posted
Hey- I am finishing up sandblasting a sign, and it is time to prime!! But it is not yet ready for prime time! I procrastinated a while, and left the stencil on too long. Now there is lots of glue left, after removing stencil. I have rubbed off some of it, but some remains. Anyone have any suggestions about glue removal, on bare wood? I should have primed and painted first, but just put it on there anyway.....it looks great...how can I remove the glue? never again will I sandblast stencil on bare wood!! If you have facebook, here is a video on me doing this sign: http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=1468518385498 Thalks! Shon
-------------------- Light and Shadow Manzanita,Oregon shonlenzo@hotmail.com Posts: 286 | From: Manzanita,Oregon | Registered: Feb 2000
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Making the simple complicated is commonplace; making the complicated simple, awesomely simple, that's creativity. — Charles Mingus Posts: 6712 | From: Mendocino, CA. USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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Sometimes you can use another sticky substance, such as more paint mask or duct tape, to peel off the remaining adhesive residue. And try a couple different techniques because it sometimes works when you stick and peel straight up while others it works by pulling sideways or sliding.
Then again, it may not work at all and sanding is the only option. Good luck!
Havin' fun,
Checkers
-------------------- a.k.a. Brian Born www.CheckersCustom.com Harrisburg, Pa Work Smart, Play Hard Posts: 3775 | From: Harrisburg, Pa. U.S.A. | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted
I have successfully removed transfer tape guck from vinyl, stuck on due to leaving vinyl sign in the sun by accident, with Goo Gone. Available here at the Hardware Store. It may not work as well on bare wood though. And it has an oily residue. You might try a bit of it though and then sand. Worth a shot if you are desperate.
-------------------- Deri Russell Wildwood Signs Hanover, Ontario
You're just jealous 'cause the little voices only talk to me. Posts: 1904 | From: Hanover, Ontario, Canada | Registered: Dec 1998
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posted
On Bare wood I would try using Reducer But don't wipe it off scrape it off as you want to be careful not to push the glue into the pores of the wood. Then sand. Reducer will evaporate very fast and won't leave a residue behind. Then prime with an Oil Based primer. I would reduce my first primer coat to more of a stain consistency and give it a light coat letting the primer soak in, Sand, then prime as normal with unreduced primer. The reason being if you didn't get all glue it would be absorbed by the reduced primer
I love rapid remover but I think it would leave and oil residue behind that would soak into the pores of the wood.
posted
I would try Rick's solution first, or if any kids are available; Mike's
If this doesn't get it all, and there's alot of stubborn goo left, try rubbing it with some powdered Bon Ami cleanser. The Bon Ami will make the adhesive turn loose and roll up in little clumps. Then sand it.
-------------------- Wayne Webb Webb Signworks Chipley, FL 850.638.9329 wayne@webbsignworks.com Posts: 7403 | From: Chipley,Florida,United States | Registered: Oct 1999
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posted
Thanks, guys- What do you thinbk about using Naptha? Or mineral spirits? I am going to try things, hpewfully not push it into the wood too far... never again wil I sandblast stnecil on bare wood! Shon
-------------------- Light and Shadow Manzanita,Oregon shonlenzo@hotmail.com Posts: 286 | From: Manzanita,Oregon | Registered: Feb 2000
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posted
Shon, I quit blasting with stencil on bare wood about 15 years ago partially for the reasons you described.
After making my redwood sign blank, I coat with FirstStep primer, let dry, sand down the raised grain, spray with two thin coats acrylic latex with an HVLP gun, let dry for about 5 days, apply Anchor Continental #153 computer-cut stencil, blast with medium sand (re-sifted through window screen) at about 85-90 lbs pressure, before removing the stencil, spray the background with either one coat of solid-color waterbased stain and two coats acrylic latex, or two coats solid-color stain. Begin removing the stencil just as the paint or stain begins to dry on the surface.
-------------------- Wayne Webb Webb Signworks Chipley, FL 850.638.9329 wayne@webbsignworks.com Posts: 7403 | From: Chipley,Florida,United States | Registered: Oct 1999
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posted
I've done this several times...seems some people never learn...first I do like checkers says and use some of my sandblast stencil...rubbing it across the surface will pick up most of the adhesive...however there are always areas that you cant get up...at his point some sanding will take off a little more...but in some areas the sanding will just smear the adhesive across the surface and remain...whether a good idea or bad...I now take mineral spirits to those areas and rub til clean...then when good and dry I take the sander to it pretty aggressively...I sand til I think I'm down to pretty clean wood...I then prime and paint as I normally do...I've never had a paint failure.
posted
Wayne, I'm with you on First Step, but now what are we going to use since the company that made First Step has closed down, belly up, dead as a door nail, kaput. I'm bummed.
What is the alternative?
-------------------- Dave Sherby "Sandman" SherWood Sign & Graphic Design Crystal Falls, MI 49920 906-875-6201 sherwoodsign@sbcglobal.net Posts: 5396 | From: Crystal Falls, MI USA | Registered: Apr 1999
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posted
thanks, everyone! On looking at it lot closer, and thinking it over while scraping, I realized that the areas that are a problem are where the Wattco exterior finish came in contact with the stencil... I scraped w/ a razor, then sanded, not cleaning w/ mineral spirits. Will prime with thinned down 1 shot... It look great, alot of work but will be the last sign that lady will ever need! My other one lasted 25 years on the Northern Oregon Coast, never repainted, in 100 mile an hour wind and rain/sun weather.....until the business finally was no more there! Thanks!! \
-------------------- Light and Shadow Manzanita,Oregon shonlenzo@hotmail.com Posts: 286 | From: Manzanita,Oregon | Registered: Feb 2000
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posted
I seldom worry about adhesive left behind. With a 8" disk sander armed with 100p I buzz off a thousand or two leaving a spectacular surface.
If you use any kind of liquid to dissolve the adhesive, what you're doing is melting some of it in the pours.
Twenty years ago, while on a visit to my next door neighbor, Mike Jackson, I picked up on the 8" sanding disk techniques. It's so easy and fast to level out a fresh sandblast surface.
What makes SB mask give up it's glue? The most common reason is heat. I've found leaving signs out in the sun will cause problems. Also mask left on for several days often give up the adhesive. I've noticed our twin screw generated lots of heat during long blasting periods. This is a common problem for us because I like blasts around .75" deep.
There's a trade off between nozzle size and distance from the blasting surface. I'm using a 1/4" tip. that gets me far enough away from the surface to keep the heat down. But you'll need some serious air.
[ October 08, 2010, 07:36 PM: Message edited by: Joe Crumley ]
-------------------- Joe Crumley Norman Sign Company 2200 Research Park Blvd. Norman, OK 73069 Posts: 1428 | From: 2200 Research Park Blvd. | Registered: Sep 2001
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quote:Originally posted by Dave Sherby: Wayne, I'm with you on First Step, but now what are we going to use since the company that made First Step has closed down, belly up, dead as a door nail, kaput. I'm bummed.
What is the alternative?
Huh? I used some out of my gallon can several months ago to do a couple of redwood signs when one of my medical practice clients added new docs. I didn't know they were out of business. No sweat for me; it's NASTY stuff anyway. I prefer waterbased paints and HDU.
-------------------- Wayne Webb Webb Signworks Chipley, FL 850.638.9329 wayne@webbsignworks.com Posts: 7403 | From: Chipley,Florida,United States | Registered: Oct 1999
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posted
I mostly use HDU too, but, I still do have some redwood, and you can't beat it for blasting. I did a search on the company and found an article on the web that told of their demise.
-------------------- Dave Sherby "Sandman" SherWood Sign & Graphic Design Crystal Falls, MI 49920 906-875-6201 sherwoodsign@sbcglobal.net Posts: 5396 | From: Crystal Falls, MI USA | Registered: Apr 1999
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posted
alright!! the glue is gone, surface sanded.... I did clean it with mineral spirit afterwards. Looks Great! Will post a picture whenI am done if I can
-------------------- Light and Shadow Manzanita,Oregon shonlenzo@hotmail.com Posts: 286 | From: Manzanita,Oregon | Registered: Feb 2000
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posted
Just a quick note to say that I would NEVER use mineral spirits on raw wood as it leaves an oily residue that will cause intermittent adhesion of your primer and paint. Naphtha would be a better choice or alcohol which will remove the latex based adhesive and leave no residue. I also doubt that Rapid Remover would leave a residue that would be an issue for the primer. Latex adhesive is very unlikely to penetrate the porosity of the wood.
-------------------- Kent Smith Smith Sign Studio P.O.Box 2385, Estes Park, CO 80517-2385 kent@smithsignstudio.com Posts: 1025 | From: Estes Park, CO | Registered: Nov 1998
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