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» The Letterville BullBoard » Letterhead/Pinstriper Talk » No clear coat , so what vinyl and what wax?

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Author Topic: No clear coat , so what vinyl and what wax?
Dita Mallon
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Member # 3196

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I have been searching on this forum about clear coats. I have also run into issues with clear coats and wondered if it was worth even messing with. I have a large sign to do for a business in town and I'm using polymetal for the substrate and vinyl lettering. What have you found to be the best vinyl for brutal Iowa winters and Hot summers? Waxing would help, right? So what wax should I use?

Also read about offering the customer a sign maintence contract. So I would go twice a year and rewax the sign. Am I on the right page with that?

Just want these signs to last and look good.

Thanks for any information.

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Dita Mallon
Dita's Graphics and Signs, Inc.
Sumner, Ia

Posts: 119 | From: Sumner, Iowa | Registered: Aug 2002  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
stein Saether
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In Norway with temps between + 30 and - 30(C),3M have never failed, no waxing either [Wink]

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Stein Saether
GullSkilt AS
Trondheim

Posts: 1183 | From: Trondheim Norway | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
W. R. Pickett
Visitor
Member # 3842

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Perhaps you can explain that vinyl signs are your cheapest, low end product, and they just don't last more than several years. And they, the client should expect on either maintaining it on a regular basis, or replacing it before it falls apart.

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WR Pickett
Richmond, Va.

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Raymond Chapman
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We never clear or wax anything and we live in Texas, where the summers are brutal.

The only clear that will outlast the substrate and vinyl are two-part automotive clears, but I still think that the best procedure is to use premium grade high performance vinyl and a substrate that will last as long as the vinyl - no clear.

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Chapman Sign Studio
Temple, Texas
chapmanstudio@sbcglobal.net

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Checkers
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Hiya Dita,
The only time we clear-coat (paint or film) is for vandal protection or abrasion resistance. Anything else, i.m.h.o., is a waste of materials and money.

Havin' fun,

Checkers

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a.k.a. Brian Born
www.CheckersCustom.com
Harrisburg, Pa
Work Smart, Play Hard

Posts: 3775 | From: Harrisburg, Pa. U.S.A. | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Jon Butterworth
Deceased


Member # 227

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No wax or clear coat here either.

I just as my customers how often they wash their car [Smile]

Warm soapy water and a good hose down every now and then removes grime and oxidation and leaves the sign like new again.

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Bushie^
aka Jon Butterworth

Executive Director
HARDLY NORMAL
SIGN COMPANY

http://www.icr.com.au/~jonsigns

Posts: 4014 | From: Toowoomba, Queensland, Australia | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Dita Mallon
Resident


Member # 3196

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Thank you for the helpful information.
You made up my mind. High quality vinyl and nothing else on top.
So, here's the big question. What do you think is a high quality vinyl?????

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Dita Mallon
Dita's Graphics and Signs, Inc.
Sumner, Ia

Posts: 119 | From: Sumner, Iowa | Registered: Aug 2002  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Jon Butterworth
Deceased


Member # 227

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Any cast vinyl. I use Callon II and never had any problems. In fact it lasts longer than their specifications.

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Bushie^
aka Jon Butterworth

Executive Director
HARDLY NORMAL
SIGN COMPANY

http://www.icr.com.au/~jonsigns

Posts: 4014 | From: Toowoomba, Queensland, Australia | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Dave Grundy
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For many years I used Avery cast vinyl and never had a failure, in fact, 15 year old signs still look good. In later years Avery products started to deterioate, shrink and peel off.

I'd think 3M would be a way to go now.

edited to add that if you Do want to clearcoat anything, 2 part automotive clearcoat is the only way to go.

Wear a respirator while in contact with the product though...all the way from mixing to spraying or rolling.

[ January 05, 2011, 06:42 PM: Message edited by: Dave Grundy ]

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Dave Grundy
retired in Chelem,Yucatan,Mexico/Hensall,Ontario,Canada
1-519-262-3651 Canada
011-52-1-999-102-2923 Mexico cell
1-226-785-8957 Canada/Mexico home

dave.grundy@hotmail.com

Posts: 8874 | From: Chelem, Yucatan, Mexico/Hensall, Ontario, Canada | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Lori Wilcox
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We get our local auto body shop to clear coat bench signs for us - they are clear coated so people don't pick at the vinyl. Although we have the tools to do the job, we don't have to deal with the time element, ventilation, respirators and cleaning the gun. Works for us! Cost wise, we could hardly do it as cheap.

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Lori Wilcox
Tabby Ink
Hinton, Alberta Canada
Ph 780-865-4305

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stein Saether
Resident


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3M 70 series

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Stein Saether
GullSkilt AS
Trondheim

Posts: 1183 | From: Trondheim Norway | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Ray Rheaume
Resident


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Calon II, no wax or clear.

Mine have been through several tough northern New England seasons without a problem.

Rapid

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Ray Rheaume
Rapidfire Design
543 Brushwood Road
North Haverhill, NH 03774
rapidfiredesign@hotmail.com
603-787-6803

I like my paint shaken, not stirred.

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Raymond Chapman
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We use only 3M/Gerber Scotchcal 220. Never had a failure.

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Chapman Sign Studio
Temple, Texas
chapmanstudio@sbcglobal.net

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roger bailey
Merchant


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Wax will clog the poures of the vinyl and help absorb u.v. rays.
Then it turns chalky and looks faded.
Roger

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Roger Bailey
Rapid Tac Incorporated
186 Combs Dr.
Merlin Oregon
97532

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Dita Mallon
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Okay, I'm convinced. Thank you very much for all your help. I'm going to go with 3M for vinyl.
Ya'll are the best!!!

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Dita Mallon
Dita's Graphics and Signs, Inc.
Sumner, Ia

Posts: 119 | From: Sumner, Iowa | Registered: Aug 2002  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
   

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