posted
I'm up against a deadline and I'm out of paint mask. Will application tape work? I was thinking of running it through the plotter on a piece of vinyl backing paper (is that the right term for that stuff?).
I'm going to spray one shot on black aluminum and it CAN NOT, I mean -- no way -- can it blow under the edge of the mask because I couldn't touch it up without it showing.
Or should I use regular vinyl as a mask? I'm thinking it might be impossible to remove without making a mess. I want to remove it while the paint is still tacky, to avoid the one shot sealing up against the mask.
Another thought I had was the spray glue on something that you would use like with stencils, but I wouldn't think that would seal well enough.
Also, just how perfect should I expect my painted aluminum to be when it's delivered? It has the plastic protector on it, yet it still has some superficial scratches from what looks like pretty rough handling.
-------------------- Penny Baugh Lee Edmund Spyro Design Group
Spyro Graphics 3458 Main Street, East Fort Payne, AL 35968
posted
I have used vinyl as a paint mask a number of times. I would trust it more than application tape. Calendared vinyl works quite well and is often a little easier to remove than cast because it is stiffer.
-------------------- David Harding A Sign of Excellence Carrollton, TX Posts: 5107 | From: Carrollton, TX, USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted
Good, thanks guys. Do you remove the vinyl before the one shot is completely dry? Do you use a little heat to help out. It's so cold in here today, you can see your breath...brrrrrr....
-------------------- Penny Baugh Lee Edmund Spyro Design Group
Spyro Graphics 3458 Main Street, East Fort Payne, AL 35968
posted
Penny, just put the vinyl into place gently, but don't squeegee it down hard. that way it will be easy to peel up when you're done spraying. if you have to squeegee, just do it around the edges of the stencil area, and leave the large areas un-squeegee'd. (is that a word?).
sometimes masking can leave a rough edge. (that's part of the reason that most flame jobs usually have outlines.) you might cut your mask a tiny bit smaller (like 1/16") and then "clean up" the edge (outline it) after you spray. painting a thin black outline over a black image isn't too hard.
as for the nicks or dings on the substrate... well, try standing back from it as far as a person would normally be from the sign, and see if its noticable. (if the sign is at eye level you might be in trouble... it its up higher, you might be OK).
-------------------- :: Scooter Marriner :: :: Coyote Signs :: :: Oakland, CA :: :: still a beginner :: :: Posts: 1356 | From: Oakland (and San Francisco) | Registered: Mar 2001
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3-mil vinly should work better than HP, but since it's in the beginning of the week, why not shoot over to your nearest supplier and pick up the mask? I'd only use the other options if it was on a weekend or holiday.
P.S. Let your paint BEGIN to set up but make sure you remove whatever it is that you've masked with before the paint completely dries or your edges won't be crisp!
Good luck with your project!!
Mark
-------------------- Mark Neurohr "Ernest" Paintin' Place 141 Sunnyside Road Kittanning, PA 16201
posted
Application tape works great as a mask, however you have to hand cut it after it's applied to the substrate. A lot of shops in Memphis used the "cut and roll/spray" method in the days before computer. Intermediate vinyl will aslo work just fine.
-------------------- George Perkins Millington,TN. goatwell@bigriver.net
"I started out with nothing and still have most of it left"
posted
Once I get this bad boy finished, what's the best way to transport it to the metal fabricator to attach it onto the frame he's built? He'll pick it up, but do I use cardboard or what to protect it? It's two panels 4' X 6'.
-------------------- Penny Baugh Lee Edmund Spyro Design Group
Spyro Graphics 3458 Main Street, East Fort Payne, AL 35968
Looks like you are gonna pull through this one okay, using vinyl or transfer tape! The transfer tape is easier to remove, but you do have to hand cut it.
Thought I'd also mention that I keep old, (really old) rolls of vinyl, to use as paint mask. Works for me...
As for wrapping/packing your panels, my aluminum supplier uses shrink wrap, plenty of it! It's secure and practically non skid!
Remember, we work with our projects at arms length. If your eyes still work, you see everything! STEP BACK! We're human, we're not stinking perfect!
Good luck, Cher.
[ December 10, 2002, 12:30 PM: Message edited by: Cheryl Lucas ]
-------------------- Co-Host: SANDCASTLE Panel Jam 'a Dixie Letterhead Reunion' Fort Myers, Florida
Cheryl Lucas a/k/a "Shag" on mIRC Vital Signs & Graphics, Etc. Cape Coral, Florida 239-574-4713 VSignsNgraphics@aol.com Posts: 987 | From: Cape Coral, FL USA | Registered: Aug 2000
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posted
If you're in a pinch you can also use CONTAC paper available at just about any hardware store or Wal-Mart kind of place.
Before transfer tape became so popular, we used to use the clear CONTAC paper over and over and over to transfer vinyl lettering.
They make an easier to remove version now that would probably work great as masking. Cost-wise it would probably wind up being more expensive than using transfer tape for masking though.
-------------------- EmpY Mayo Pardo #138 South Elgin, IL. Posts: 436 | From: South Elgin, IL | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted
I'm with George...use the pre-mask. You do have to hand cut it with a sharp blade and a light touch, peeling as you go. Squeegee edges real good, then scuff areas to be painted with a Scotchbrite pad, then wipe clean with alcohol, resqeegee, then paint your 1shot. Then wait about an hour and peel mask while still tacky, being very careful not to let a piece of the mask slip out of your hand and lay across the wet paint. If you do that, you will instantly become a normal signperson, seeings how we've all done it before.
That's hoe I would do it
-------------------- Jeff Ogden 8727 NE 68 Terr. Gainesville FL, 32609 Posts: 2138 | From: 8827 NE 68 Terr Gainesville Fl 32609 | Registered: Aug 2002
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posted
Alittle tip on using vinyl as a paint mask I pull a pounce bag with baby powder over the sign first to leave a very thin layer of powder on the surface befroe applying the vinyl, it makes removal afterwards sooooo much easier
-------------------- Ken McTague, Concept Signs 57 Bridge St. (route 107) Salem MA 01970 1-978-745-5800 conceptsign@yahoo.com http://www.pinheadlounge.com/CaptainKen
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"A wise man once said that, or was it a wise guy?" Posts: 2425 | From: Salem, MA | Registered: Apr 1999
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posted
Hello Penny, I have found a way to use Intermediate Vinyl with excellent success. I will cut the letters on the plotter as usual, but then I go one step further. I outline the letters about .25". Once this is placed on the surfce to be painted, I mask to open areas around the letters. Now when you remove the vinyl mask, you are removing only 1/4" of vinyl, not the whole background.
Tony
-------------------- Tony Vickio The World Famous Vickio Signs 3364 Rt.329 Watkins Glen, NY 14891 t30v@vickiosigns.com 607-535-6241 http://www.vickiosigns.com Posts: 1063 | From: Watkins Glen, New York | Registered: Sep 2001
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posted
i use a "movers blanket" that i throw between panels when they go in the truck (it feels like horsehair, but maybe its straw, made into a blanket. you can get a cheaper version at U-Haul stores that's sort of a quilted cardboard -- like a giant thick paper towel). . i don't worry about the back sides getting scratched a little.
-------------------- :: Scooter Marriner :: :: Coyote Signs :: :: Oakland, CA :: :: still a beginner :: :: Posts: 1356 | From: Oakland (and San Francisco) | Registered: Mar 2001
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The mask worked beautifully. I used the intermediate vinyl on the one panel and paint mask on the other. The paint mask came off in 1/3 the time it took to get the vinyl off, but the vinyl worked just fine.
I appreciate all of you so much!
-------------------- Penny Baugh Lee Edmund Spyro Design Group
Spyro Graphics 3458 Main Street, East Fort Payne, AL 35968
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