posted
Hello all, I'm looking at a job lettering on metal corrugated containers that will be finished in an epoxy/polyurethane paint system. I don't have any brand name as of now, will have that tomorrow,hopefully
I'm hoping that oneshot will work on this? anybody have thoughts on this?
Thanks, John / SignRider
-------------------- John Lennig / Big Top Sign Arts 5668 Ewart Street, Burnaby, British Columbia, Canada bigtopya@hotmail.com 604.451.0006 Posts: 2184 | From: Burnaby, British Columbia,Canada | Registered: Nov 2001
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posted
i'd call or email Tom (the tech guy) at 1-shot and ask him -- he'll know. You can go to 1shot.com and follow the links to their contact info. I've always found them extremely helpful, and i've never waited more than a day for a response.
My guess is that he'll suggest you mix their hardener in with your paint. Its a catalyzed hardener, so it makes 1-shot more like an automotive paint.
-------------------- :: Scooter Marriner :: :: Coyote Signs :: :: Oakland, CA :: :: still a beginner :: :: Posts: 1356 | From: Oakland (and San Francisco) | Registered: Mar 2001
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John it depends on the paint,...epoxy and ureathane can cover a broad base of paint products,...alot of people confuse epoxy with the new 2 part ureathanes as epoxy was the first paint to use 2 parts,...if it is normal industrial ureathane with a catylist you probably won't have a problem if you use a hotter thinner than normal and prep it well,just like lettering on a semi,...If it is the epoxy like they use on hospitals and fiberglass thinned with denatured alchohol you may have adhesion problems with one shot down the road as it is a paint coating designed to be constantly cleaned,..thus the reason they spec it for hospitals and doctors offices.I would check with the manufacturer's specs before I used one shot on the epoxy type paints I have used in the past,...just my 2 cents worth on the info you have given so far,... hope this helps ya,...
-------------------- fly low...timi/NC is, Tim Barrow Barrow Art Signs Winston-Salem,NC Posts: 2224 | From: Winston-Salem,NC,USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted
Thanks Doug,Scooter,Timi. AND A BIG THANKS TO BARB/STEVE for passing the my post on to Frank Manning @ oneshot!
He called me, we discussed and it was good. I had just been to see the containers, using PPG with dtr epoxy and pitthane for urethane. Then talked with PPG chemist here,"use dtr thinner for oneshot", he was very familiar with oneshot. "It will bite into urethane"
The best thing about a site visit is....finding out the "weird stuff". They also add "insulator" to the paint, it's basically like adding sand to the paint. So the crisp designs will take A LITTLE MORE TIME, EH! No tape here, either. Now to work out times and put cost together.
btw, if anybody sees a RED FLAG re: dtr thinner, please let me know.
Thanks for the quick response!
John / SignRider
-------------------- John Lennig / Big Top Sign Arts 5668 Ewart Street, Burnaby, British Columbia, Canada bigtopya@hotmail.com 604.451.0006 Posts: 2184 | From: Burnaby, British Columbia,Canada | Registered: Nov 2001
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Just got a callback from Frank Manning/Oneshot Man, I had left message about the thinner choice, he concurred, and said that adding their hardner too is a must. The end result will be an "alkyd/urethane", a New Breed of paint? probably have to clean my brushes in JD??
John / SignRider
-------------------- John Lennig / Big Top Sign Arts 5668 Ewart Street, Burnaby, British Columbia, Canada bigtopya@hotmail.com 604.451.0006 Posts: 2184 | From: Burnaby, British Columbia,Canada | Registered: Nov 2001
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