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» The Letterville BullBoard » Old Archives » Flute Routed Posts

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Author Topic: Flute Routed Posts
Matthew Rossi
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Member # 353

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Seem some rather nice flute routed design post out their. Are they pressure treated? Looking for some 6"-8" smooth sided post. I know our local sign supplier has cedar post, but they dont come as wide. What do people use for posts if i want to vertically route a bull nose flute groove in them. Pressure treated just doent have the smooth sides to them. Thought about attached pine boards to them after routing. Has anyone had this project? And some help in ideas.
Thanks again for great help.

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Signs Solutions, Inc.
Matthew Rossi
Midlothian, VA, 23113
signsol@earthlink.net

Posts: 139 | From: Midlothian, Virginia | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Jean Shimp
Resident


Member # 198

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We have been experimenting with wrapping 4x4 posts with 1/2" thick pvc with flutes routed into them. The nice thing about pvc is that it doesn't split like pressure-treated lumber. You can make the posts appear as thick as you want with your 4x4 wood in the center.

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Jean Shimp
Shimp Sign & Design Co.
Jacksonville Beach, Fl

Posts: 1287 | From: Jacksonville Beach, Fl. USA | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Glenn Taylor
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Member # 162

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I agree with Jean. It is much better.

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BlueDog Graphics
Wilson, NC

www.BlueDogUSA.com

Warning: A well designed sign may cause fatigue due to increased business.

Posts: 10691 | From: Wilson, NC, USA | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
captain ken
Visitor
Member # 742

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I make a few custom posts (got a couple coming up next week actually) I usually get 4x4 pressure treated that goes into the footing, nothing is better set into the ground, then the part that is above ground gets wrapped in cedar, which is the plunge router and edge guide. alot of times I will wrap anothe layer of cedar around the bottom 6-8" and cap it with a molding to give it some structural demension, it really doesnt add strength, just looks like it. a nice dental molding and a cap with some gilded or brass finials and, your beautiful sign is now a magnificient structure.

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Ken McTague,
Concept Signs
57 Bridge St. (route 107)
Salem MA 01970
1-978-745-5800
conceptsign@yahoo.com
http://www.pinheadlounge.com/CaptainKen

---------------------------------

"A wise man once said that, or was it a wise guy?"

Posts: 2425 | From: Salem, MA | Registered: Apr 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Amy Brown
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Member # 1963

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Jean,

How are you fastening the PVC around the Posts? Just scrwing it on or fastening the PVC pieces together? I have a sign we did in Aug. 2002 and the posts are split so bad already I would like to fix it.

Thanks!

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Amy Brown
Life Skills 101
Private Address

Posts: 3502 | From: Lake Helen, FL, USA | Registered: Feb 2001  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Bob Stephens
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Member # 858

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I dont see why you couldnt miter you edges and then weld them together with PVC cement. Make sure the inside opening is large enough to slide over your post. You might even be able to use biscuit joints on the miters too.

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Bob Stephens
Skywatch Signs
Zephyrhills, FL

www.skywatchsigns.com
www.skywatchgallery.com

Posts: 2481 | From: Zephyrhills, Florida | Registered: Jun 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Jean Shimp
Resident


Member # 198

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We attach the pvc to the 4x4 post by using a nail gun. I was concerned with the expansion-contraction issue of the pvc so I positioned the flutes so that they formed a pattern of lines to include the butt joints at the corners. So if a gap occurs at a joint it appears as part of the flute.

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Jean Shimp
Shimp Sign & Design Co.
Jacksonville Beach, Fl

Posts: 1287 | From: Jacksonville Beach, Fl. USA | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
   

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