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» The Letterville BullBoard » Old Archives » Which Brush should I get for Lettering?

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Author Topic: Which Brush should I get for Lettering?
Jaime Doyle
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Member # 2422

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Looking into buying some brushes.. Being as a beginner, I want to get the good brush to start.... I will be looking into doing lettering signs, window splashes, vehicle, vinyl and so on... Just wanted to know if you were doing lettering and which brushes do you most recommend... I got my Mack brush catalog, and want to order soon as possible..

Thanks a Bunch... [Eek!]

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Jaime Doyle
Doyle Sign & Web Design
RR1 Box 351-C
Grampian, PA

Posts: 79 | From: Grampian, PA | Registered: Oct 2001  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
PKing
Deceased


Member # 337

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Macks are ok
Lucos greys are the standard
Langnickle browns work well
These are all "quill" type brushes used in the industry for oil based paint.
My advise would be get one of each to try till
you find one that fits!
Hope this helps

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PKing is
Pat King
The Professor of
SIGNOLOGY

Posts: 3113 | From: Pompano Beach, FL. USA | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Richard Bustamante
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Member # 370

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There are several types to choose from, and all depend on the type of lettering you are doing. I wouldn't use one of my lettering quills to do a window splash, and I wouldn't use a fitch to letter a vehicle.

Quils: are used for mainly fine single stroke lettering. They usually have a plastic ferrel that are tied at the end with a small wire. They come in # number sizes; #2, #3, #4 and so on. They come in a variety if hair.

Flats: Are mainly for larger lettering, both single stroke, or to fill in after you've "cut" the edges. They have a metal ferrel, and have "flat" properties.

Fitch: These usually have course hair, and are used for rough surfaces like walls, and brick. They are short haired, with a metal ferrel.

All of the above brushes are mainly used for oil type paint. I would have to sugest a 1/4" or 1/2" flat. The most easiest style to letter is "Dom Casual" italic. That letterstyle is all "up`stroke" with a few exceptions like the leg of an "R" or "Q". Good Luck.

Richard Bustamante
Nevada City, Califrnia
www.signsinthepines.com

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Richard Bustamante
Signs in the Pines
www.signsinthepines.com

Posts: 781 | From: Nevada City, California | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Jaime Doyle
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Member # 2422

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Thanks for great advice... Now, i can order some brushes, so will be doing some practice...

Thanks again...

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Jaime Doyle
Doyle Sign & Web Design
RR1 Box 351-C
Grampian, PA

Posts: 79 | From: Grampian, PA | Registered: Oct 2001  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
JoAnna
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Member # 2838

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You can purchase an assortment of Mack lettering brushes at Lazerlines.com! We will soon be offering other makers of lettering brushes.

Another shameless plug for Lazerlines.com! [Wink]

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JoAnna

Posts: 76 | From: Pasadena, TX | Registered: Mar 2002  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Jeff Ogden
Resident


Member # 3184

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That was a good rundown of the basic brushes. I think I would say get a couple of each: say maybe a #6 and a #8 quill, and maybe a 1/2" and a 3/4" truck flat (metal furrels). I'd hold off on the fitches 'till later. Only practice with real one-shot enamel...don't try to learn with some K-Mart paint, it'll mess you up.

Practice putting some paint in a small dixie cup(the unwaxed variety) and brushing out some paint on a pallet. Try to feel the pull of the paint. If you see the brush sling aroung when you pull a stroke you may have the paint too thin. Too thick and one stroke will glob up on the next one and it will have a harder pull. You want to feel a little drag. Thats gonna help you control the brush a lot.

Then practice.practice, practice. I agree that dom or any casual "brush" style would be the best one to learn first.It would be helpful if you could get a pounce pattern made at a local shop of the whole font...then you would have a good guide to follow. Always paint on a slick enamel surface, not a flat,dry one.Try making each stroke go as far as you can, and look at the whole letter whenever possible. Don't get "stuck" on a little corner ...try to paint each section in one stroke. And have a good time! Turn some music on. Relax. Many people get too uptight while trying to letter. Just kinda breathe out and let it flow.

Thats my story and I'm stickin'to it !

[ September 13, 2002, 09:46 PM: Message edited by: Jeff Ogden ]

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Jeff Ogden
8727 NE 68 Terr.
Gainesville FL, 32609

Posts: 2138 | From: 8827 NE 68 Terr Gainesville Fl 32609 | Registered: Aug 2002  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Jaime Doyle
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Member # 2422

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Thanks Jeff for the advice... Definetly Practice and Practice... Will not be getting no Kmart paint... That would be last thing on earth to use... I have been using one shot paint.. Do you any kind of thinner to thin little bit, wasn't sure if there certain kind have to use... I will be getting these brushes soon... I have been practicing with the regular paint brushes and its a nitemare... When I went to Letterhead meet in Mars, I realize those quill brushes were great.. More smooth paint, and will be looking forward to be doing more... [Big Grin]

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Jaime Doyle
Doyle Sign & Web Design
RR1 Box 351-C
Grampian, PA

Posts: 79 | From: Grampian, PA | Registered: Oct 2001  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
ScooterX
Resident


Member # 2023

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well, i'm pretty much a begginer too (at lettering with a brush). i found that the #6 or #8 quills were the easiest for me to practice with. i'd suggest a range of #3, #6 and #10 for starters, just to see what feels good to you. You can paint some big letters with a 10, and some small ones with a 3, and everything else is a 6. Personally, I found that the Mack 189 (or 189L) suited my hand well. The grey squirrel hair is a bit more durable and suited for a variety of work.

you might also try a scroll brush for scrip work and a liner (not a pinstriper, but a long-handled brush for outlining letters). that way you'll know what those brushes can do. Try the Mack 839 (#2) for a liner, and a Mack 258 (Synthetic!) rigger.

OR, call up Mack and ask their advice -- I've found them really helpful. QH&F (Quill Hair and Ferrule) are also a good source, and will help you out. they stock most of the Mack brushes.

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:: Scooter Marriner ::
:: Coyote Signs ::
:: Oakland, CA ::
:: still a beginner ::
::

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Jeff Ogden
Resident


Member # 3184

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J;
You asked about thinner.Just get some Odorless mineral spirits in a quart size would be fine for what you're doing.For real signs you can use that too, or try some of One Shots reducers. They have one for hot weather and one for cool days. There are all sorts of concoctions that various "old pros" have made up themselves for various jobs and conditions, but you need to keep things simple at first. If you have something like a Frenches mustard bottle, you could keep your spirits in there. The little top twists up and down so you can adjust from a squeeze to just a drop at a time. When you thin one-shot do it sparingly, if at all.
Have fun!!!!!!

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Jeff Ogden
8727 NE 68 Terr.
Gainesville FL, 32609

Posts: 2138 | From: 8827 NE 68 Terr Gainesville Fl 32609 | Registered: Aug 2002  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
JohnnyUtah
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Member # 3172

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I do what Joey Madden says to do!
Dont thin your paint with evaporating solvents!
They dont flow out as much color for one,also the paint will dry in the brush faster,thin paint is harder to control.

I am using kerosene mixed with 1-shot.It flows like you wouldn't believe and much better control,the loaed brush lasts longer.
Put a small amount of paint in a dixie,add a few drops of kero,mix,load brush and hold the brush above the cup and get it to drip with a slight hesitation.Then pallet the brush and go,you will see the difference.
I am a beginner also but am striping.I have been lettering dirt track cars for 5 years.
Now that i got a good,easy to handle paint flow,I am advancing quickly.
Gotta have talent but also the proper set-up is as important.

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JohnnyUtah
fatphords@hotmail.com
No buisness,a hobbyist.

Posts: 8 | From: Kansas | Registered: Aug 2002  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Jaime Doyle
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Member # 2422

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Thanks John...

Now using the kerosene with one-shot.. Wouldn't that affect the sticking to the material?? Never done that though, will give a try...
When doing the painting on motorcycle, do u put any coat on top to make it last longer??

Thanks Jeff... Will be getting some of those Oderless mineral spirits... Defintely Oderless, cause I can't stand the fuse smell...

Thanks Letterhead for all the advice... Did learn alot here...

Letterhead RULES!!! [Eek!]

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Jaime Doyle
Doyle Sign & Web Design
RR1 Box 351-C
Grampian, PA

Posts: 79 | From: Grampian, PA | Registered: Oct 2001  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
   

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