That is something I have been doing for years. I cut them on my Roland, and with it not having much downforce I have to cut 2-3 times to cut through the material. The one thing that you really need to do it cover both sides of your "plastic" with transfer tape. The tape acts as a "carrier" just like the backing paper on vinyl. The top layer gives your wheels something to grab onto other than the slick "plastic" surface of your material. I try and cut through the top two layers and leave the bottom basically intact. Then just peel the top two away and you have a stencil. This way you can reproduce the stencils exactly anytime you need to. I only wish I had had a plotter 20 years ago so I wouldn't have had to cut thousands of them by hand!! The only drawback is this will EAT plotter blades!!
Hope this helps, R.T.
-------------------- R.T.Thomas,AirDesigns/Sign And Airbrush Studio rtart1@earthlink.net
Hattiesburg,MS 39401 Shop 601-584-1000 Cell 601-310-5901 Proud supporter of LETTERVILLE!
"Ahhhhhh.......Juicy Fruit." Posts: 547 | From: Hattiesburg,MS USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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so is that thickness what you use on your stencil or do you have a preference?
and you said you went over it 3 times to cut through...does your plotter cut sandblast mask?...I am going to have to try your suggestion but don't feel like screwing my machine p!...
and what blade do you use?...45 or 60?
Thankee....Thankee!
See ya at Fred's!!!!
-------------------- Robert Beverly Arlington, Texas Posts: 1033 | From: Arlington, Texas | Registered: Jan 2001
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