I have got one of those real weird projects going and as my previous post stated, I have bought myself some new airbrushes....
And after spending all of that money, I decided to build a box to put them in...protection..hahaha
well....what started out as a simple tote box(WOOD) has turned into an artistic palet of FUN! I decide after picking this thing up that it's too heavy to be luggin around...so I put rollers on it... then added some feet....decided on carving elephants feet...I am now carving a trunk for the handle and have officially decided a caurosel theme is in order
SO...I was going to paint a base coat of color on it...decided to go red and I was going to use acrylic enamel(not enough one shot to do it but have tons of arylic enamels) for that...then put a one shot clear gloss over that.....then add detail...(pin strip...airbrush etc.) on as I develop it using one shot.
What do you think...good idea?
I sure don't want to have things going to pot on me after I do it...or some weird reaction...I ask my foreman and he said it was fine to do that.
Your thoughts?
[ December 14, 2002, 10:57 AM: Message edited by: Robert Beverly ]
-------------------- Robert Beverly Arlington, Texas Posts: 1023 | From: Arlington, Texas | Registered: Jan 2001
| IP: Logged |
posted
Robert if you want it glossy,add the catalyst to the acrylic enamel and forget about the clear. You can clear over the a/e but when you do it's going to always "sit" on top the finish,it's not going to become one unit like if you were cleariing over a basecoat. I assume you want to clear it for protection also,and in something like that adding clear on top isn't really going to afford you more protection than having the catalyzed enamel itself as a base. When ever you bump that thing etc its going to be more prone to chip than the plain base would and if you chip it big enuff you may get the pleasure of pulling big pieces off. Now with all due respect to 1shot,most clears like that,like 1shot UV and frog juice,take about 30 days to get really fully cured,so even if it feels firm to the touch,it's not "done"......and you run the risk of burning it or wrinkling it,staining it etc by getting right up on it with an airbrush and hitting it with 50psi or more from 2" away or closer. Just my $1.98
-------------------- Gavin Chachere Plotter in the garage,New Orleans La.
"Sgts Shugart and Gordon again request permission to rope down to crash site two" Posts: 1223 | From: new orleans.la. | Registered: Mar 2000
| IP: Logged |
posted
Editing this b/c I know someone is going to either ask or recommend automotive clear....sure you can do that and have in theory a stronger clear....but you're still not gonna get the adhesion you think and with something like a signbox that is going on the concrete,being stood on,banging around in a truck,its not gonna be foolproof. Also,depending on which clear you pick nowadays(automotive wise) you could wind up with a surface too hard to get anything to adhere too and after you spend time on artwork etc i know you don't want that popping off later down the line.
-------------------- Gavin Chachere Plotter in the garage,New Orleans La.
"Sgts Shugart and Gordon again request permission to rope down to crash site two" Posts: 1223 | From: new orleans.la. | Registered: Mar 2000
| IP: Logged |
posted
Robert, I also have a wood box kit made for me in back in 63, out of cherry and teak. I prefer urethanes for the embellishment which will allow a clearcoat of anykind. Striping and artwork under the clear is less likely to give problems when HoK striping and lettering urethane enamels are used. HoK can be used on top of any kind of paint, and below any kind of clearcoat.
-------------------- HotLines Joey Madden - pinstriping since 1952 'Perfection, its what I look for and what I live for'
posted
Robert, I'm curious........ Are you using acrylic enamel as in the type you can buy at the HOME DEPOT in a quart can? If so, just go ahead and use it as a base coat and you can clear with a 1-shot tinting clear which is what I use on my fine art pieces that I have done with acrylics from the tube or the can. At times I will use a flattener so to quiet the glossy sheen. TIP........When you close the clear,make sure it is tight and then turn it upside down for storage. That keeps the air out and it will be ready to use again without skin or having to strain the "greeblies" out before using. Also after you turn the can upright, let it sit for about a 1/2 hr before opening. It lets stuff drain down. That's it...........CrazyJack
-------------------- Wilson Ardmore Sun Signs 164 Team Track Rd. Auburn, Ca hatfield@vfr.net Posts: 100 | From: Bowman,Ca | Registered: Aug 2002
| IP: Logged |
I am using the automotive type paint to cover it and I decided to just add hardener to it...to give it the hardness. I was not really sure whether to go for a super shine but will just wait and see if it all pans out....but it's too late to change directions...
I do thank ya'll
-------------------- Robert Beverly Arlington, Texas Posts: 1023 | From: Arlington, Texas | Registered: Jan 2001
| IP: Logged |
I will have the ponchatoula panel at Fred's with me as well as this beast....
I was thinking last night about the thought of making more boxes...one for my carving schtuff...and my gold leaf...mmmm...a carnival train is in the idea box...LOL
-------------------- Robert Beverly Arlington, Texas Posts: 1023 | From: Arlington, Texas | Registered: Jan 2001
| IP: Logged |
![[Smile]](smile.gif)
Printer-friendly view of this topic