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I've painted alot of HDU signs but never had a call for sandblasted redwood until now. Do you use the same primer(J.Cook - 3 coats) and same paint(1-shot or Ronan - 2 coats)???? Can someone give me some ideas? Thanks. Judy
-------------------- Judy Hilliker/owner Hae Jude Custom Signs Silver Creek, NY www.haejude.com Posts: 65 | From: Silver Creek, NY 14136 USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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Judy, We have had good success with Jay Cooke's primer, acrylic latex paints and solid color stains on redwood. You can also prime it with solid color stain and topcoat with either Oneshot or acrylic latex. Have had poor results with Ronan bulletin enamel. It likes to fade and peel. the only thing I use Oneshot for is pictorials.
We also use FirstStep primer. BTW, nice looking website, logo and signs!
-------------------- Wayne Webb Webb Signworks Chipley, FL 850.638.9329 wayne@webbsignworks.com Posts: 7404 | From: Chipley,Florida,United States | Registered: Oct 1999
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Yes, you can use the same procedure, although I would suggest the use of latex paints instead of enamels as it allows the wood to "breathe". Whatever paint you choose, be sure to coat all the surfaces equally to help avoid warpage.
-------------------- Chapman Sign Studio Temple, Texas chapmanstudio@sbcglobal.net Posts: 6306 | From: Temple, Texas, USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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Are you talking about the latex house paints - 100% acrylic. The local paint store can computer match colors if needed. I've used this also when I've had to match a color. This is ok. right? Judy
-------------------- Judy Hilliker/owner Hae Jude Custom Signs Silver Creek, NY www.haejude.com Posts: 65 | From: Silver Creek, NY 14136 USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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We use Zinsser (I think that is how it is spelled) primer or Kilz white primer for our signs. We use laytex for the backgrounds or 1-SHOT backgroud colors. and regular stain for natural finishes.
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After using Jay Cooke's primer for several years, we found as many failures with it as anything else. We're back to using the oil based Z-Prime that is sold locally. Following two coats of primer we continue painting with latex acrylic house paints. The lettering is usually surfaced with lettering enamel. Often we don't paint the backgrounds, but stain them with penetrating oil stains. We first get several coats of primer and one coat of enamel on the raised surface first. Then wipe excess stain from letter surface and give a final coat. Hope you're finding help from these replys.
-------------------- The SignShop Mendocino, California
Making the simple complicated is commonplace; making the complicated simple, awesomely simple, that's creativity. — Charles Mingus Posts: 6750 | From: Mendocino, CA. USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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I was thinking the same as Rick. Redwood is so pretty...why not stain it instead of cover it. (unless your customer is insisting paint)
Posts: 3729 | From: Seattle | Registered: Sep 1999
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Whatever brand you use, stick with 100% acrylic - whatever series is the top of the line.
Personally, I use Sherwin Williams "Super Paint" and Porter - which I get from Rhino Paint Company (Gary Anderson). My preference is Porter because it is clear and creamy all the way to the bottom of the can. No lumps, no matter how many times you open and close the can.
-------------------- Chapman Sign Studio Temple, Texas chapmanstudio@sbcglobal.net Posts: 6306 | From: Temple, Texas, USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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I agree with Ray on the Porter paints...how ever one of the easiest adn best I've found are the Five Star line of latex from Ace hardware.
I use no primer but always put a mininum of two liberal coats. And for lettering or detail work I go right over the top of the latex with One Shot and sometime right over that with H/P Vinyl.
We're in Oklahoma and believe me...the weather here eats most signs in one to two years (depending on location) but I have many redwood signs that go 5 to 8 years with this method.
[ October 04, 2002, 11:32 PM: Message edited by: Monte Jumper ]
-------------------- "Werks fer me...it'll werk fer you"
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Redwood does not always require priming. If painting a dark color, I use Sherwin Williams Super Paint directly on the wood. If painting a light color, I first prime with an oil base primer to seal in the tannin. Tannin can bleed through a dozen coats of light colored water borne paint, if not sealed in with oil base sealer.
I have also used automotive acrylic enamels with polyurethane flex additive directly on the wood. With this paint combo, light colors can be applied without sealing. The problem with this is the paint cost is over $100 per gallon. I have signs finished this way that have been out there about a decade that are still quite fresh.
-------------------- David Harding A Sign of Excellence Carrollton, TX Posts: 5101 | From: Carrollton, TX, USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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