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A few days ago, I posted some wood-framed aluminum signs. But the project we're working on now, is made entirely of alumium. We began by designing a layout and a diagram for the frame on the computer, establishing the right angles, etc. then we cut the pieces for the frame with an abrasive-disk saw. We then labeled and printed a diagram for the welding shop; a shipyard to be exact. Turns out they didn't get it as square as I would have liked but, it was useable. We have a bottle of Argon gas and an aluminum mig-welding rig but, I didn't have time to learn on this one...maybe later. I had all the welds ground off flat on the face sides, to facilitate the .040 aluminum skin.
The top part of the frame is 2" x 4" alumium while the bottom is heavy guage 3"x3". We used 3x3 because we wanted the "pedestal" part set back from the faces, and we used heavy gauge for strength. After a good cleaning, I sprayed the frame with a self etching primer and two coats of bronze paint.
Next, we used a foot shear to cut the pieces for the "cornice" out of bronze .040 aluminum....
Marked them for cutting and bending...
then notched them on the corner notching machine...
We bent the flanges with a box brake...
A box brake can not only bend long pieces of metal but, because the fingers can be removed and arranged in different combinations, you can bend various sized sides at right angles to each other...
The .040 alumium faces were cut out, and after the reflective vinyl was applied, we installed with pop rivets. The two flanged cornice pieces can be seen on the table at the left of the photo.
After the two faces were installed, two sheet metal flanged pieces, we made earlier, were then installed into the cornice. On Monday, we will bend a piece to fit into the concave shape, and the sign will be ready to install.
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Wayne we have always cut aluminum with a miter saw. or radial arm saw. Just like you would cut wood. A little wax on the blade helps, or you can use anti spatter spray too. There are blades that work best for aluminum but any good carbide blade will work if your only making a few dozen cuts a week. I've fabricated in 3 different shops and on my own and have always done it like this. We use VHB tape to hold the .040 to the frame(raw aluminum frame). Let the .040 run past the frame buy .125 to.25, and use a router with a flush trimming bit, keep it lubed by waxing the edge of the sheet. No fasteners showing, and a clean fit. Then prime and paint. Your sign is lookin good!
[ May 09, 2010, 07:57 PM: Message edited by: Dana Stanley ]
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Thanks for the cutting tips Dana. We'll have to try that.
Dale, I used to bend with two pieces of angle iron and some clamps and cut everything with a sabresaw. But I lucked up finding these tools on Ebay. The most expensive tool, the 52" stomp shear, for instance, was only $300 and they were all essentially new. The paint wasn't even scuffed on the foot petal. We also bent the little concave thingy at the top of this sign on a 52" slip roll machine(not shown)
I know the rivets look unsightly but, we tried looking for some bronze rivets with no luck. We even drilled rows of holes in a board, inserted 92 rivets, primed and painted them bronze. But when we tried to pop them in the sign, the paint came off.
[ May 10, 2010, 02:37 PM: Message edited by: Wayne Webb ]
-------------------- Wayne Webb Webb Signworks Chipley, FL 850.638.9329 wayne@webbsignworks.com Posts: 7403 | From: Chipley,Florida,United States | Registered: Oct 1999
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Like I said the best so you don't see fasteners is VHB tape! I have seen it used on some really large panels of Dibond, or plain aluminum and it holds it on in the most extreme conditions. Consider that it holds mouldings on vehicles that go upto 160 mph. That's why it cost $50.00 a roll.
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