posted
Glass Work Step#3 Mirror Gilding Gold Leaf -------------------------------------------------------
Mirror gilding, or sometimes called "Water" gild is far too much, to explain in just one post. This is where I would like to see the veterans come foward and help explain. Maybe I should start with the materials needed to water gild.
--Materials--
> 23kt. Gold Leaf- called, surface, loose, or glass
> Gelatin water size- comes in sheets or capsuals
> Gilders tip- for statically lifting gold leaf
> Water size brush- usually constructed entirely of brass(except handle)
> Back-up black- used to seal the gold (brushed or screen printed) shading, and outlining
> Window Spar Varnish- Final seal (brushed)
> Cotton balls- used to remove excess gold
> "Splash" -used to remove excess gold
--Concept--
Gelatin water size is "Flowed" on the glass, and while wet, the gold leaf is applied, using a gilder's tip. The gelatin dries along with the gold, and becomes mirror.
--Size Preparations--
I will be using gelatin sheets. They are 3"X9" and scored onto diamond shapes. Use 4 or 5 daimonds per pint of water. Heat water, drop in the diamonds, disolve, and let cool. The size is like glue for the gold leaf. You use this size to wet the portion of glass you wish to mirror gild. The glass is suppose to remain wet during the leaf laying. You will constantly be using the water gilding brush to do so.
--Gold Appliaction--
The surface leaf is not like Patent leaf, as it is loose, and will fly away even if you beathe on it. You canot use this type in the wind. A gilder's tip is used to handle the loose leaf during application. To use the gilder's tip, gently run the brush in your hair to statically charge the hair of the brush. This charge will attract the leaf to the brush, and hold it in place till it touches the glass, at that exact moment, the leaf will get "sucked" down to the glass because its wet.
This shows a gilder's tip. Its that funky look`n brush.
-------------------- Richard Bustamante Signs in the Pines www.signsinthepines.com Posts: 781 | From: Nevada City, California | Registered: Nov 1998
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-------------------- Richard Bustamante Signs in the Pines www.signsinthepines.com Posts: 781 | From: Nevada City, California | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted
Great tutorial Richard. The only thing I might add to this is: When making up the water size, DISTILLED WATER should be used exclusively. There are some areas where the tap water contains mineral deposits (such as sulphur) etc. These dissolved minerals can cause the guild to become "cloudy", and uneven in appearance. It's not like that in lots of towns and cities, but using the distilled water is cheap insurance against having to re-do a job. Most drug stores sell it in gallon jugs, and it's quite inexpensive.
-------------------- Ken Henry Henry & Henry Signs London, Ontario Canada (519) 439-1881 e-mail: kjmlhenry@rogers.com
Why do I get all those on-line offers to sell me Viagara, when the only thing hardening is my arteries ? Posts: 2684 | From: London,Ontario, Canada | Registered: Feb 1999
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posted
>>Ken that is a good point that I overlooked.
Also, the gelatin capsuals I mentioned, are not filled with anything, its the actual caps that are the gelatin.
I aslo saw Ken Turner at the Product Sign Supply's "Harvest Moon" letterhead meet, who was water sizing with a "Spertzer" bottle set to mist. It looked like it was alot easier, and faster too.
There is going to be alot that I'm going to forget and this is in no way a "bible" for mirror gilding There are a couple of letterheads that have books they've written.(that post regular) Kent for one.
All supplies I've mentioned can be purchased at:
Esoteric Sign Supply 1646 Wilmington Blvd. Wilmington, CA 90744
-------------------- Richard Bustamante Signs in the Pines www.signsinthepines.com Posts: 781 | From: Nevada City, California | Registered: Nov 1998
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-------------------- Richard Bustamante Signs in the Pines www.signsinthepines.com Posts: 781 | From: Nevada City, California | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted
The leaf can be cracking because of two main issues. First, if indeed you are creating static in your tip, this will cause the leaf to break in the transfer since static wants to hold the gold to the tip. What you want on the tip is oil from your hair which will allow you to pick up the leaf and it will still release. You can also use a small amount of Vaseline or Vaseline hair tonic directly on the hairs of the tip or rubbed onto your arm or into your hair. Please re-read pages 18-27 in GLT. Also if you transfer static to the book of gold itself, the leaf will crack as you lift it. Be sure to lift, not slide the leaf from the book. Second, the size must be flowing in an even sheet on the glass. If there are rivelets of size, they will break the gold and cause a chasm which is difficult to resize much less patch with gold. If you have rivelets, then you also are getting too much build up of gelatin which will cause cloudiness in the gild.
-------------------- Kent Smith Smith Sign Studio P.O.Box 2385, Estes Park, CO 80517-2385 kent@smithsignstudio.com Posts: 1025 | From: Estes Park, CO | Registered: Nov 1998
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-------------------- Richard Bustamante Signs in the Pines www.signsinthepines.com Posts: 781 | From: Nevada City, California | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted
I just finished it. With the lettering that is. I still have the install. Wooden door, molding and I thinks a major headache. Me thinks I sub out.
-------------------- Richard Bustamante Signs in the Pines www.signsinthepines.com Posts: 781 | From: Nevada City, California | Registered: Nov 1998
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And while we are on the topic, anyone who would like to learn more, I remind you that I am teaching a Gold Leaf Techniques seminar at ISA in Vegas on April 4. It will be 3 hours of hands-on tailored to the students who attend. I am not trolling for more students, just offering to help with specific topics if you can make it there.
-------------------- Kent Smith Smith Sign Studio P.O.Box 2385, Estes Park, CO 80517-2385 kent@smithsignstudio.com Posts: 1025 | From: Estes Park, CO | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted
Ken, Are you (or anyone else for the matter) going to be doing a seminar on gilding at the big show in Indianapolis, In. ??? If so that would definately be worth the drive up. Thanks Troy
-------------------- Troy "Metalleg" Haas 626 Kingswood Dr Evansville,In 47715 Posts: 1100 | From: Evansville,Indiana, USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted
Splash is a ready to use transfer solution for applying vinyl lettering, decals and graphics. (took that off the bottle)...anyway, you use it as a wetting agent, along with a cotton ball.
Clearstar coatings corp 1 888 253 2778
--Rich
-------------------- Richard Bustamante Signs in the Pines www.signsinthepines.com Posts: 781 | From: Nevada City, California | Registered: Nov 1998
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I think a word should be put in here about cleaning the glass and how important that is. Traditionally ,as most of the older folks know, Bon Ami cleanser in the bar form was used...wet the clean rag, work some soap into it, and clean the window with an overlaping circular motion. Leave the soapy stuff on the glass until it dries, then wipe clean with a lint free cloth. You may need to clean the glass twice. You can tell if it's clean, by flooding a little bit of water (no size) on a small area. If it's clean it will flow downward in an unbroken sheet. If it still needs more cleaning, it will separate and have holes, or holidays in it.
Sometimes no matter how hard you try, the glass just will not clean good enough to pass the water test. In these cases you can try a drop or two of fabric softener into the water size. If you can't find any available near the job, I have used clear ammonia the same way, just one or two drops. If you can get the size to flow evenly that's half the battle and you dont have so many little riverlets and thin spots that can cause the gold to break apart. In my limited experience you always need to second gild anyway, but there will be fewer problem areas.
Another thing to consider is multiple lines of copy. I start at the bottom, and gild the last line first. Then I cover that gild with plastic and a masking tape hinge at the top. Then gild the next line up, then cover, move up, etc.This way you have no water size streaking through the letters under the line you're on. Also if you make little loops out of masking tape, they will hold off the plastic from the window so it doesn't touch any letters.
One last item...when doing windows or doors in offices, the biggest problem I've found is the air or heating system. Usually there is a slight movement of air, usually upward, on the glass, that is just enough to mess up the transfer of the gold from the book to the glass.Whole leaves will try and float away...and small particles will deposit themselves all over the office. The only way I've found to solve the problem is to turn off the system. That can be a major problem to do in some situations, making the office too hot or too cold, but if you can get them to do it just long enought o get the gold on, then you'd be a lot better off.
Richard, I'm glad your posting this series...people have complained in the past about not having enough non-computer stuff, but posts like yours really help balance this BB. Even if someone has done a particular technique before, its still good to read about it and review things. It also helps people like me who have done it before, but are not doing it now....makes me want to go out a do one again.....thanks
-------------------- Jeff Ogden 8727 NE 68 Terr. Gainesville FL, 32609 Posts: 2138 | From: 8827 NE 68 Terr Gainesville Fl 32609 | Registered: Aug 2002
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posted
>>Troy Nope, can't make that one. I would like to do classes though. You know, do`n stuff "the old way" is a dying art. Since I can remember, I've always done it that way. I use the plotter, but it just aids me in do`n it "the old way. Very rarely do I do an entire sign with vinyl, I just have to add something, or do something by "hand"
--Rich
-------------------- Richard Bustamante Signs in the Pines www.signsinthepines.com Posts: 781 | From: Nevada City, California | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted
I don't want to step on anyones toes with this and I hope no one takes offense.
Why is it on a Sign Website BB that a topic about politics, and other OT posts get so much attention and feedback, while a quality thread such as this that IS sign related gets very little???
I probably should post this seperate and I realize that it is "Quality" not quanity(sp?) and many7 of the OT hot post's are only a few people that keep going back and forth.
I think maybe it is "Intimadation", I personally would like to contribute more, but sometimes I feel I am not "worthy" to answer some post, or if I do have the answer someone beats me to the punch, so to speak, I realize this is my issue and I need to be more confident and not be affraid to stick my neck out there.
I personally and working more on getting back to basic's, paint and carving, gilding and so on. I still have a jar full of gellitan caps that have probably gone bad that I bought to do a glass project for a panel and never got to it, maybe I can now, if they are still good.
Sorry to get OT and to rant!!!!
Troy
-------------------- Troy "Metalleg" Haas 626 Kingswood Dr Evansville,In 47715 Posts: 1100 | From: Evansville,Indiana, USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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Thanks Richard for a great step-by step, filed this one for future reference
I'm just hoping to see more or more commentary.
This's got me interesed enough to start picking up materials, I'll definitely be experimenting and reading more on this subject... (soon as I get a chance)
-------------------- Mike O'Neill
It has yet to be proven that intelligence has any survival value. - Arthur C. Clarke
posted
Richard, thanks for taking the time during your project to take the pictures. It's unfortunate that the effects you achieve are difficult to capture on film, but it does look fabulous none the less. I'm certainly primed to try the techniques as you have painstakenly laid out for us. Thanks again.
-------------------- "Are we having fun yet?" Peter Schuttinga DZines Sign Studio 1617 Millstream rd Victoria BC V9B-6G4 Posts: 521 | From: Victoria BC | Registered: Mar 2002
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posted
Richard, Thanks for this post! It's great! The end product looks great. Could you explain how to get the frosted centers that I see in "Carringtons" & "Fine". The glue chipping in "WINES" looks great.
Thanks again,
Joe
-------------------- Joe House Denco Sales Co. 2119 SE 11th Ave Portland OR 97214 800-345-0172 Posts: 20 | From: Portland OR | Registered: Jul 2002
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