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So I'm getting back into using redwood again. I'm actually cutting up some old signs and running them through the planer to make new signs. So what are you guys and gals that use redwood and cedar use for a primer for latex top coat?
-------------------- Dave Sherby "Sandman" SherWood Sign & Graphic Design Crystal Falls, MI 49920 906-875-6201 sherwoodsign@sbcglobal.net Posts: 5396 | From: Crystal Falls, MI USA | Registered: Apr 1999
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Ben Moore Fresh Start. Not the Fresh Start "Superior" though ........ it dries faster but balls up in the sandpaper.
Actually, I was switching to MF Adhero ( Canadian) but they reformulated & have issues with it drying on non-absorbent substrates so they pulled it. Wouldn't it have been nice if 1-shot had done this back when their paint was lasting 18 months?
-------------------- Rodger MacMunn T.R. MacMunn & Sons C.P.207, Sharbot Lake, ON 613-279-1230 trmac@frontenac.net Posts: 472 | From: Sharbot Lake, Ontario | Registered: Nov 2003
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pure acrlyic primers will not be affected by tanins in redwood or cedar. Naturally I suggest the Chromatic (both primers and ti-cote) but there are many others.
-------------------- Kent Smith Smith Sign Studio P.O.Box 2385, Estes Park, CO 80517-2385 kent@smithsignstudio.com Posts: 1025 | From: Estes Park, CO | Registered: Nov 1998
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Dave...a few years back I had a big contract with a company...it involved ds cedar dimensional signs with brick columns at over 25 locations...all the backgrounds needed to be a light tan so the company logo and lettering could be read which were a medium to dark blue...after the first sign or two I began to panic because the tanins began to migrate right through the paint...horrible dirty looking stains coming through my freshly painted backgrounds...it didn't matter how many coats of paint I put on...the stains bleed through...I thought I was using the best Kilz primer they made...it was a water based primer and I had never had a problem before...I called the company for some feedback...turns out Kilz makes an oil based primer called Kilz Exterior which is their very best...it was hard to find...it doesn't seem to be that popular for some reason...I reprimed and repainted my ruined signs...no tanins bleed through this time...I finished all the signs from the same batch of cedar using Kilz Exterior oil based primer and not a single problem...maybe this batch of cedar was for some reason extremely rich in tanins...I don't know...but to be on the safe side I have always used oil based Kilz Exterior on all my wooden signs with no further problems.
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Yes, agreed on the oil-based primer if you're worried about tannins bleeding through. However, that's only an issue on light coloured backgrounds.
-------------------- Rodger MacMunn T.R. MacMunn & Sons C.P.207, Sharbot Lake, ON 613-279-1230 trmac@frontenac.net Posts: 472 | From: Sharbot Lake, Ontario | Registered: Nov 2003
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Thanks Rusty, I forgot about oil based Kilz and I happen to have a gallon. The first thing I did Monday morning was call my local Benny Moore dealer and she no longer carries Fresh Start. Turns out she has switched some paints to Pratt & Lambert.
Edit: I grabbed my gallon of Kilz to look at the dry time and wouldn't you know, written right on top of the can in sharpie is "Good redwood primer." It's a bitch getting old.
[ December 18, 2013, 12:10 PM: Message edited by: Dave Sherby ]
-------------------- Dave Sherby "Sandman" SherWood Sign & Graphic Design Crystal Falls, MI 49920 906-875-6201 sherwoodsign@sbcglobal.net Posts: 5396 | From: Crystal Falls, MI USA | Registered: Apr 1999
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I've had too any failures with the oil based primers in recent years when I applied a light paint over them. We've been using a 100% acrylic as Kent stated with success, but often it requires three coats of primer. We've been using Kelly Moore Acry-Shield. Wood Primer
-------------------- The SignShop Mendocino, California
Making the simple complicated is commonplace; making the complicated simple, awesomely simple, that's creativity. — Charles Mingus Posts: 6713 | From: Mendocino, CA. USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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Solid color waterbased stains always worked well for me. Two coats. The only one I remember having a problem with was some "baby blue" stain on some small western cedar signs, But an extra coat did the trick
-------------------- Wayne Webb Webb Signworks Chipley, FL 850.638.9329 wayne@webbsignworks.com Posts: 7403 | From: Chipley,Florida,United States | Registered: Oct 1999
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I use two coats of acrylic stain blocking primer. I think the key is letting each coat cure well before top coating. That locks in the tannin so it won't bleed into the next coat so much. If I see tannin streaks after two coats I wait a few hours and hit those areas with shellac. Then paint. Works for me.
-------------------- Chuck Peterson Designs San Diego, CA Posts: 1050 | From: San Diego, CA USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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quote:If I see tannin streaks after two coats I wait a few hours and hit those areas with shellac. Then paint. Works for me.
why not shellac it first?
-------------------- Leaper of Tall buildings.. If you find my posts divisive or otherwise snarky please ignore them. If you do not know how then PM me about it and I will demonstrate. Posts: 5274 | From: Im a nowhere man | Registered: Jul 2001
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I suppose you could do that. I just use shellac as a last resort if tannin keeps bleeding into the primer. Its hard to tell which areas have tannin before priming.
-------------------- Chuck Peterson Designs San Diego, CA Posts: 1050 | From: San Diego, CA USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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I've always been partial to oil-based primers. The first coat is thinned by 25% with paint thinner. A second coat is at full strength. Use acrylics for top coat. Never had a failure.
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