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This two sided sign has a PT wood frame and will be mounted between two 4x6's. It's 3M gold metallic vinyl on .040 aluminum, mounted with stainless steel self drilling screws. I popped the frame together with galvanized nails from a nail gun, and then put galvanized screws at each stud. The studs in the cornice at the top were cur at angles and covered with aluminum strips so all the wood is completely covered with metal. Michael Boone showed me how to do these a few years ago. Thanks Mikey!
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Ok, here it is...7' x4' PT frame, aluminum enclosed. $1480 installed I tried to talk them out of the phone number but, I guess they needed it on there.
This client had asked if there was one of these type signs he could go look at. I told him where one was and did so. Well, as soon as we finished installing this one today, and returned to the shop, the owner of that sign had left a message on my answering machine; they're ordering another one for another location. These are not dimensional and not that fancy but, they're easy to do and it all pays the bills.
[ May 04, 2010, 11:20 PM: Message edited by: Wayne Webb ]
-------------------- Wayne Webb Webb Signworks Chipley, FL 850.638.9329 wayne@webbsignworks.com Posts: 7403 | From: Chipley,Florida,United States | Registered: Oct 1999
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Looks great. Don't diminish the significance of the job just because it's not carved, guilded, and airbrushed. Some customers have surf and turf budgets, some don't..... Personally, I might have painted the screw heads on the faces black, but that's just me.
It's neat, clean and professional.
Job well done!
-------------------- Ed The Signwerks 1951 SR 254 Orangeville, Pa. Posts: 199 | From: Orangeville, Pa. USA | Registered: Dec 2000
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I keep a can of acid etch primer on the shelf all the time. I use it alot for painting bikes primarily, but it's also handy to hit the heads of screws and/or rivets that are on the faces of some jobs because paint won't stick to bare aluminum or stainless in the long run. Then touch 'em up with a little 1 Shot or Acrylic enamel and you're good to go.
[ May 04, 2010, 05:08 PM: Message edited by: Ed Gregorowicz ]
-------------------- Ed The Signwerks 1951 SR 254 Orangeville, Pa. Posts: 199 | From: Orangeville, Pa. USA | Registered: Dec 2000
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Wayne that is a sign that many customers could afford and at that price they get a lot for their money. Could you explain a bit more on the frame design and how you capped the edges with aluminum. This is a project I would like to try myself. thanks for sharing it with the letterheads.
-------------------- Tony Lucero Eagle Graphics Waterford, MI www.eaglegph.com Posts: 305 | From: Waterford, MI, USA | Registered: Apr 2000
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I saved time cutting out the shape by first adding a 3/4" strip around the 'cornice' part of the the plot file. So after cutting it out on the plotter, all the vinyl was applied to the panel before even cutting the metal. This gave me an exact cut guide while eliminating the need for making a pattern for the metal cutting , and it eliminated alignment problems. I just applied the vinyl to the metal, left the app tape on to protect it, and cut it out with a sabresaw.
The frame is pretty simple. I used a mitre saw to cut all the 2x4's and built the basic rectangle, then applied acrylic latex caulk/adhesive on all the 2x4 surfaces, laid the skin on one side, pulled the frame square, and fastened with stainless screws. Then I flipped it over and did the other side the same way.
Next I stood it up and 'stick built' the top 'cornice'. Cut the top of each of these at the necessary angle, then rounded them slightly on a stationary edge sander. Or you could just use a portable belt sander or rasp; whatever works. Because if you dont round them, the metal is going to buckle in when you screw the cover strips on. After installing the top of the frame, screws were inserted at the top of each to keep it from moving laterally. I then cut strips of the same black.040 aluminum on a foot sheer, bent it over the top and fastened with stainless screws.
-------------------- Wayne Webb Webb Signworks Chipley, FL 850.638.9329 wayne@webbsignworks.com Posts: 7403 | From: Chipley,Florida,United States | Registered: Oct 1999
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That's a pretty neat way to do them, Wayne. I've done some kinda similar, but I always made my arches from MDO.
I was just curious as to how you seal the edges, where the faces and the strips come together on the edges of the sign (to keep water from getting in to the wood). We usually put a bead of silicone on the edge; then put aluminum angle extrusion around the perimeter of the sign. The radius areas become a bit more tricky. Just wondering how you tackled this.
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Dale, I completely caulk the perimeter of the frame and the studs in the middle on the rectangular ones. I also prime and paint all exposed wood, for cosmetic purposes. This is the 1st one I did, in November of 2000, and it still looks like new... But on the signs with the top 'cornice' thingies, I haven't caulked any of the cornice part. I figured it was pressure treated, was made to get wet, and needed to 'breathe' anyway; I have one of these which is 3 1/2 years old and it still looks great. It's the one which sold the attorney. I noticed that a competitor had wrapped the cornice one of his with plywood and the paint started peeling off it right away.
[ May 05, 2010, 05:41 PM: Message edited by: Wayne Webb ]
-------------------- Wayne Webb Webb Signworks Chipley, FL 850.638.9329 wayne@webbsignworks.com Posts: 7403 | From: Chipley,Florida,United States | Registered: Oct 1999
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![[Smile]](smile.gif)
These are not dimensional and not that fancy but, they're easy to do and it all pays the bills. 
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