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A couple of years ago I was chatting with a very knowledgable fellow on the chat channel and we were comparing notes on exterior quality clears for natural wood finishes. I'm pretty sure his name was Mr.Peach but 2computers later all my notes are lost and today I'm looking to be re-informed. I beleive it was a Dupont catalyized clear he had much success with but would love to hear how others are managing this task. With new laws and manufacturer changes the Sikken's Cetol products I've used in the past just aren't up for the job I have in progress. I'd still like to use the Sikken's stain to achieve the colour with a better over-coat..... and also will it be possible to spray this over a 1-shot paint as well? The senario being natural wood....gold leaf(at the end of course) and one shot in selected areas. Thanx in advance for your input.
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I have freinds in the vintage & veteran car business & they like to 'varnish' the spokes of their old cars, instead of painting them.
Down here, the most successful of the modern types of clear seems to be a product called Epidure. It holds up well to all sorts of abuse as you'd expect in a wheel on a road.
I think it's a 2-part or 2-pack type of stuff.
-------------------- "Stewey" on chat
"...there are no limits when you aim for perfection..." Jonathan Livingston Seagull Posts: 7014 | From: Highgrove via Toowoomba, Queensland, Australia | Registered: Dec 2002
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Hi Doug, I use a product Larry Whan at Banff told me about. We use it on all our cedar signs it stays soft enough to be able to move with the wood, and we have had great results using it as it outlasts anything I've used in the past including sikkins...It takes 5 coat usually, the first is thinned near 50% and each consecutive coat has less thinner in it with the last coat having about 10% thinner...Its Nazdar 59000 Series Enamel Plus Gloss Screen Ink 59140 Overprint Clear....Not sure if thats what your looking for but at least you can research it and see if it will work for you...Pat
-------------------- Pat Welter Masterhand Signs and Designs Unity, Saskatchewan.Canada Posts: 1304 | From: Unity, Saskatchewan.Canada | Registered: May 1999
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Making the simple complicated is commonplace; making the complicated simple, awesomely simple, that's creativity. — Charles Mingus Posts: 6712 | From: Mendocino, CA. USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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Thanks very much for posting this question. I'm always interested in failures with these materials. I'm a devotee to Sikkens and it concerns me that you have questions about it's quality. I'm presently using Cetol 1 and Log & Siding. Both seems to holding up well. As you know the Log & Siding is about double the standard Cetol but when I double coat with Cetol 1 they look very close to the same. Do you know if one is better than the other.
It's my understanding Sikkens is coming out with a Marine Grade with extra UV. Could find it on their website but should hit the market soon.
Have you tried SRD 250? I understand it has a less glossy look. When I double coat with their standard products I get too much sheen.
[ September 06, 2010, 07:52 AM: Message edited by: Joe Crumley ]
-------------------- Joe Crumley Norman Sign Company 2200 Research Park Blvd. Norman, OK 73069 Posts: 1428 | From: 2200 Research Park Blvd. | Registered: Sep 2001
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Hi Joe and Rix and thanx for the input. I have several test products in my "back-yard" but none of which has had the required "know fer sure" time yet. It seems all the technology is moving towards the water based products but for me still to early to bet on one over another. I should try and photo the results thus far. Joe....the Sikkens door and Window I have been using has lost my trust, and their products in general...at least the finish coats. It requires UV light to cure which means summer only around here. It also needs refreshing every so many years and resist getting too specific but all to say I have not used any of their marine finishes....and am not sure this would even be the best route anywho. Last winter I got into this with a knowledgable friend (who ownes a specialty body shop) and he suggested a clear with high UV resistance used for aircraft....problem being it's almost impossible to get a semi-gloss finish and difficult to access. I did try it on one job but am hesitant to get into using it much deeper unless I get the results...semi-gloss and over 1-shot etc. As mentioned I do have several weeks until I need to start into this part of the present job and will post more on what I decide when that happens. Bob Peach did get hold of me and he is/has used Dupont 2000 series. More I don't know just yet but again will return here as this info becomes available. I guess it goes without saying that I've been snooping into a half dozen or so and you've just seen the topic discussion of one. Like I say...more soon I promise. Cheers till soon.
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Rick, The Epifanes looks interesting. Do you have experience with it? I would love to find a brushable, one-part product that will hold up for 3 years without recoating - but that's too much to ask.
-------------------- Jean Shimp Shimp Sign & Design Co. Jacksonville Beach, Fl Posts: 1266 | From: Jacksonville Beach, Fl. USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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Your post was very informative and I look forward to seeing how your present test turn out.
It seems there are so many products entering the market I retrieat to my standard products. I've tried the water based top coats. They seem rather shallow but with enough UV protection they may be ok. For me, any top coat must be rich and deep in color.
Please let us know what you come up with. You're deciaions are of interst to me.
-------------------- Joe Crumley Norman Sign Company 2200 Research Park Blvd. Norman, OK 73069 Posts: 1428 | From: 2200 Research Park Blvd. | Registered: Sep 2001
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