-------------------- joe pribish-A SIGN MINT 2811 longleaf Dr. pensacola, fl 32526 850-637-1519 BEWARE THE TRUTH.....YOU MAY NOT LIKE WHAT YOU FIND Posts: 11582 | From: pensacola, fl. usa | Registered: Nov 1998
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-------------------- John Arnott El Cajon CA 619 596-9989 signgraphics1@aol.com http://www.signgraphics1.com Posts: 1443 | From: El Cajon CA usa | Registered: Dec 1998
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posted
? That's interesting, John. I was told not to use it for exterior work like that on account of expansion & contraction issues, especially considering colour differences between black & white parts.
Would you do the top part as several layers, glued together, or one piece, routed out of a thicker base?
-------------------- "Stewey" on chat
"...there are no limits when you aim for perfection..." Jonathan Livingston Seagull Posts: 7014 | From: Highgrove via Toowoomba, Queensland, Australia | Registered: Dec 2002
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posted
My tendency would be to use acrylic. The sign has a high end look to it, and acrylic would be a little more stable than PVC and easy to stud mount.
It's hard to tell thicknesses from the photo. Could the middle layer be HDU?
-------------------- Brad Ferguson See More Signs 7931 Wornall Rd Kansas City, MO 64111 signbrad@yahoo.com 816-739-7316 Posts: 1230 | From: Kansas City, MO, USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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PVC shouldn't be a problem. I'd put a few pins in the back of the dark letters and silicone them. I've got one up now 10 years. Facing north.
-------------------- John Arnott El Cajon CA 619 596-9989 signgraphics1@aol.com http://www.signgraphics1.com Posts: 1443 | From: El Cajon CA usa | Registered: Dec 1998
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Brad, Could each layer of acrylic be sprayed with the desired color to save having to buy a separate sheet of each one(asuming you mean clear acrylic)
John, Do you paint both sides of the PVC to prevent warping?
Thanks
-------------------- Wayne Webb Webb Signworks Chipley, FL 850.638.9329 wayne@webbsignworks.com Posts: 7403 | From: Chipley,Florida,United States | Registered: Oct 1999
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No.....the back side is rough sanded for glue.
-------------------- John Arnott El Cajon CA 619 596-9989 signgraphics1@aol.com http://www.signgraphics1.com Posts: 1443 | From: El Cajon CA usa | Registered: Dec 1998
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Everything looks pretty thick. So, I would likely use a combination of materials.
For the logo, I probably would use a MDO backer/outline, HDU for the 2nd outline and PVC or acrylic for the text - all depending on the thickness.
The support text would either be formed letters or whatever "extra" material I have remaining.
Havin' fun,
Checkers
-------------------- a.k.a. Brian Born www.CheckersCustom.com Harrisburg, Pa Work Smart, Play Hard Posts: 3775 | From: Harrisburg, Pa. U.S.A. | Registered: Nov 1998
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Yay, I can see clearly now.... From the looks of that pic, it's fairly thick. I think I'd probably use HDU.....not only to not have to deal with the expansion/contraction issues, but for lighter weight also.
It looks like a couple of the layers are of different thicknesses. For simplicity's sake, and unless the customer wants it, just make them all the same.
-------------------- Dale Feicke Grafix 714 East St. Mendenhall, MS 39114
"I can do all things through Christ, who strengthens me." Posts: 2963 | From: Mendenhall, MS | Registered: Apr 1999
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Thanks Dale and Tim. I quoted it as routing the thing from a solid piece of 30" x 120" x 2" thick 15lb HDU routed to three levels and with a metal backer board laminated for stud mounting to the wall $2247 tax incl. cash and carry,no installation and also told him he would need engineer drawings and seal. I already told him I wouldn't install it but he keeps emailing me anyway. Two days ago I told him I charge $250 to begin artwork and he still wants to see what it's going to look like so I reminded him again.
Thanks for the help guys!
-------------------- Wayne Webb Webb Signworks Chipley, FL 850.638.9329 wayne@webbsignworks.com Posts: 7403 | From: Chipley,Florida,United States | Registered: Oct 1999
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