posted
laying out a few ideas for my son's 2000 chevy Im going to have a local paint shop do a split paint job and im going to do some tribal stencil masks for the hood roof and deck lid my question is after we bury all this in the clear I want to run a small 3/16 pinstripe along all the edges Sadly my brushs have been on the backburner for a while so im going to cheat and use finess striping mask ive used it in the past with good results. any advice or refreshers or what you would do. My paint choice is one shot can you comment on thinning,palleting,flow enhansers, what brush or sword anything? this is going to be a father and son project and he is pumped I want to get it right and I know theres alot of good talent on this site so thanks in advance Maurice
posted
Good Morning Maurice, if you are going to clear first then stripe then 1 shot is Fine, be sure to add a little hardener, just a little, If your going to use tape then any good lettering brush should work fine, as small as a #2 0r #3 for outlines. Marg from Canadian Sign Crafters can help with any thing you may need... they are in the Merchants area.
-------------------- "Keep Positive"
SIGNS1st. Neil Butler Paradise, NF Posts: 6277 | From: St. John's NF Canada | Registered: Mar 1999
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posted
one shot is the absolute worst choice of paint to go with, if this is a high dollar paint job you will be better off sticking to automotive paints. preferably clearing over your pintstriping. IF you pinstripe after you clear I would go with a nice single stage paint. stay away from that one shot crap
-------------------- You ever notice how easily accessible people are when they are requiring your services but once they get invoice you can't reach them anymore
posted
Or put a little hardener in the one shot like Neil said.
-------------------- John Byrd Ball Ground, Georgia 770-735-6874 http://johnbyrddesign.com so happy I gotta sit on both my hands to keep from wavin' at everybody! Posts: 741 | From: Ball Ground, Georgia, USA | Registered: May 1999
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-------------------- Jane Diaz Diaz Sign Art 628 W. Lincoln Ave. Pontiac, Il. 61764 815-844-7024 www.diazsignart.com Posts: 4102 | From: Pontiac, IL USA | Registered: Feb 1999
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posted
Those House of colors are great as well as Jane pointed out. I've used 1 shot with hardener with great success, even 1Shot right out of the can works, not as good as it used to be, but with a little hardener it works well. The HOK Dries a lot faster and is a little trickier to use, it just takes some getting used to.
-------------------- "Keep Positive"
SIGNS1st. Neil Butler Paradise, NF Posts: 6277 | From: St. John's NF Canada | Registered: Mar 1999
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posted
I'm not sure exactly what you are planning here. Could you provide a sketch or two? It sounds like you are wanting to stripe around tribal designs and separate a two tone, correct?
I would agree with Bruce and say the best way to do this job is to stripe before the clear is applied. Depending on the color you want for your pinstripe, a base coat may work OK. Some cover better than others. HOK striping urethane would be a better choice in my opinion. If, for whatever reason, you need to stripe on top of the clear, than One Shot will work, not my choice, but it will work. No reducers, straight out of the can for what you are doing. Penetrol can be used as a flow extender if needed.
Mt biggest concern with this project is using Finess to outline the tribal designs. I want to go on record and say we have been using Finessee for over twenty five years and it is a great product. We use it on a daily basis and we probably use more of this product than anybody on this site, but to try to outline a tribal design with it is going to be a nightmare. If you have any really tight curves in your design you are going to have trouble getting the tape to follow them. The biggest nightmares are going to be the points, that is where two lines come together. These are going to have to be done by hand with a brush that you say is on the backburner or you are going to have to lift and cut where the tape overlaps. Depending on your design, this could be a TON of work...not to mention the potential for a bunch of bleed outs. Spraying the outline color on the edge of the tribal mask first, backtaping over that then spraying the tribal color would be a lot less work in my opinion. Finesse will work great for the two tone seperation.
-------------------- George Perkins Millington,TN. goatwell@bigriver.net
"I started out with nothing and still have most of it left"
posted
Hey Neil, I have a few old cans of One Shot. I don't have much experience with it, but I am interested. I was going to strip my son's scooter with it (using mask cuz I don't trust my hands these days). Is there a One Shot hardener? or do you use a different brand? Again no experience here, just wanna try it.
posted
Even with the 1-Shot hardener you are taking a chance that it will not lift. This is because 1-Shot is oil based and the hardener as is called really isn't as compatible as one may think. 1-Shot will rise where HoK will not.
HoK is the way to go if its to be clear coated. Check out my website which has helped many persons just like yourself since it was put up over 13 years ago.
There are many tricks explained and remember, nothing used is cheating as its just another tool.
If Finesse is to be used, always remove the Finesse right after you paint that particular panel so as to let the paint flow out. It will dry and leave a sharper but not recommended edge if you don't. Always use the catalyst when using HoK whether clear coating or not as this will help to stop the clear coat from attacking the stripe.
posted
thanks everybody . I may just do all the layout and see if I can find someone to stipe it before the clear sometimes its better to pay a bit and get it right. as for the tribal its going to be a very simple clean design and a straight color split top of dor handle. ive only got some sketch book drawings and I dont know how to post yet as im new to the site. this is going to be a late fall or winter project so I have time to keep my options open Thanks again Maurice
posted
Maurice, whatever you do, don't run the split into the body contour or convex or super close to the door handles unless all these parts are removed and left removed when it is striped.
Don't give up, check my site out and you'll get inspiration, ask anyone
-------------------- HotLines Joey Madden - pinstriping since 1952 'Perfection, its what I look for and what I live for'
posted
thanks Neil the more I think about it im going to stick to the one shot i've got stuff I painted around here outside that still looks good the one thing being Im not looking for a autorama type job here just good enough to give my son some incentive to keep the truck out of the bushes LOL. with a mild custom look. I have a good freind to do the base coat and clear and we are going to do all the wet sanding taping prep and mask so to keep the cost down. the plan is the truck is already dark burgandy metallic going to shot the top with black metallic base then clear. let it sit a couple weeks then Ill stripe it and any mistakes or bleeds can be wiped up if needed. the stipe is going to be maroon with a slite hint of silver met kind of like a ghost stipe 3/16. OK so if I mix a 1/2 cup one shot how much hardener, and reducer would you suggest. what do you pallet on, and I also know the fine people at Canadian signcrafters . thnks have a great day.
p.s time to do some test panels and get rid of the 45yr old shakes
I got back into this a few years ago, and If you were able to stripe years ago, with a little practice you should be able to pull this off with a Proper Pinstriping brush like a sword. But it takes practice, the one thing about 1 shot, yes you can just wipe it off if need be. Just a drop or 2 of hardener is all you need in an ounce, it sets up a lot quicker than straight one shot so use a little at a time. As for pallets, I just use an old glossy magazine, just rip off the page when it stats to get funky....
-------------------- "Keep Positive"
SIGNS1st. Neil Butler Paradise, NF Posts: 6277 | From: St. John's NF Canada | Registered: Mar 1999
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