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For ground signs, are any of you using the stuff that looks like real stone but is actually a lightweight foam? We are working on a design that calls for river rock on the columns. Our knowlege base is zero on fake rock. Any and all information is greatly appreciated. Vic G
-------------------- Victor Georgiou Danville, CA , USA Posts: 1746 | From: Danville, CA , USA | Registered: Dec 1998
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Vic, Check out the "Stone" or rock supply business. They might have a "faux" stone selection.
Jack
-------------------- Wilson Ardmore Sun Signs 164 Team Track Rd. Auburn, Ca hatfield@vfr.net Posts: 100 | From: Bowman,Ca | Registered: Aug 2002
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Victor, The architectural stone I've seen around here feels like real rock and is heavy, like slate. I imagine that anything done vertically would have to be done from the ground up, one piece at a time, so the weight of one stone is resting on the stone under it. I would think it would sag before the mortar set up. I used some brick pavers on a block wall recently, and they wanted to sag . I tried thinset mortar like you use for tile work, but it would need to be taped in place with duct tape for awhile. The best way was with some heavy duty construction adhesive ...I tried to pull one off that was a hair crooked and it would not budge without breaking it.
I haven't seen any HDU type stone, but that doesn't mean its not out there somewhere. Have you thought about making some stone out of 1" foam? Maybe you could rough sand a cut shape and then smear some stuff like Coastal crack filler on with a putty knife to get a stony look, then faux paint it with sponges and flat latex???
-------------------- Jeff Ogden 8727 NE 68 Terr. Gainesville FL, 32609 Posts: 2138 | From: 8827 NE 68 Terr Gainesville Fl 32609 | Registered: Aug 2002
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I've used quite a bit of the Cultured Stone, Rick mentions on our various monumental sign projects. It's not that hard but like anything htere is a knack to it and it takes practice. I've seen a lot of very bad work too over the years with this stuff... and real stone too for that matter. But in the right handa it is magic!
We also fabricate much of our rock work onsite and in place ourselves. I prefer to do it this way as I can vary the size of the stones to a much greater degree. We use fiberglass-reinforced concrete. They are hand painted when we are done... Adrianne & Donna know all about this process Bigger stones would be trowelled fiberglass-reinforced concrete over a welded frame covered with expanded steel mesh. Anything imagined can be built this way and can be as realistic as anything you can imagine or not if you choose.
-dan
-------------------- Dan Sawatzky Imagination Corporation Yarrow, British Columbia dan@imaginationcorporation.com http://www.imaginationcorporation.com
Being a grampa is one of the the most wonderful things in the world!!! Posts: 8764 | From: Yarrow, B.C. Canada | Registered: Nov 1998
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Rick, Wayne, Jeff - that is all good feedback and there is a wealth of information at the links you provided. That product is without a doubt what is being used on the building structures here in town.
It's interesting that, for that class of material, the manufacturers think 12 pounds per square foot of installed product is light. Compare that number to 18 pounds per cubic foot, for 18 pound signfoam - much lighter?
Here is a link I just found that appears to be a lighter product. For instance, they have 30 pound boulders, but the prices look high. There is no technical information at the site so I will have to email them for more data. I'll keep you posted.
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The cultured stone is considered a 'light' product because you don't have to structurally modify buildings to install it. For normal rock or brick facings the building structure must be done in such a way that it supports the heavy stone adequately.
With cultured stone you just have to staple on the diamond lath and then apply the facing rock. If you prop up the first row until the cement hardens you could start half way up a wall and then continue in a normal fashion from that point.
The fiberglass-reinforced concrete I speak of is actuall portland cement with sand and some fiberglass fiber (no resin) added to give it strength. The fibers break down into micro fibers and spread out through the batch as it is mixed thoroughly. It also keeps the concrete from checking (cracking) as it dries.
All of our cartoon structures are done this way and are litterally bullet proof... something that is absolutely necessary in a setting like a theme park. 'Guests' are so hard on things but iour stuff has stood up extremely well for many years of hard use.
-dan
-------------------- Dan Sawatzky Imagination Corporation Yarrow, British Columbia dan@imaginationcorporation.com http://www.imaginationcorporation.com
Being a grampa is one of the the most wonderful things in the world!!! Posts: 8764 | From: Yarrow, B.C. Canada | Registered: Nov 1998
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I would like to add, that you can apply the cultered stone to block, cement sheeting, and plastered substrates, in fact I prefer it, because stapled lathe tends to have some flex while yur applying the stone, which can lead to the stone collapsing (depending on how fast you go of course) I think cultered stone is the way to go, istead of foam because it is easier to install then trying to replicate stone yourself, Fiber reinforced concrete is great but not for the faint-hearted, my brother- in-law does hardscapes using it, and I admire his artistry, but it is hard work.
Rick
-------------------- Rick Chavez Hemet, CA Posts: 1540 | From: Hemet,CA U.S.A. | Registered: Jun 2001
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Bigger stones would be trowelled fiberglass-reinforced concrete over a welded frame covered with expanded steel mesh. Anything imagined can be built this way and can be as realistic as anything you can imagine or not if you choose.
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