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Here's an idea for you to try....Get a straight edge, a utility knife and score the front. Pull it to the edge of the table, and snap it on the score line, you will likely have to work it back and forth (up and down) to get the scrim on the reverse to break loose, but in my experience it will make a clean edge that will need just a little burnishing, and it will make practically no mess at all (especially compared to a circular saw. I have personally never used this product in particular, but there are several clones of similar make and this is how I cut all this type of material when it comes to straight lines..
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Any blade that will cut wood will cut BeBond. Cutting with a circular saw, jig saw, scroll saw, band saw, or router does make a lot of chips, but I sweep them up when finished. If the piece is going to be where people can touch it, I smooth the edges with a random orbit sander.
-------------------- Don Hulsey Strokes by DON signs Utica, KY 270-275-9552 sbdsigns@aol.com
I've always been crazy... but it's kept me from going insane. Posts: 2273 | From: Utica, KY U.S.A. | Registered: Jan 1999
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I have carbide blades in my table saw, radial arm saw and portable saws. I went for as many teeth as I could get on them (60 to 80 teeth on the larger blades) and bought them reasonably priced at Home Depot. I don't remember how many teeth are on my portable saw blades. They cut composite materials just fine. I use a file to ease the edges.
Of course, filing the edges brings up a story. Some years ago, we hired a young man on the high school work program and had him working in the shop. A few weeks later, the counselor wanted a report and was shocked that he was working around saws and the like. The counselor said she wanted him filing in the office. After that, whenever we had to ease the edges on something cut, the shop foreman put him in the office with a file. Thereafter, the counselor was very pleased to know he was filing in the office.
-------------------- David Harding A Sign of Excellence Carrollton, TX Posts: 5084 | From: Carrollton, TX, USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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You can get 40 and 60-tooth carbide blades in the 7-1/4 inch size. They're often called "trim" blades, with thinner kerfs. Thin kerfs work your saw motor less.
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On the subject of saw motors, here's something I was told by a friend of mine that was a motor re-winder. He was talking about the importance of not overworking a saw motor by using a cord that was too long or too light. Which I kind of knew already, but he explained why: When a saw motor overheats there is a tendency for the insulation on the wires in the windings to soften and melt. Done repeatedly, this weakens the motor over time. You may not even notice it that much. You may think your blades are just getting duller quicker, when, in reality, your saw motor is losing strength. The enemy is heat, generated by the resistance caused by a drop cord that is either too lightweight or too long.
-------------------- Brad Ferguson See More Signs 7931 Wornall Rd Kansas City, MO 64111 signbrad@yahoo.com 816-739-7316 Posts: 1230 | From: Kansas City, MO, USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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quote:Thereafter, the counselor was very pleased to know he was filing in the office.
Now THAT is a funny anecdote David!!!!
Thanks for the chuckle and knowing a little bit about school systems, I'll bet it is pretty accurate.
[ January 31, 2017, 10:30 PM: Message edited by: Dave Grundy ]
-------------------- Dave Grundy retired in Chelem,Yucatan,Mexico/Hensall,Ontario,Canada 1-519-262-3651 Canada 011-52-1-999-102-2923 Mexico cell 1-226-785-8957 Canada/Mexico home
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