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» The Letterville BullBoard » Old Archives » HDU sign mounted to brick wall

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Author Topic: HDU sign mounted to brick wall
Wayne Webb
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Member # 1124

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What are some of the ways to mount a large HDU sign to a brick wall without drilling through the front, without any hardware showing and so that it can be removed for later painting/restoration.
Thanks

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Wayne Webb
Webb Signworks
Chipley, FL
850.638.9329
wayne@webbsignworks.com

Posts: 7409 | From: Chipley,Florida,United States | Registered: Oct 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Steve Brown
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Member # 1004

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Wayne,
What we normally do, is drill oversize holes in the back of HDU sign, and use 3/16" or 1/4" threaded rod studs, using epoxy glue to secure them. Make a cardboard or other type template to show stud pattern, then when you get to job site, put your template up on wall, drill holes, apply silicon in holes, and push the sign in place. Works great, and no installation hardware will show. Hope this helps.

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Steve Brown
Brown Art Signs & Graphics
5381 Seven Islands Road
Madison, GA

Posts: 10 | From: Madison,GA,USA | Registered: Aug 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Steve Brown
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One more thing, If later you want to remove the sign, the silicon will stay flexible enough that you can remove it. Just use even pressure around the sign as you remove it. One thing you might consider. If you think this will be removed later, place studs around the edges, maybe 2" inside from edge. We usually place a few in the middle of the sign, but they are harder to get to for removal.

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Steve Brown
Brown Art Signs & Graphics
5381 Seven Islands Road
Madison, GA

Posts: 10 | From: Madison,GA,USA | Registered: Aug 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Jack Davis
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Wayne, Interesting that you should ask, as I have 2 coming up in a couple of weeks. 1.5 x 4 feet. I'm going to glue on a Dibond back panel with Gorilla glue, which will host 2 studs drilled through it to protrude about 1.5 inches on the top 2 corners. I will drill holes and silicone them into the brick, along with 3 or 4 other small spotches of silicone on the corner and center. This should make for fairly easy removal later. Especially if the silicone is near the edges of the sign.

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"Don't change horses in midstream, unless you spot one with longer legs" bronzeo oti
Jack Davis
1410 Main St
Joplin, MO 64801
www.imagemakerart.com
jack@imagemakerart.com

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Steve Purcell
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I'd suggest a recessed french cleat.

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Steve Purcell
Purcell Woodcarving & Signmaking
Cape Cod, MA

Instagram: Purcell Woodcraft

**************************
Intelligent Design Is No Accident

Posts: 902 | From: Cape Cod, MA | Registered: Oct 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Janette Balogh
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Member # 192

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I have used the cleat method.
Attached a long angle cut piece of wood to the wall ... angle facing up. Then another peice with the angle facing down onto the sign.

If the sign is large in sign, attach two. One near the top, one near the bottom.

On the order of a picture hanging, and the sign locks in place nicely.

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"When Love and Skill Work Together ... Expect a Masterpiece"

Janette Balogh
Creative Studio

janette@janettebalogh.com
www.janettebalogh.com

Posts: 5092 | From: Florida | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Wayne Webb
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I've come up with some installation costs based on some of your suggestions. Do these sound right?

8'x3' HDU sign mounted to a brick wall

French cleats (King Clips)
2 continuous clips (7.5') on sign
2 continuous clips on wall
dibond glued to back of sign with clips bolted on.
Hardware(marked up) $286.72
Labor (estimated) $200

Silicone/stud method
Dibond glued to back with studs bolted on.
oversized holes drilled in brick
Hardware(marked up) $190.78
Labor $160

I figure the sign, with the dibond, will weigh about 60lbs.

Thanks everyone

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Wayne Webb
Webb Signworks
Chipley, FL
850.638.9329
wayne@webbsignworks.com

Posts: 7409 | From: Chipley,Florida,United States | Registered: Oct 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Jack Davis
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Wayne the cleat method is a good one, but leaves another problem of locking down. It is typically done to hang heavy wall hangings, that can be lifted off. You can make it by, ripping a 1x6 CCA down the center at about 35 degrees and reverse them to one another. 3 of these at about 5.00 each might give you the strength plus a great hang. Glue 1/2 of each to the back and then glue one down each end It would however need to be a precision mounting. Jack

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"Don't change horses in midstream, unless you spot one with longer legs" bronzeo oti
Jack Davis
1410 Main St
Joplin, MO 64801
www.imagemakerart.com
jack@imagemakerart.com

Posts: 1549 | From: Joplin, MO | Registered: Mar 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Cam Bortz
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Member # 55

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You might consider using what's called a french cleat, used for hanging cabinets. essentially, it's a strip of wood mounted horizontally on the back of the sign; the bottom edge of the wood is cut at an angle of 45*. A matching strip is mounted to the wall, with the same angle on the top edge. In use, the strip on the sign sits on top of the strip mounted to the wall; the angled cut on both pieces match up, and the weight of the sign holds it securely in place. This is devilishly hard to describe; e-mail me and I'll draw a diagram. This system is so strong and dead simple, I'm surpried it's not more commonly used.

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"A wise man concerns himself with the truth, not with what people believe." - Aristotle


Cam Bortz
Finest Kind Signs
Pondside Iron works
256 S. Broad St.
Pawcatuck, Ct. 06379
"Award winning Signs since 1988"

Posts: 3051 | From: Pawcatuck,Connecticut USA | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
   

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