posted
Given the choice of HDU thickness, on a large complex shaped pieces, attached to a flat wall.... A.Would you choose 1.5 inch without backing and use the wall for support?... B. Use 1 inch and back with aluminum or other? C. Both
Now think X3, as I have 3 approximately 4x8 pieces with complex shapes to do. They will seam together to make a 4x24 carved sign. The price seems to be about the same for either method, and normally I back HDU, but this is a lot of extra work, if it is not necessary. Thanks to any that reply with an opinion.
-------------------- "Don't change horses in midstream, unless you spot one with longer legs" bronzeo oti Jack Davis 1410 Main St Joplin, MO 64801 www.imagemakerart.com jack@imagemakerart.com Posts: 1549 | From: Joplin, MO | Registered: Mar 2000
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I would probably go with the 1" backed with Alumalite primarily because of the weight factor. It would certainly much easier to move than a 4x8 of 1.5", plus you would have more options for mounting, IMHO.
-------------------- Mike"Spud"Kelly zipperhead design Westminster, MA Posts: 367 | From: Westminster, MA | Registered: Mar 2001
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The sign is 24 feet long and will be at least 10 feet off of the ground. I will be attaching to a treated wood frame built like a stud wall, maybe just an inch deep to set it off of the existing flat wall structure and give some extra depth. Most sizes on these nicer carved signs call for a removable mount. In this case, the sign is huge. It is going to take a lot of backer, time to shape, and a lot of glue and or silicone to make the sandwich. My plan is to make the seams hit the studwork one way or the other. It would seem that 1.5 inch HDU would be strong enough to support itself on this project, but I'm not real sure. The carvings will go no deeper than 1/2 way through, and only then in a few areas.
As far as weight is concerned, I think the weight would be very similar. 1/2 of HDU compared to .040 aluminum. Here is the sign.....Thanks for sharing info...
[ January 22, 2003, 04:46 AM: Message edited by: Steve Shortreed ]
-------------------- "Don't change horses in midstream, unless you spot one with longer legs" bronzeo oti Jack Davis 1410 Main St Joplin, MO 64801 www.imagemakerart.com jack@imagemakerart.com Posts: 1549 | From: Joplin, MO | Registered: Mar 2000
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Wouldn't a french cleat leave the sign susceptible to wind/other movement? Or is there a way to permanently anchor a sign using a french cleat? Perhaps hang the sign then drill through the fixed board and anchor the sign to that?
-shane
-------------------- Halo Graphics Clearlake Oaks, CA http://www.halographics.com ntshane1@halographics.com Posts: 308 | From: Clearlake Oaks, CA | Registered: May 2001
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Use the cleats to hang the sign. Use stainless #10 deck screws to anchor it. Cover the screw heads with bullets of painted enamel receptive vinyl.
-------------------- Steve Purcell Purcell Woodcarving & Signmaking Cape Cod, MA
Instagram: Purcell Woodcraft
************************** Intelligent Design Is No Accident Posts: 902 | From: Cape Cod, MA | Registered: Oct 1999
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I really think that the sign is too big for using a cleat system. I have used it plenty in the past for smaller single panel items. A cleat would rely on getting all three panels exactly square when the cleat is applied. The wall cleat perfectly square also, as well as the marriage of the two when hung. I'm thinking the panel hung like wall paneling, would come out straighter with less effort. If in fact, I was to use a cleat system, would you back the HDU with alum. then or not?
-------------------- "Don't change horses in midstream, unless you spot one with longer legs" bronzeo oti Jack Davis 1410 Main St Joplin, MO 64801 www.imagemakerart.com jack@imagemakerart.com Posts: 1549 | From: Joplin, MO | Registered: Mar 2000
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Why couldn't you just take the sign panels, square them up, then take the piece that is to be the cleats and square it up to the back of the piece, and draw lines around it indicating it's position. Then, rip the piece that will form the cleats. Attach the panel-cleats. Hang the wall-mounted cleat (level) and it all should go on perfectly square/level.
-shane
-------------------- Halo Graphics Clearlake Oaks, CA http://www.halographics.com ntshane1@halographics.com Posts: 308 | From: Clearlake Oaks, CA | Registered: May 2001
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Shane, My question was about needing a backing or not. The method of hanging the sign is not the question, but thanks for the advice on that. It would seem to me like trying to hang sheetrock or wall paneling with a cleat. Cleats certainly have their places, but I don't see it here. Perhaps, it was a bad question, but it seemed like a legitamate one to me. I really do appreciate your responses.
Si, I would like to once see a response from you to anyone, that didn't circle around a smart a$$ useless comment. Just a three year on-going observation.
-------------------- "Don't change horses in midstream, unless you spot one with longer legs" bronzeo oti Jack Davis 1410 Main St Joplin, MO 64801 www.imagemakerart.com jack@imagemakerart.com Posts: 1549 | From: Joplin, MO | Registered: Mar 2000
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we once made a 24' x3' HDU menu sign, that was indoors. We mounted all 3 panels onto a frame made from 1"x1" aluminum tubing. I have not to this day backed HDU with another flat substrate, and would not if the sign is flat against the wall. but if you are concerned with the panels matching and are going to lift the sign away from the wall a bit, why not make a steel frame or an aluminum one and mount each panel onto it. why use wood?
You could also route the back of the HDU to match the frame and sink it into the HDU. thus eliminating cutting a shape out of a substrate and adhering it to the HDU.
My ideal method would be 1.5" and use the wall for support.
Just a thought.
[ January 20, 2003, 09:45 PM: Message edited by: Bob Rochon ]
-------------------- Bob Rochon Creative Signworks Millbury, MA 508-865-7330
"Life is Like an Echo, what you put out, comes back to you." Posts: 5149 | From: Millbury, Mass. U.S. | Registered: Nov 1998
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Thanks Bob, I'm glad to hear that you have used a lot of unbacked applications without problems. I guess my reasoning was to eliminate warping. I once hung a glued up redwood sign that bowed 2 inches in just a week caused by the sun bearing down on the South side of the sign more than the North. I guess my reasoning with CCA wood is it will allow for easier use with countersinking screwheads, price, and ease of use. It should last fine. I'm not much in trying to shave costs to save a buck, but in this consvervative area, I'm very fortunate to sell this nice of sign.
Update.. I have bought the 1.5 inch stuff, which feels pretty stable at this point. It certainly looks as if aluminum backer would be overkill. My one remaining question on this line would be if the back would need priming? Thanks, Jack
-------------------- "Don't change horses in midstream, unless you spot one with longer legs" bronzeo oti Jack Davis 1410 Main St Joplin, MO 64801 www.imagemakerart.com jack@imagemakerart.com Posts: 1549 | From: Joplin, MO | Registered: Mar 2000
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Damn dude, that was uncalled for. Si has helped me out more times than I can remember on all kinds of questions that I've asked. And I always see him helping other folks out, too. Lighten up, man.
-shane
-------------------- Halo Graphics Clearlake Oaks, CA http://www.halographics.com ntshane1@halographics.com Posts: 308 | From: Clearlake Oaks, CA | Registered: May 2001
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