming you are using automotive clears. Whenever I am going to clear 1 Shot, I always put a few drops of the automotive hardener that I'm using, in with the 1 Shot. Mix it in a small waxless (3 oz. dixie) cup, not the entire can. Mix well, start brushing, and thinning as you normally would. It might be a good idea to let it set up over night When applying the clear coat, do a couple of very light "dust" coats, before laying on a good, final coat. Allow time between each coat for it to tack up. That has been my experience.
-------------------- Luke S. Luke Scanlan Artistry Ocala, Fl. lukescanlan@cox.net Posts: 249 | From: Ocala, Florida | Registered: Nov 2001
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Use the right paint for the job. Get in touch with a House of Kolor vender!!! Stop using 1-Shot for cleared parts. I have tried all of the tips and tricks to make it work with no success. The majority of my work is helmets so if you would like to give me a buzz please do so. I will answer as many of your questions as I can. Sorry Frank M. if you happen to drop in and see this post. I still use 1-shot for all of my non cleared needs but if it needs clear its HOK all the way.
-------------------- Ryan Young Indocil Art & Design indocil@comporium.net 803-980-6765
I highjacked Letterville!! Winter Muster 2004 Posts: 904 | From: Rock Hill, SC | Registered: Sep 2001
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Amy hasn't stated just what clear she is using. That may be the problem. Clearing over One Shot with an auto urethane has been discussed many times on here. There are a lot of folks that say it can not be done. Then there are folks like Gary and myself that do it all the time. ( Gary, I don't use any hardner either ) The success in clearing over One Shot is in the application. I won't go into whether i's the proper paint to use under clear but it's worked for me for twenty years. Most evrything we do is in regards to dirt track cars with a very short life span. For bikes or show cars, I'd go with base coat auto stuff. I also use a lot of HOK under clear. This is by no means fool proof as this fool has had problems with it too, mostly in the form of a bleeding/sheeting fashion.
-------------------- George Perkins Millington,TN. goatwell@bigriver.net
"I started out with nothing and still have most of it left"
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I know it can be done but with my method of spraying it does not. I use Utek urathane clear that is as thick as syrup. It stays soft alot longer than most clears. I hammer my lids so I only clear once. [Three wet caots] One reason that I prefer HoK is that I dont clear all of my work. I am sure I can get it to work but I dont want to warranty any art work that someone else is going to clear. If I use HoK a can garrentee my work from lifting. The only time I have had a problem is when a guy tried to chase a run off of a helmet and the art blurred a little. In my mind I feel as if you should learn with a product that is made for a certain application.How often do you see any one ask how do you clear HOK? I have both in my shop and each has a job it was designed to do and they both do them very well when used correctly. Will HoK mess up? Sure, but far less than 1shot when cleared. Just my oppinion.
George does your son use 1shot? I have tried panels from panel jam with the sole purpose of tring to clear at home. Some were Ok and some were not. I am sure if I changed clear I could get it to work but man do I love my Utech.
Paint fumes for life!!!!!!!
-------------------- Ryan Young Indocil Art & Design indocil@comporium.net 803-980-6765
I highjacked Letterville!! Winter Muster 2004 Posts: 904 | From: Rock Hill, SC | Registered: Sep 2001
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Ryan, yes Greg uses One Shot for any brush work under the clear. He's had more problems with the HOK and the OS is pretty much hassle free, but most of his stuff is back taped these days. He uses a lot of vinyl on the lettering, especially since he found a Sign DNA script that's real close to mine. Saves him having to wait on me since he does most of his work after midnight. Trying to clear over panels from a jam would tend to be hit or miss, depending on how the panel was prepped. If they just started striping it without prepping, the OSwon't be stuck good enough, if you hammer the clear it's gonna mess up. Ther's a whole bunch of factors that can cause problems. e-mail me if you want to know more.
-------------------- George Perkins Millington,TN. goatwell@bigriver.net
"I started out with nothing and still have most of it left"
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Thanks guys, I am using an automotive clear but no hardener. I have been thinking of trying some HOK but I have the whole line of 1 shot. Maybe I'll get enough to do one or two helmets and try it out. Gave me alot to think about and try. I've got a bunch of practice helmets and I'll get started!! Sorry I didn't reply sooner about the clear. Our favorite local bar closed down and we had to go one last time. Everything was one dollar! Wont be doing that again for a while!!! Thanks again!
I've used One Shot for a lot of pinstriping on my helmets and some hand lettering. The only thing that really matters is using some One Shot Hardener when you do your painting and letting it set up for at least 24 hours.
I'm using PPG Concept clear and it has never caused any kind of lifting or crinkling.
-------------------- Shawn Hansen Shark Signs & Designs Delafield, WI Posts: 5 | From: Delafield, WI | Registered: Mar 2003
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Reading ths post has brought back a few frustrating memories for me. I used to clear over 1 Shot quite a bit. Sometimes it would be fine and then the next time you might be on that last coat of clear and it would all go to "CRAP". Wrinkleling, bleeding, etc. Didn't matter what technique I used to apply the clear...it was to unpredictable. As far as putting automotive hardener in the 1 Shot, one time I did that and the clear actually did not adhere to the 1 Shot pinstripe area. The clear peeled off the 1/8" width of the stripe when I was doing additional layout work and it stayed in tack on the rest of the paint surface. That was fun to fix! Perhaps I added to much hardener, I don't know, and I didn't care..."that was the last time I ever chose to clear over 1 Shot. In my opinion, if you have spent alot of time doing some artwork on something and you are going to clear over it, then use what works. HOK striping urethanes or automotive bases. If you are doing alot of this type of work, then the cost of buying in the proper paints is less than your time wasted and loss of profit if you have to do things over.
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