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What brand of application tape do you use when applying sandblast resist? I have tried clear (various types), paper (various types).
Last resist I bought was the Anchor 130 Low Tack to use on prepainted surfaces. I cannot get that stuff to stick without the application tape pulling it right up. Even with the lowest tack app. tape I could find at my supplier.
Is it the app. tape or the resist? I think I'm switching back to Hartco. Just seems to work better for me. The thing I am not sure about is how much sticky residue the Hartco will leave.
Thanks for letting me rant!
-------------------- Amy Brown Life Skills 101 Private Address Posts: 3502 | From: Lake Helen, FL, USA | Registered: Feb 2001
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If you weed it before you apply it you can blast right through the application tape
-------------------- Jimmy Chatham Chatham Signs 468 stark st Commerce, Ga 30529 Posts: 1766 | From: Commerce, GA, USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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What kind of paint are you putting the stencil over? Are you using a satin paint? If you are that could be the problem. I use Anchor #153 LOW TACK stencil and Transfer-rite HIGH TACK application tape and it works fine over GLOSS or HIGH GLOSS paints, either OneShot or acryic latex. I don't have ANY problems with the stencil coming up at all. I also apply TWO layers(except for really small signs) of application tape to the stencil to eliminate any chance of distortion.
-------------------- Wayne Webb Webb Signworks Chipley, FL 850.638.9329 wayne@webbsignworks.com Posts: 7404 | From: Chipley,Florida,United States | Registered: Oct 1999
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I like your plan Jimmy...had the worst time on the last sign..will try next time....
-------------------- Mario G. Lafreniere (Fergie) J&N Signs Winter did show up! Posts: 1257 | From: Chapleau, Ontario | Registered: Jun 1999
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TransferRite lift-off tape... high tack for our humid conditions. But, lately, I too have been having problems with the 130. But, it is so far better than the 117 for HDU that I will learn to live with it and do whatever is necessary to make it work for me.
[ September 06, 2002, 03:27 PM: Message edited by: John Smith ]
-------------------- John Smith Kings Bay Signs (Retired) Kissimmee, Florida Posts: 816 | From: Central Florida - The Sunshine State | Registered: Jan 2000
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I first cut the resist 2 times, and clean with alcohol, then apply clear packaging tape, then tape in position and remove the backing and roll with a rubber Brayer....Then I remove tape and weed and re roll with the Brayer... I have used this method for several years with good success. When I use the resist over raw HDU I spray a coat of 3M Adhesive to the back of the resist after I remove the backing and before I apply it to the raw HDU Shep'
-------------------- Arvil Shep' Shepherd Art by Shep' -------- " Those who dance are thought to be mad by those who cannot hear the music " Posts: 1281 | From: Mt Airy NC | Registered: Mar 2001
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We use the Anchor #155 high tack with regular duty paper application tape. If I'm blasting at a pressure over 125 pounds, I need to hold the nozzle back close to three feet from the wood, but with lower pressures I can get right in there. My Graphtec plotter cuts this stuff well, but I seldom cut stuff longer than ten feet long in one pass.
-------------------- The SignShop Mendocino, California
Making the simple complicated is commonplace; making the complicated simple, awesomely simple, that's creativity. — Charles Mingus Posts: 6718 | From: Mendocino, CA. USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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Rick, Do you have a problem with the adhesive goop sticking to the sign after you blast. That stuff caused me too much labor. I use the medium tack 435 by Hartco.
-------------------- Tom Bahr Custom Signs of St. Cloud, Inc. St. Cloud, MN 320-255-0588 tbahr@astound.net Posts: 71 | From: St. Cloud, MN | Registered: Apr 2002
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I use the blue Anchor (# escapes me) and regular transfer tape, no problems on enamels
-------------------- Ken McTague, Concept Signs 57 Bridge St. (route 107) Salem MA 01970 1-978-745-5800 conceptsign@yahoo.com http://www.pinheadlounge.com/CaptainKen
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"A wise man once said that, or was it a wise guy?" Posts: 2425 | From: Salem, MA | Registered: Apr 1999
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I've been using Anchor 125 for almost 20 years now. Mostly hand cut, but recently cutting VERY CAREFULLY on my Roland 950. On sf2 I would spray a "watered down" blockout coat on the foam before applying the rubber to bind the dust to the foam. I've been using the sf3 for a month or so and skipping the blockout. So far no problem. To apply the computer cut rubber I just use regular high tack app tape. I usually dust the foam with some Elmer's spray glue before applying. I also make sure to wipe all of the silicone dust off of the rubber before cutting on the plotter and before applying the transfer tape.
-------------------- Dennis Goddard
Gibsonton Fl Posts: 1050 | From: Tampa Fl USA | Registered: Apr 2000
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